I need to purchase two hood retainer clips to finish the modified cowl band mounting on my A coupe. They'll be fastened at the bottom of the band ends near the running boards since I can't use the standard mounting bolts. Generally, I buy stainless hardward when it's available. However, these have a big difference in price. I can get a pair of chrome ones for $16.50 plus shipping, while the stainless ones would be$34.50 plus some increase in shipping based on the increased price. So, please weigh in on the relative merits. Money is a somewhat,but not controlling issue,butnit's a lot for two little pieces.
I just had the same dilemma with the hangers for my lake pipes. SS was twice as much. I opted for the cheaper chrome hangers, mostly because the pipes I have are chrome, but I was surprised at the cost difference.
Yer only talking about $20 ?????? Only TWENTY DOLLARS difference? How much is this car worth? this is a no brainer, I'd say.
We do stainless on our cars whenever it is possible. Not as strong as steel so we don't use it in critical spots but everywhere else if possible. We buy it unpolished and do that ourselves, saves some bucks.
Either one. I have both on my cars. If you want, you can sand/buff up the stainless to get the chrome like shine. Most of my stainless is polished to a chrome like shine. Here is a stainless- polished air intake I had done a few years back.
Oh, I know I should do stainless,especially since these will be mounted at the lower ends of the cowl band instead of top center (I already have one for there). But the economy--- well,you know, and my business is off quite a bit, and I've lots more to buy. I've done stainless everywhere I can,though it's definitely a hot rod, NOT a street rod and it's NOT for sale.
?????? Averages: A-36 WCB Carbon Steel Tensile= 70 ksi, Yield= 36 ksi, BHN = 150, Elongation=35 % A316 CF8M Stainless Tensile= 70 ksi, Yield= 30 ksi, BHN = 150, Elongation=30 %
Do what you can afford. I do like stainless, but I must tell you that the chrome I have has worked very well for me over the past 8 years. Never a single issue with any of my chrome and I have driven from Iowa to Kansas, Indianapois, Illinois, Minnesota. Having said that, make sure you buy the well made (thicker) chrome pieces. Then I rough up the gasket surface with some sandpaper, add gasket or sealer and ****on it up. Good luck.
What's the big deal...??? If you purchase either...and you're the only guy that knows what you purchased/used...and if polished pieces look like stainless...and vice versa...sounds like you're wasting a lot of time (which usually equates to money) trying to find someone on this board that will agree with you and save twenty ****ing dollars... what a waste of time, money and worry on your part (all three of 'em)... R-
Most body parts are stainless, chrome would be aftermarket cheap stuff. Stainless holds up for years with proper care, Chrome can go bad far faster. For larger items like bumpers and wheels, chrome is the right choice, possibly the only choice. Nitrofc wrote: SS is for hot rodders and street rodders, Chrome is also for both depending on the application. However, polished billet is definitely a street rod fixture, not normally seen on a hot rod.
I spent >$100 extra for the stainless steel bumper because it would hold up much longer than the chrome and that was but a bit of the overall price. Here,we're talking over 100% price differential.Original Ford Model A parts were, of course, not stainless,but chrome or more often nickel plated. As I stated, most of the time I've gone with stainless. I "If you can`t afford $35.00,your in the wrong hobby! " I can afford $35, but I am also using "play" money to build the car and trying to save up for paint. I've got the money, most times I make a very satisfactory living, but this winter's been tough. I won't go into details, but if you're in business, you know who gets paid last. s
The Jalopy Journal
