Hello, Im wiring up my 35 and was wondering if I can wire up my super simple rod without a fuse panel? Maybe use inline fuses where neccesary, and dash switches to control everything. Ive always built muscle cars with alot of accesories but this car only has headlights, taillights, turn signals, and dash lights. Oh yeah and the engine harness. If anyone knows a website or a thread that has some diagrams that would be great. Im not an electrical novice by any means, my job is working with electric motors and circuit boards so techie stuff is OK. Im looking to do it this way because the price of these "universal kits" is a little steep. I think 200.00 can be spent on other cool visable shit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
i can hook you up with a wiring diagram for a honda choper.it looks like it would be really simple to modify it for use in a car
saw this in Speedway catalog part #913-64001 $32.95. includes a plastic board and places to put volt reg, turn signal and they include a fuse block.or head out to a yard and find late model and yank out panel
I'd make sure there was a fusible link at the battery connection (starter) and at the alternator or generator - otherwise I don't see a problem.
Thanks for the input. I know I dont want to use a hacked up late model panel. Has anyone ever used one of the kits available for turn signals from hotronics or ron francis? The kit isnt one that goes on your column, it just has two switches.
The fuckwit who rewired my Nova didn't use a fuse panel. In fact he never used ANY fuses, just hard wired everything in. Actually, I did find one in-line fuse while I was ripping all that shit out, but it was taped into the wiring loom where only SpiderMan with X ray vision would be able to see it! The fuckin' numbnuts then had the balls to tell me: "'67 Novas never had fuses"
Does anyone have a sketch or schematic they have used in the past? Also Im running LED taillights, do I need a relay for them? I thought Id wire up the car starting with a quality ignition switch. And use it to distribute power where needed.
I just srtipped a 74 ford P/U and one usefull thing I found was the fuse panel it's only 3X3 inches sqaure and has enough spots for a simple vehicle and it's held to the firewall with two simple screws, I would use a fusebox it will speed up any repairs if you have a problem down the line.
A VW Beetle has 8 fuses, in a 1"x6" panel. Cheap and easy to find. Radio shack or your local farm store(farm and fleet, tractor supply, etc) sell 6 fuse panels that use glass fuses for around $4. Just some other options. -Jeff
i thought of using one from a late model and decided against it. i bought one from ezwiring.com. it was cheap enough. i have not installed it yet. all the wires aare labeled every foot or so. i think this will make easy in the future if there is a problem or i want add a radio or whatever.
[ QUOTE ] Does anyone have a sketch or schematic they have used in the past? Also Im running LED taillights, do I need a relay for them? I thought Id wire up the car starting with a quality ignition switch. And use it to distribute power where needed. [/ QUOTE ] If you have experience with electrical devices then you already know that a wise person will place a fuse in ANY circuit that has a possibility of shorting. Nobody plans to have a short in their wiring but it does happen...fuses keep an uncomfortable situation from turning ugly. As for your LED tailights...be sure to use the correct flasher module, the LED units do not draw enough current to cause the old school flashers to cycle on and off.
wired my friends '31 with a universal fuse box from pep boys (around $10), the headlight switch has a fuse in it, so just running light, brake light, headlights and dash light. then a fusible link for the ignition.
I've used a similar kit from Watson's street works and they are fine. One little double trow toggle will do the job nicely. I believe Skip posted the wiring diagram for this system so it could be done very inexpensively quite a while back, I have it but we're in temporary housing til our place is done and won't be able to get to it for a month or so. Watson's is pretty cheap though. You can add a timer to the circuit to automatically cancel you signals after a few minutes - just in case you forget and start driving your uddy's nuts.
This sounds like a terrible idea to me. The best the wiring will ever be is when you crimp and connect the last wire. If your wires all merge on the back side of the ignition switch, with inline fuses for everything that is fused, the wiring will definitely be a brown and sticky chocolate mess. Think carefully before deciding to follow your proposed course of action.
Just another idea If you have a big truck boneyard near by old white tractors have nice panels left kick panle that have a whole lot of circut brakers that pull out some of tham have push button resets the ones that dont have buttons auto reset,and the best part is thay will plug into a universal style fuse panel.The amp rateing is marked on the braker also.If you find one tractor you will have more brakers than you will need.
i'll prolly never find it, but about a year ago Rev Magazine had an article in it wherein they created a fuse box, including flashers, etc., and had only about $30.xx in the whole shootin' match. maybe someone has it at their fingertips and can tell you which issue it was so you can order a back issue. maybe someone at Rev is a hamber and can help out. i know what ryan said about searches right now, but i think someone on here posted a very similar "how-to" about 6 months ago. sorry, ryan, for suggesting a search.
Wired my 42 with two inline fuses, under the dash I can never find them when they blow and its dark ! ;-) Anyway one for the ignition/Fan The other for lights.
You can install in-line fuses in the appropiate circuits but I've found it's really easier to simply use one of NAPA's 8 circuit fuse panels. One feed wire to the panel and you come off the panel to feed each circuit. Animalain tells truth. You stand the chance of burning your hot rod to the ground if a short circuit is encountered with no circuit protection... BTW, the napa panel cost me $10.
Check out Boat fuse blocks They're small and pretty cheap most are under 20 bucks on ebay. They usually have 8 circuits, and they have a waterproof cover over them, which is why i'm planning to use one in the roadster. Does anybody have a simple diagram they could post?
here's the only diagram i've seen..i "borrowed" it from the how to build an old driver cheap post.here goes creepy
If you can find aircraft circuit breakers in the 10-20-30-40 amp range for the various circuits you need to protect, they work really good. I've seen some salvage stuff on e-bay but most of it was in the 1-5 amp range. It's OK to wire a car without fuses as long as you don't mind putting out the fire and replacing the charred and blackened harness and/or the paint-interior-warped body panels etc. pigpen
Thank you all. Im going to go with a generic fuse panel. I did not know I could buy one so cheap. I agree that every cicuit needs a fuse and that Ill probably get a cleaner install with the panel. Again thanks for all the great information. It never ceases to amaze me how informative all the HAMBers are.
.......yeah, thats my hokey ass wireing diagram lol, used an under $4 radio shack fuse holder with the glass fuses. lol should have seen there faces when i told them what i was doing with it lol
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