Has anyone used Old School Flake?

I know HOK is preferred, but OSF has a color I want and HOK no longer makes. How does it hold up? Any problems?

http://www.oldschoolflake.com/index.html

 

MikeO has used some.Drop him a line.
Somebody here complained their OSF had lumps in it.
Don't know if this is a consistant problem,
but I imagine you could sift it if you had to.

 

Sorry for the slight hijackage.

HOK....happen to have a link to where I could view their flake colors.
OSF doesn't have what I want. Need copper. Like a late 50's chevy copper.

I was checking out HOK's webpage and couldn't find anything but shirts and **** like that.

 

Hijacking is a crime, bub.

Ned Plympton: Are we being attacked by hijackers?
Steve Zissou: Out here we call them "pirates".

 

I used it on my Buick, had no problems.

 

while we're on the subject, does anyone still have a can of the first pearl paint that actually used mother of pearl that was crushed into the mixture?


lead paint rules to

 

get some fish scales.............crush em up.

i was watching a DVD on Barris kustoms of the 50's they were mentioning how they did that.

 

it ****s in my opinion. hok is better, but honestly METALFLAKE brand flake is some of the best stuff i've ever used. there is a website but i don't recall the address right now. keep a check on ebay as it's a good choice. alot of the large bags of flake that get sold on there is actually boat shop leftovers and such and a majority of it is metalflake brand as they sold lots of it in bulk. lots of old powder pearls show up on the bay to. i keep a check and usually email the sellers as they pop up to see if they have any of the stuff i'm after like crushed gl*** or diamond dust. not much luck there. i know someone who has 2 jars of crushed gl*** but he won't give any of it up. diamond dust is even harder to find. i saw 2 different cars painted with it when i was a kid and man it hasn't left my memory yet. lots of money but the effect is amazing...ken....

 

Again, not to hijack, but I have recently come across quite a bit of the reflective stuff that the road commision mixes into their paint for painting roads and road signs. ANyone know if that would work in automotive paint? I have enough (several 55 gallon drums of it, if it hasn't been s****ped yet!) that I could try it and see, but I just thought I'd ask here first...

Then I also found some gold dust (about 10 Oz), some red bronze dust (about 4 oz), and some diamond dust (about 6 oz) that my dad had from back when he used to paint cars...

 

not sure what the stuff you have the motherload of is. if it holds up for sign work and stuff it must meet UV standards of some sort. what form is it in? i've seen some clear reflective base for doing sign work but don't know much about it.

and diamond dust man get it and worship it. 6oz is actually alot as you use very little...ken....

 

I once used the gl*** beads that they use for painting road signs on a paint job. It was a white car that the owner wanted a "metallic" look on it. Any metallics added to, or over the white looked like dust or dirt, not the effect he wanted. Pearl was too subtle for this guy. I tried to get some crushed gl***, but it's not available any more. Sid Moses at Seelig Custom turned me onto "sign beads" which didn't make the white look dirty, but reflected light, similar to a metallic flake. Worked well on the white car. Don't know if it would look good on colors, though, but it's worth a try! It did tend to want to clog up the gun, same as bigger flake, so I had to keep the gun moving, shaking it, and keeping a couple of nuts in the cup to keep the particles in suspension.

 

I just helped a guy work a some harley tins for a big show around here and the owner of the bike wanted that **** on his bike, what a fu--in mess. You have to buy their gun because you have to dry spray it, you shoot some clear on for a tack coat and while its wet you blow on the flake then you clear over it, well the **** looks like lumpy oatmeal so you have to put a **** load of clear over it to fill all the lumps and bumps before you can color sand it and buff it. I'd try anything but that stuff. Pat

 

WHY does it ****?

Lehr, their site doesn't say you have to use their gun (but it sounded like a good idea... oatmeal doesn't). Why couldn't you just use it like HOK flake?

and this may be a really dumb question, but isn't flake just flake, no matter who makes iT? I mean, shouldn't it spray the same? Why do some guys say it's fine and others say it ****s? spraying technique?

I wanted to use OSF because they have a color I need that HOK no longer makes.

Thanks for all the advice

 

Well as I have said in a post a month back or so, I LIKE OSF. It worked awesome on my Pontiac as well as the toolbox I painted, they have some good color selection and a few things others dont have as well as being very well priced. I think it is all in what a person may be used to as to where complaints come from. A person has to realize that with any flake, you will use a fair amount of clear unless you go with a fine grain size of flake. I have brought it in and sold it up here for 2 years with nobody calling me back to complain. The way it was shot on my car and my buddys entire lowrider was to mix it "as per instruction on jar" with clear, and spray it. Using their gun is just an option, not a mandatory thing. If its so bad, I would have thought his painter would have complained, not won Best Paint at the last car major show we had.

 

You dont HAVE to use there gun,Ive used it it worked good BUT I wouldnt want to use it on a whole car or even just a roof ,For 1 you dont get the same deep effect as you do with layers of flake in clear For 2 flake goes everywhere when your sprayin it and when you are using there gun the flake is dry so it really goes everywhere. I like there gun for small stuff it seems to use less flake and is easy to clean/change colors.

 

I agree with you there, and is why it was mixed with clear when the roof on my car was done as well as my buddys entire car. It certainly has a deep look when shot over black then cleared smooth. Mine was put over a black base, and is purple, and my buddys ride was done in a teal green and the flake he chose is very close to that same color, used less flake that way on his, but doesnt look as deep as when over a black base.

 

Something I think people forget is -I use SATA spray guns and hate Sharp spray guns but I know people who love Sharp and hate SATA and there paint jobs still look good so why would flake or paint be any different ?? I like SATA because thats what Im used to, when someone uses the same flake all the time they get used to it and it becomes what they like, I use more HOK than anything but thats just because I get a good deal on it

 

That there is exactly what I have been saying as well. I am sure its all in what technique a person is used to, or what brand they are used to, not that the flake itself is bad, just that it is different from what one person may be used to compared to another.

 

isn't metal flake like 80 dollars for a small/few ounces of it?

or is that just the house of color stuff?

 

I get i think 6 oz. jars (the bigger jar HOK sells, whatever size) for about $40 after tax....no matter what color

 

Up here you will spend at LEAST 40 Canadian for 2oz jar of HOK, at least, I know guys who have paid more then that up here for that HOK flake, where as OSF is about 50-60 bux Canadian for a 6oz jar. So for me OSF is a more popular choice here.

 

The stuff we used was a dry flake real big flake it wouldnt spray through a regular gun, the gl*** jar that the flake comes in screws to the bottom of the gun they sell. Old school might have different styles of flake but the stuff we used was a *****. This flake is so big even if you mixed it in some clear you couldnt find a fluid tip big enough to spray it.

 

So rather than creating a whole other thread, I chose to ask my question here. I bought about 8 actual large mother of pearl shells. Cleaned and polished. Ive heard talk about using actual mother of pearl in the mixture. I want to figure out the process as far as the consistency of the flake. Would the mother of pearl flakes (once ground down) be mixed into a clear? Anyone know anything about this method?

 

So rather than creating a whole nother thread with its own ***le that will draw users to it based on them having interest or an opinion on the topic, I decided I'll post here, where my new topic will get lost in the original topic.

Start a new thread.

A. Because I'm interested.

B. You probably won't get an answer to your question. Instead you'll get people posting about OSF that only read the original post. Unless they happen to see my mini rant and then get swallowed by this yet new topic I have just brought up.

Good luck!

 

I've used Old School flake a couple of times (if that's still what we're talking about). It's quality stuff, so is the Roth Flake. I've never met a flake I didn't like, though, so I might not be the most objective. Personally, I'm over colored flake, if you want it to turn out EXACTLY the color you want get either silver or gold and start playing with candy, you'll be much happier with your results.

 

I don't remember who made the very first mother-of-pearl's, but then came Murano pearl, which was essentially the last pearl that actually looked like real mother-of-pearl. We can put men on the moon, but can't recreate the look of the old mother-of-pearl's. Go figure.