water in oil and oil in water what are the causes??!!??

echo echo...hello

 

Can't tell for sure. But does #6 have water evidence into cylinder ? Under pressure it doesn't take much to pull water from a bad gasket or improper torqued head or end warped straight six head.

 

Just for future reference, if the cylinder was cracked you would likely see water shooting out the exhaust.

Ask me how I know????!!!!

Likely just a head gasket, but I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

 

head gaskets /or posible sabatage if it were a nissan 4 cylinder the timing chain will saw through the back of the chain cover/pump sump area when worn loose causeing that effect ,if this were an old 80's ****** head obviously the head would be toast
normally nearly always oil isnt nessesarily preasnt in the oil for a common head gasket to be bad most of the time they leak the combustion presshure into the water causeing hot pokets which in turn blow the water pressure sky high sooo.
like they said above are you shur thats? oil in the radiater or is it trans fluid?
one more point when a head presents itself warped the leak will be crosswise from compression not endwise over the lenth obviously bolts would draw the leanthwise bow out just not the tight crossbow ie between the cylinder areas

not every body can installl a new head gasket if it tightend wrong then thars a proublem thanks and ..goodday

 

Apart from all of the other replies about the head gasket gone and cracks in the block / head etc. which i agree with , the fact that your compression is down to 80psi suggests that your rings may have had it as well.

To investigate this you can give the engine a "wet" compression test by putting a couple of squirts of oil in the cylinder via the spark plug hole. Wind it over a few times to distribute the oil around and do the test. Also, make sure you have throttle wide open to allow full charge of air to enter. You can get a false reading sometimes if you don't. If the compression comes up then you have problems with your rings. That means engine rebuild.

 

Looking at the picture that engine has been HOT. Evidence is the gauling on the cylinder walls from the pistons. #5 cylinder looks real bad. Also it also looks like the rings have been leaking also as the top of the pistins look "clean" around the edges.

 

how much blow by does the engine have? excessive amount can cause oil contamination you describe, but not in the radiator. also, you said that there was no thermostat. that can also cause a sludge build up problem due to conditions previously stated.

 

Salad?

Water in the crankcase could be poor ventilation.

 

took the head to the machine shop to get magnafluxed
no cracks and the head isnt warped
i kinda suspect the headbolts not being tight, i did take them off with a 3/8 hand ratchet, they werent super tight
i am gonna put the head on tonight with a new gasket and torque it down to specs
i know the bolts are torque to yield so im gonna give that a try if that dosent work i guess ill put a 302 in it

 

Run a tap down all the headbolt holes before repacing the head. Threads with **** build up down in the bottom of the hole will give false torque readings.

 

another good point..I dont know enough about this engine to say..but are the, or any of the head bolts open to the water jacket?..if so some copper permatex is in order...or just use it anyways ..sure cant hurt eh?

 

That's really helpful.

 

What did the old gasket look like? Sometimes you can see a "trail" where something was leaking. Go with sealer on any bolts that p*** through the water jacket, clean up the bolt holes as suggested, wire brush all the head bolts too.

From there, re***emble and torque in sequence and give it a shot. You're only out some sweat equity and whatever the gaskets and head inspection ran you. Toss in a dose of Solder Seal Block Saver to ward off evil spirits.

Bob

 

Does it have blind boltholes for the cylinder head.I have seen a head milled to much causing head bolts to bottom out without pulling the head down causing leaking headgasket.

 

well head is all done

shorter headbolts

new water pump and t stat

new headgasket set

new antifreeze and 2 oil changes

runs like a friggin top

once the system burped ran at 190 had it idling for 15 min

im happy now

 

Cool deal. The only way water in the oil and oil into water is a leak from an oil pressure galley into cooling p***age. when engine is running oil pressure is high causing leak into cooling system, when car is hot and shut off, cooling system pressure leaks water into oil galley.

Hopefully you found it with the loose head, and now drive the **** out of her.

 

Cool beans, man! Another HAMB happy ending....

 

I bought my first 59 ford in 1978 and had the same problems. I could change the oil, and it would be good for a couple of weeks. Talked to an old mechanic and he said replace the thermostat. It solved all problems Like you had. You said it did not have a thermostat in it. The motor can't get hot enough to get rid of moisture.

 

You will get a little condensation in the crankcase ifthe engine does not get up to operating temp....But how do you explain the oil in the radiator?

 

Great point about the head bolts.
I had a Jeep once that did the same thing.
I found out later that one of the head bolts had to be installed with sealer or it would leak.
Sure enough, that solved it.