Type of welder used when doing frame/chassis work

So you wouldn't recommend a 135 Lincoln,with bottle. 110 v. I was going to crank it up to d-8 and let her rip, I am welding 2x4 tubing 1/8" or should I be OK.

Thanks

 

hobart handler, its a good little welder, ive used it on heavier stuff, but the duty cycle sucksw when you start getting to thick, 10 gage is usually the most i do with it

 

Yeah, I pretty much have the same question as daleracing. My buddy just bought a lincoln 140 a few days ago and we were hoping to use it for our frames.

 

Nobody uses gas and coat hangers anymore?

 

I won't use anything less than a 220 mig machine for frame work. I have a Lincoln 220v machine that i picked up for around $500 new. I use an older Auto Arc 110v machine for sheetmetal work. Any mid range namebrand (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart) machine should work for ya. I wouldn't waste my time with the harbor freight specials.

 

So the lincoln 140 on the bottle wouldnt be good enough?

 

Nope. Argon & ER70s2.

 

I've used that welder, it wont safety weld a chassis together. They just don't put out enough heat. Ya really need to step up to 220v

 

I really dont think my grandparents would let me hook uip 22v in the garage.

 

dont think you will have any problems as long as you are getting good penetration. I did my 1/8" frame with a 100 Amp Lincoln no problem. Its 1/8" not real thick shit. I set it on the highest setting and at a wire speed of about 4. Even my welding buddies like the welds. I am using my 175 Lincoln on my spring perches as they are a thicker material.

 

Miller 150/220v

 

I use 175 Lincolns at home and work and I don't see how you can MIG weld thicker than 1/8 or weld 1/8 with a smaller welder and get good penetration without fluxcore.

 

secret word "pre-heat"

 

Miller 185 mig, 220V.
Miller syncrowave 200 tig, 220V.

 

Since that welder is "suppose" to do up to 1/4" or more, you should be ok. Just be sure to clean the area to weld first. Of course welding is like religon and politics everybody and nobody is right

 

I didn't say how to do it, I was hoping someone here would enlighten us. I figured if you only welded a 1" strap, that is long, you could clamp one side in a vice and bend the other, but it isn't going to be a perfect bend. It should however induce stretching and see if the weld will tear or not. THe base metal should first if the weld is good.

 

I'll try to get my camera & some scrap tube set up & photo a fillet fracture test for you guys tonight. This can be done in anyones garage. Carl Hagan

 

I use a Millermatic 251 with .030 wire and an 85-15 gas mix for almost everything. The 251 is very versatil and is also set up with a spool gun and 100% argon gas for alum. It would be great for frame work. I also have a Millermatic 351P that has a PULSE setting. I can (MIG) weld stainless steel with stainless wire and a tri mix gas and it will look as good if not better then the pics from "straightaxlenova" Those pics are nice but I prefer a little more heat when TIG welding. Whichever welder you chose be sure to practice first. If your not that great/comfortable at welding I'd recommend you find someone to at least do the frame welding for you, It's pretty critacal to get good penatration to have a safe frame. Jost my 2 cents....KEV....

 

If you don't know the answer then you shouldnt be welding your own frame.

 

I have used my Lincoln 110v to weld up to a little over 1/8" and it worked just fine. The little guy was working hard though.

I have built roll cages with it out of .134" wall tubing, and unfortunately had my welds tested - the cage bent and deformed, but none of the welds let go. I use the larger 220V PowerMig now because its setup with .035 wire and my Weldpak 110v unit is now setup for .025 wire for sheetmetal. Both are on mixed gas. (Argon/CO2).

The PowerMig definately has more umph and a more stable arc though.

 

Thanks Bob for saying what I'm sure a lot of other guys including me were thinking...
Buger welds with poor penetration are fine for minor non life threating (Not just your own but everyone else on the road) bracketry but not a frame...

 

UCMJ Article 32(mod_1,version_2) "Penetration however slight gives maximum delight" <grin>

 

Miller usually but I learned on lincolns, anything 220. Love TIG but MIG is majority of my use when doing chassis work.

 

I have seen some vehicles where the welding theory must have been "The bigger the glob, the better the job"

 

Thats the funniest shit I have ever heard!

 

Two or three guys have mentioned using the Hobart Handler. Is that a 110 volt unit? How thick will it weld in one pass?

 

My first learning experince was with a torch and coat hanger . That was in 1970 and the coat hangers were a lot different then . I then used an old buzz box and worked great ! I don't have 220v in my garage yet so I use a Lincoln 110v for most work . NO frame work , just body work . I guess I will look for a used 220v stick welder for the frame and set the frame next to my basement window where my dryer is and use it that way . Don't know any electrictions to hook up 220v . I can do 110v wiring but I am not to sure about the 220v with all the horror stories that I have heard that people have done !

 

Welding is not like politics, someone does KNOW and that is the AWS or a cert'd welder cert'd with the AWS.

I posted a fillet fracture test with pics showing how you do this destructive tesing method at home. Just search my posts. Carl Hagan

 

I'm no TIG expert but those welds look a little cold to me? please correct me if Iam wrong.

 

I just bought a Miller 180, I see that not a lot of you are using one. It is supposed to work from 22 ga. to 5/16. I let ya know after the weekend what I think.