Hot Rods IHRS's latest frame build;)

Just a group of pictures I took tonight of this frame we just got done building... new rails, original cross members and custom built reinforcing plates...











Thank you,
Matt Lesky

 

Looks good Matt. What is the origin of the frame liners over the rearend? some of your new products? Also what is the destination, hot rod, stock restoration? Looks like a stock '32 rear crossmember, right?

Frank

 

Frank, It'll be a hop up. Mid Thirties

As far as marketing goes and parts line stuff, it would be better for us to offer the outside reinforcing plates to restorer's and early frame folk as they would be less likely to be replacing the early rear cross member with a later one... In other words, no.hahaha

This will be getting the running board holes too.....and painted black.

 

Great looking job Matt. What frame rails are you using. The rear reinforcing plates are an improvement over the late '32 frame rear cross member plates. Nice work. The FOGGER

 

They are actually exact replacements from the original late frame we have in the shop now, The rails are Shadow Rods (engineered from original Ford blueprints, we have a copy!) two piece rails, Welded well (tig and pro) and finished off with a body file. The inside of the rails had to be cleaned up as well, the radius' of the frame rails upper and lower flange, where the frame has shape, is welded and as such, had to be smoothed out for a stamped/factory look.

Edit: We added the original holes, except for the body mount and cowl mount holes...all the other holes are our's.

 

A usual Matt, it looks awesome! I definitely am taking notes for some reinforcements incase I have to cut my frame. Looks great!

 

I personally would not take anything from these pictures! Other than the fact it is a blatant copy of an original, this frame is super weak and needs box'in if it get's any power. Do Not build your hot rod frame like this one, build it stronger.


Thank you,
Matt

 

I was referring to the stamped "fishplates" that shit inside the rear of the frame. may be something to consider but none the less that frame looks beautiful.

 

Are all of your rivets structural?

 

Right on dude, that isn't stamped....Welded and ground "Wilbanks" style...

 

All the rivets in the frame mentioned and shown in this thread are real.

There are no fake rivet's in the making of this movie!hahahha

 

Wow!!

 

Nice, very nice! You may say it's weak, but it looks like a really good representation of a stock '32 frame!

You are kidding right?

Tim D.

 

Tim,

It is an exact copy and no, I'm not kidding!, send me your used roloc's!! I'll pay shipping!!

 

What the hell ya gonna do with a bunch of little plastic nubs?

Tim D.

 

well, if you have plastic nubs, I pass...

 

He's a real nub guy... They jiggle better...

Nice work as usual...!

 

Here are some of the process pictures of those plates...

 

Nice work! I had some questions about that, but now I see. No tricks, just super-clean workmanship!

Tim D.

 

ok...I'll bite, what's a roloc?

 

sanding discs.... looks good Matt

 

Grinding discs with an easy turn screw mount.You can see them laying on the table

 

Awesome frame!!!

 

Glad that you asked because I thought I was going to have to......

 

I bet you have some opinions on the repro rails available these days. Obviously you used Shadow Rods this time. What do you think is the best? I'm looking for originality, meaning shape the same as Henry's. I guess a C over the rearend is OK though, if a certain rail might have it built in.

 

Frame looks good. Question on the rolocs. I use them a lot myself. Do you stampcut(how?) out new paper and glue them on? With what? I tried this and they just blew off. Any tips would be appreciated as those suckers are spendy but necessary.

 

Why yes I do have an opinion on rails!!hahaa

Shadow rods are the closest to original, to the point they used the original blue prints from Ford to engineer them, down side is they are two piece and they are stamped and welded at the rear sweep and the front frame horn, meaning if you want them to appear as oringinal you have some grinding and touch up welding to do.

ASC, we haven't used in years, the steel they use is like butter that has been sitting on the counter for a couple days and the reveal is not the proper shape. Not to mention it took us about five hours to get them in our jig. (Our jig's were build to factory specs.)

J.W. Rod Garage are very good, we use them all the time, they have the majority of the original holes (fender/running board), and a stamped c-notch. the only problem with Weimer rails is they started trimming the upper and lower flanges so that when you flush mount boxing plates you get the 2 inch flange like original. That isn't a problem for the majority of frame builders, but we rarely flush mount plates...

Welded up rails are a dead give away from 30 feet...

We have researched and done the math to determine the proper rivet sizes and length's and buck them in the direction that Ford bucked them, from the inside out...

As for the roloc's, we do not try to glue new pads to them, we take a three inch disc and cut them allowing the disc to roll into a radius, not cutting into a radius to get a nice stamped look. So, send your used ones to me, I'll pay shipping PLUS $.xx each!!

 

I don't want to give away all my secrets, but try ebay for rolocs. cheap(er)

 

I've also noticed the funky trim job on the ends of the Weimer rails. I wonder if a guy could order them without the trimming? You're kinda close to them aren't you? Maybe they'd do a special run for you.

 

Matt, Thanks on the tip for Rolocs. I use them quite alot. Not sure if I met you at the Roadster show the year before last. I think I met your dad. My dad has done some S-W gauge panel work for you guys in the past. He's the "Gauge King" of the West Coast(Terry Seaholm). Love your work and pm me the hot tip on the Rolocs. Thanks