My Falcon ran 13.5's with a tiny 302 with a 600 carb and 4 spd stick (with a clutch that was slipping bad in 4th and stinking after every run) ,with plain street tires and only 3.55 gears on 87 octane gas.It weighed 2800 lbs with me in it.If that 390 in a little feather weight "A " cant get in the thirteens (with moderate traction) with an automatic trans theres something wrong .Im no Ronnie Sox with a 4spd ,but im better than most id say .Good luck at the track ...
I meant if the guy has a fresh engine, with cast pistons and not the forged ones, he could easily damage his engine if he tries to rawhide it off the bat. You don't break in a fueler engine, its designed to run with predetermined tolerances. Top fuel only has one guage that the driver can see, and several trouble lights that can warn the driver of impending disaster. The Guage is oil pressure.......when a engine costs, oh, lets say, upwards of $200,000.00, you wanna save it if you can. If a major malfunction happens, with only a 4 second ride time......everythings usually toast anyway. Due to advances in ignitions, and computers, ET 's have dropped when folks said there was no more speed to be had. Charged for a oildown?????????????????????? Yea............
hey Buzzard, you'd be suprised the stuff thats come loose, twisted or bent/ toasted when you tear one down...................Ha!
-----When was the last time that you heard a top fuel driver say " I have to brake in my engine" ????----- You know why fuelers don't have tach's? Guess what their top RPM is? WAY TOO DAWM HIGH. The only 2 things a top fuel driver worrys about, breaking loose within the 1st 60 feet, and their parachute malfunctioning....................
You can take that to the bank. Reality has a cruel way of putting everything in perspective. After that you have two choices: 1. live with it and enjoy your ride (the best choice) 2. Hock everything you have in pursuit of a dream (the choice usually taken if your ego is in charge.) Frank
I run 2.77 in my 8 inch (open diff)31 inch tall tyres 285/75/15`s the trans is a c4 with a shift kit and the motor is a 8-1 compression 2v headed cleveland 302 with a 6v/71 blower topped off with a pair of 600 edelbrocks last year i got a best of 12.7 @108mph She wouldent rev over 4000 rpm (had coil problems ) The car is an old jago 5 window 32b Your 2.40`s in the rear will hold you back on the track .Even thou on the road it`s a bit like mine 4000rpm on the motorway is 135mph (not that ive ever done that ) The thing you really need to ask Yourself is how much track time are you going to put in compared to road time ? Not shure how far up the gear box you`ll get. The thing you want is to be in the power band of the motor (if its not to built about 5500rpm if its a monster 65-8000rpm or what ever it rev to )in your one to one gear as you blat past the finish line . 4.11 are a night mare to live with on the street .Althou a good mate of mine runs them behind a 700 box and he runs mid 15s ,but drives the wheels off it and gets good miles with the over drive .But that said most 4.11 end cars are screaming at 70 mph Our ids Pop was hurendouse with 4.11`s in the back Most of my mates that run quick run 3.5`s seams to be the good compromise. Other factors to think about are suspension set ups ie. does it spin up on the road real easy (unload the rears) or does it try and throw the fronts up (loading the rears) all this said THE BULL **** STOPS WHEN THE GREEN LIGHT POP`S. take it to the track and have a ball and just remeber that most SUPER CARS are in high 13`s to mid 11`s and your in your little old jalopy kickin ****
Just ran some basic numbers through my Desktop Dyno program for fun, it tends to be a bit optimistic. Engine wise is probably pretty close at 334 HP and 436 lb/ft Here is how it broke down the time slip. E.T. 13.328 MPH 110.2 60' 3.009 330' 6.319 660' 9.007 660 mph 93.0 1000' 11.311 Just remember, there are hundreds of variables in this and this is an optimized simulation.
He should be happy if he runs that fast, I doubt it real world tho......look how many cars at Mokan or DoD do not top 14 flat.
My 23T weighed in at 1780 and typical SBC350 mild cam, 6 2bbl 97s with only the center two hooked up, TH350, 1800 stall, 3.08 gears, ran 14.00 at 100mph. Put a 600 double pumper on it and ran 12.7 at 105mph. Interesting thing is the weight bias of that car, nose was 800 and tail was 980! My V-8 S-10 daily driver weighs 2800lb and it's bias is nose 1900lb and the tail at 900lb, spin central, lotsa of zoom factor going nowhere! Incidently, its a mild 383/700 with 411 gears,mufflers and full tailpipes, on street tires;195-75-14s, it runs 12.92 @ 107mph!
I don't hardly ever agree with Tman But he's gotta be right on this. My 23T weighs 1700 without me. It's a 90 in wheelbase Model A frame little car. 283, T-5, 4.11 open banjo on 600X16's. It ran a 13.5 and 101. right off the street, just adjusted air pressure.
My 289 sits at 2500 on the freeway, with a T5 and 4.11's. Actually runs better on the freeway than it did with 3.55's, and it was almost undriveable with the stock 2.78's. Step up the rears to 3.25's or at least 3.00's and I bet that thing runs like a scalded cat. Slap some cheaters slicks on it, dump that clutch and have a ball.
2.41 rear gears those are not drag racing gears . they are highway gears . the first 60' make your e.t. . those gears will give you a poor 60' time . dont expect it to be quick , but maybe have good mph ................ steve
Exactly, I believe he will not be able to shift his trans anywhere near as fast as the simulation would lend you to believe. So the two second rule would apply. On my truck I have a first gen Tremec TKO that I pretty much shift without the clutch and I still lag every time. Very hard to be consistent with a manual. And for the record, that same program has me in the mid to high 11's and the best I have ever done is a 12.6 @ 117. But I think I may have figured out the majority of that one.
I thought the first gear is too high therefore I left the 2.41. Maybe it would be a 2.7 - 3 if my first gear was just 3 or so instead of the 3.75. Therefore I don't wat to use too high rear end ratio. Am I wrong? Please correct me. Maybe a 3.08 rear would be at the middle of good cruising and good acceleration and the engine doesn't screams because of the high speed.
depends on how it hooks ..first 60 feet is were its at ..sthall gears tire size ..stick? power to lbs is there if it hooks good .. in the teens
oldguard: It's very interesting that your S-10 can run a very good time with that weight and the little street tires! What is the secret?
I've always wondered; is the horsepower figure based on flywheel, or rear-wheel? Different drivelines eat up vastly different amounts of horsepower, and it does depend on hooking up to the track.
I used car test and it says I will make 12 at quarter mile. I know, this is just a computer program... Here's the software, if you are interested: http://www.cartestsoftware.com/cartest4.5/index.html You can test the car in real time.
FWHP. These simulators basically give you something to shoot for, like a 13.0 @ 99 when 14.0 is more reasonable. CoolCat, you have a transmission that was designed for a truck. If you put lower gears in the back you are going to need a tire to launch in first gear. Worry abut your MPH first, then ET. Tom
I agree on it weighing more than 1800, that's what my t-bucket weighs. I'm running a med. built 350/350 with a 4.11 open *** end. I took it to the track last year and it acutaly spun more at the track than it does on the street, it was still slip sliding at the end of the eighth. The crowd was impressed with the smoking the whole eighth thing but I thought for sure it'd hook up at the track and it didn't. My avatar picture is from a dead start not power braking or anything and that's what it did at the track, I'd say you'll be in the 14's with your car.
Flywheel horsepower, in the program you use variables like gear ratio, type of transmission, power coupling, frontal area, coefficient of drag and tire type to determine ET. There are plenty of online horsepower calculators that can take your ET and trap speed along with your vehicle weight to determine wheel horsepower. If you were to use this data with known flywheel numbers you could figure out the parasitic loss of your drivetrain.
The Jalopy Journal
