Sorry, no photos of strippers. This winter I plan on tearing down my coupe in preparation for a new paint job. To do it right, I want to strip it to bare metal. Sand/media blasting is not an option.... What is the best method/product available to strip the 60+ year old paint? I suspect parts of the car have newer paint. Also, a request for the body guys out there, once its stripped, what are the steps to repaint? Etching primer, primer, more primer, blocking, etc???
I have only used this on one car. But I have used it on my metal before I used it in a sculpture for years. Naval Jelly > I know this sounds weird but it works and it is highly dangerous to your skin. Do not use it as lotion. Any primer is better than no primer.
Naval jelly is a "rust remover". But it doesn't work all that well. It WILL remove paint, but that is not its design. Aircraft (or airplane) remover is some good stuff if your looking for chemical remover. Wear chemical proof gloves though. Mean stuff!
Rough up all the paint and duct tape off all the seams with duct tape and then use aircraft stripper. Wash it off really good and then do the seams with a wire wheel or sander. You have to make sure you remove all of the paint/filler/etc. that was in contact with the stripper, otherwise it could cause your paint to bubble.
if it is 40 year old plus paint then by a razorblade handle and blades. I use the big 3" blades and the paint should just flake off in sheets. I did a 48 ford last year. I sanded the fenders down and it took two days, razor bladed the entire body in a day.
I was hoping this post was going to be about Gypsy Rose Lee ("The Most Publicized Woman in the World") or Lili St. Cyr ("The Queen of Burlesque")... I've used the orange citrus stripper to strip 50 year old tanker desks and steel furniture and it worked great (biodegradeable and water soluble... and it smells pretty good). Other than a set of headlight buckets I've never tried it on a car. Anyone have any thoughts?
ive never used the orange stripper, if if it works well id use that one, because the aircraft stripper has harsh fumes and if it gets on your skin, you feel the burning in about 10 seconds, and if you dont rinse it off it hurts. But the aircraft stripper is very good, the best chemical stripper ive used yet. You should be able to get it at a local paint store or maybe hardware store. It comes as a thick yellow liquid and I think its easiest to pour the amount you think you are going to use into an ice cream bucket (or the like, just so its manageable in size and you can easily get a paint brush in it) and with the paint brush, very liberally apply the stripper, and do it like the directions say, stroke the brush in only one direction, you cant do it up and down, its either up or down. You have to put the stripper on reasonably think, its hard to explain over the net, but give it a good coat. Let it sit for at least 20 minutes. Almost right after you put the stripper on it will bubble, but dont be tempted to play with it yet, let it sit for like I said, 20 min. Then come back with a putty knife and s****e the paint off. If you give it a good coat the first time you will be almost done after one coat and s****ing. Usually have to do up to 3 or 4 coats to get it completely ****-and-span squeaky clean, but it does a good job. I hope this helps. Briggs
Citristrip all the way! I used it this summer and the stuff doesn't smell bad at all, and works better than the stuff that DOES smell bad. It's more spendy, but worth it. Give some a try. I took 4 layers of paint off of steel lawn chairs down to shiny metal in about 30 minutes with the stuff.
How does that citristrip work on rust. I have a BUNCH of surface rust on my ride. If I could save some sandpaper and elbow grease that would be great. Also after the stripping how should the be cleaned before primer.
[ QUOTE ] Sorry, no photos of strippers. [/ QUOTE ] Damn to dash my hopes brutally into the ground...
I don't know how the Citrustrip (sp?) works on rust, I think you're still going to be sanding/grinding. 36couper, it's available at Home Despot and for us Canucks at Home Hardware. The best part about it being water soluble is, once you've stripped what you're, uh, stripping you can wipe with a wet rag and it's clean. Goes on thick, takes about 20 minutes to do it's stuff, then s****e off (for the desks I use a flap wheel on a drill, which works well, but leaves a brushed finish which might not be so good on a car). The stuff's great over ice with a splash of vodka too.
[ QUOTE ] if it is 40 year old plus paint then by a razorblade handle and blades. I use the big 3" blades and the paint should just flake off in sheets. I did a 48 ford last year. I sanded the fenders down and it took two days, razor bladed the entire body in a day. [/ QUOTE ] I tried the razorblade thing and it works pretty good if its just paint, but if there is some surface rust it makes it alot harder, the blade just won't get under the paint.
Just a tip I picked up from an old timer.When you get the chemical stripper on the surface place plastic sheeting over it to keep the fumes from evaporating so quickly and holding them to the surface.This makes it work alot faster.
Okay, let's say I have the car down to bare metal, what would be the next steps be? I'll leave the final paint to a pro but what does the bare metal need to ensure the paint sticks and doesn't bubble?
Have you considered media blasting? Quicker, cheaper, and much less of mess than chemical agents. Try searching the 'net for "Media Blasting" in your home town to see if there's any listings nearby, and pay them a visit. I've done this before and I don't ever want to use chemical strippers again. I went the "walnut shells" route, but plastic media (beads) and baking soda are also excellent. Paint is removed- nothing else..and it can be done in a single day without having to remove gl***. Look into it before you get the chemicals. It's a terriffic option few are familiar with. Prices out here are less than 500 for a complete car, done in a single day (when you've got an appointment). Tough to beat, I think. Scotch~!
after the car is stripped and washed clean go over the whole car with 180 on a DA use some kind of etching prime. before you prime do not touch the car with your bare hands it will cause surface rust.
once youve stripped it you wanna get it really clean and then maybe go over it with a da or die grinder with a stripping pad or a scotchbrite pad, or even a medium grit paper. Wipe it down with laquer thinner, then etch prime. Then epoxy prime or filler prime, block the filler down to your preferance, but remember that a good block job makes all the difference after you paint. Take your time. Then it will probably have to be primed one more time, but within a few hours of shooting the paint, and im guessing the painter will apply that layer of primer. What are you building? Briggs
Briggs......I'm not building anything. Its already built and I have been driving the **** out of it for two years ('36 coupe-one of the Top 20 finalists for the R&C Ego-Rama). Its been an evolutionary process; Year 1- new ch***is, running gear, Year 2- new interior, Year 3- new paint. Unlike some trad guys here, I like my car to shine! Thanks........excellent tips.
i hate bodywork,been avoiding it as much as possible.but i'm learning.i'm using this http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1673&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=516&iSubCat=517&iProductID=1673 and chemical stripper-george
Hey Al....Bring it to my house and we will let Maddie throw rocks at it.....It will take a few weeks but it wont cost ya cent See ya at the corn roast J Scotch has the right idea......thats what I am doing with the deuce
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