I am tired of leaking header flanges

I am tired of leaking header flanges they never seal ... I would like to cut them off and replace them with v band clamps.. i have look around but the prices are insane $50 each with weld on flanges ...

has anyone ever used v band clamps on there exhaust ! where can i buy the complete kit flanges and clamps cheap?

 

I have always used solid aluminum donut gaskets, and never had a leak. For example, If your header collector is 2-1/2 dia, get a donut for 2-1/4 pipe, and the taper on both sides fits the hole perfect.

 

This isn't the answer to your question but I'm so impress with them I have to mention that my Sanderson headers don't run any gaskets to the block and have never leaked...I'm still amazed...

 

Ive had the worst luck with leaks from all possible areas on my headers anything I did just kept leaking. Then I stole copper gaskets from my uncle and havent had a problem since. I was also very genurous with the sealer.

 

I can't get mine to seal for shit. I have used aluminum, copper, fiber, everything. I finally got the block to seal using the stack of aluminum gaskets, but the collector still leaks. Of course the flamethrowers don't help much.

 

i used the crap paper gaskets that came with my hedmans and havent had a prob, lol. been a year and goin strong. i thought headers were gonna be a pain

 

i had some cheapie headers on my 66 chevelle , couldnt get them to stop leaking , i even tried copper . i finally got these gaskets made by earls? , i think, they were alum. with some kind of soft metal inserts that were replaceable. sealed right up , but for the collectors i just cut them off and welded them strait to the exh. pipe
FINK

 

try soaking the gaskets in hot water to soften them a bit...then install wet. works every time

 

I don't seem to have problems like so many complain of. I use a good quality gasket and tighten then evenly, both at the head and the collector flange. If you just tighten the shit out one bolt first, you stand a good chance of warping the flange and PRESTO - leaks! I also use the crush style lock nuts on the collector bolts since if they loosen even a little bit, your friend the leak is back.

 

soak them overnight in a pail of water ,throw them on and forget about your leaks.

 

Use some RTV like the guy in the other thread... haha..

 

but make sure you use the high heat red stuff

 

If you have overtightened the flanges and warped them, they will continue to leak with what ever new gaskets you install. The deadsoft alum work very well if you have good flanges and don't over tighten the bolts/nuts.
If your flanges are warped, a little hammer and dolly work should get them back to straight.
Make sure you check them after the first few drive cycles as the heat will make the bolts loosen up, just like on the head flanges.

 

I have heard that some circle track guys use the red RTV and it works for them...

Someone told me that when I was mocking the fact that someone had used it...

Not that I would try it...

 

You guys are fricking killing me !!!!!!!! LOL

 

I run the v-band clamps Bought the headers almost 15 years ago still dont leak. pressure side of a turbo. theres nothing beter on the market......You get what you pay for.. The headers were $900 smackers even then...... I believe they are aviation based. I also see they are avalable at Diesel repar shops

Edit: and if theyare leaking at the flange because it warped. Buy better headers

 

I had the same problem. I got some REMFLEX graphite gaskets…problem solved.

www.REMFLEX.COM

 

Run a large flat file over the flanges to make sure they are flat. I use the better Mr Gasket gasket's, I think they are the Ultra Seal or something like that. Use ARP 12 point header bolts, they aren't traditional but they will be someday. This works for me.

Ron

 

We don't have many issues with our flanges; we only use 3/8" or thicker and we plane them on a large surface sander a little as necessary after welding, to make sure the sealing surfaces are flat. As mentioned above, high-quality aluminum or copper gaskets help alot, as does copper RTV if necessary.

Anyway, we do use V-band flanges on some of our exhausts, when the customer is looking for ease of removal/adjustment, a high level of sealing, and/or a unique appearance. $50 isn't a bad price for high-quality ones (machined flanges tend to seal better than the less-expensive stamped ones) but the price does add up quickly. Try $90 for stainless steel V-band assemblies. Yikes!

 

The silicone copper is better. I've even re used gaskets by coating them with it. If your headers don't have 3/8" flanges, throw them away and get some good ones.

 

Clear silicone, a mate of mine told me that years ago , his reasoning was that when they cremated, shall we say ladies who have had implants all thats left is a ball of silicone (and ash) so if it don't burn at that temperature then its good enough to seal my exhaust !!!
And you know what it works every time ,never had a problem since

 

when i ran with the RD350 crowd a few years back, RTV was all you used to seal the chamber to the cylinder, then hooked the spring to hold it on. thats the hottest part of the pipe, and it sealed fine.....

 

Permatex Ultra-Copper....read the ad

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...mum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

 

Use stock gaskets where you can.

Use ARPs stainless steel header bolts with the 3/8" hex head.
(They exceed grade 8 strength-wise.)

Use red RTV on the bolt threads as a form of LocTite.
(They remove easy.)

Re-torque the bolts after running the engine a day or two.
The gasket takes a 'crush' set and the bolts lose clamping torque.

Works on my home-made headers using home-made 1/4" thick flanges.
15 years, 47,000 miles, a few removals of the heads and no probs.

 

I don't think stainless steel fasteners can exceed the strength of steel fasteners. JC

 

Fuck a bunch of silicone or RTV. High quality copper or aluminum gaskets work great. Just make sure both your flanges and the head are straight. They also make great collector gaskets as well. Though the ball seal collectors work great as well.

And on my RD400 and RZ350 I had great luck with just the stock Yamaha gaskets and springs...

 

If you are trying to say there is nothing stronger than Grade 8 I think you may want to rethink your argument. ASTM A490 for example exceeds Grade 8 in tensile strength by 20,000 lbs. Hmmm...

 

That is not a stainless steel fastener is it? Ware did I say grade 8? Hmmm JC

 

I cut off my flat collectors and welded on ball-and-cone style collectors from Dr. Gas.

tightened them up and have never had a leak.

 

I cured all of my leaking collecter problems years ago and have done every set of collecters since. Talke a short piece of tubing that will just slip inside of the collecter and and tack weld it so that it extends into the pipe about a 1/4". This takes all of the pressure off the gasket, so even if they happend to loosen a little, the gasket lives.