Have a 28 tudor sedan, stock frame and am adding 36 rearend with spring behind, the spring is much lower of course, so to accomodate, will do a mild step, 4"-5" or so and go back the 7.5" to locate the axle in the original position so wheels stay in right spot. So the question is, Do you have to cut out the floor structure in the back to allow the step to come up, and do you have to pinch the frame at all to allow it to come inside? The rear will hav an open drive conversion and be mated to a 350/350 combo, read many posts about the step or Z, just don't see the "full story" and what I need to consider in addition to the actual step.
Wouldn't it be a lot easier to get a set of those steel spring hangers that weld on top of the axle? That's what I'm doing for my roadster per the instructions in the Bishop-Tardel book. If you do a frame height step in the rear with a reversed eye spring and move the main leaf up in the stack you can lower the rear of the car 7-8 inches over stock. This way you don't have to worry about lengthening your ch***is to accomodate the spring behind the axle setup. Also any bodywork to your rear floor should be minimal. In the book, the biggest job was cutting a hole in the floor for the rear crossmember and covering it with a crossmember cover from the floor of a sedan. If you're not familliar with "How to build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" do yourself a favor and pick up a copy. It's basically the bible for this kind of stuff.
I also have a '28 sedan with a stock frame. However, I'm using a stock spring -minus a few leaves (in the stock rear crossmember) and put about a 3" kick in the frame to bring the *** end down. I used the procedure shown in the Bishop/Tardel AV8 book. I had to cut into each inside edge of the rear body subframe about 2" to 3" in and about 15" long so the frame would fit up inside. The 15" length was necessary as my upper rear shock mounts come off the back outer ends of the frame and I needed extra rearward clearance for shock installation/removal. I then boxed in the cutouts with some 18 gauge to get the strength back. I also had to cut off the rear crossmember outer ends (that have the rearmost body mount holes in them) to make them flush with the outsides of the frame side rails. I've included a pic. Sorry it's a little fuzzy! Hope this helps! Good luck with your build! Regards, Dave.
Lucky77, where could I get some of the steel spring hangers to weld on top of the axle? I'm kinda at the same place right now with my A. Gonna use a '39 rear. Thanks
Here is a link for spring on top hangers. http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/2831/2019_springmounts.htm
Ahem, build it the way you want to, but a 350 engine will make toast of that '36 rear end unless you're real careful.
use the stock A spring in the behind location.On the later rear. Reuse the rear crossmember. Doing the Z and adding 7 1/2 at the same time. (pictured 32,A spring and crossmember,1940 rear)
VAPHEAD is correct, rather than build another crossmember, just use your stock one, Z the frame and extend it. Here is a picture of an A frame on 32 rails with spring behind axle..........visual aide. You will have to cut out part of the floor anyway for the Z but don't see any reason you would have to pinch the frame in the rear as it should fit inside the body.
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