I have some but have yet to use it as the cooling system has to be 100% drained - I talked to the tech guy at Evans and there is no way that you should use this except from a 'dry' installation. That means effectively that the engine has to be pulled to get it fully drained.
http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm There's some roundy round guys i know that swear by the stuff. You do have to start with a dry cooling system, but it's not cheap stuff! It'd be an expensive damn shame to spit a hose off and drain it all over the road...
Weasel..............I know you don't have to pull the motor to put it in. You must drain the block by pulling the drain plugs out. They are pipe plugs in the block about an inch above the oil pan rail. There is one one either side of a V-8. I have it in my pro street car and both my daily drivers. It is not a 1/2 hr job, to do it right it will take time. Biggest thing is getting all the old coolant out and flushing with water, then removing all the water.
I have Evans coolant in all my vehicles ranging from a 1912 Model T to a 1927 Rolls Royce to the 1928 Model A hotrod and many others. Evans is an amazing product because it will not corrode any metals which is the common characteristics of all normal antifreezes (despite what the tell you). Evans is also great at preventing the destructive gell that builds up when antifreeze is used in engines that have mixed metals such as iron blocks with aluminum heads and copper gaskets. (This stuff is great in Ford Flathead engines with aluminum heads and I would say mandatory on anything with an aluminum block!!!)It is a very thick product when cold (almost like oil when it is freezing outside) but turns to a water consistency when hot. It has a much higher boiling point than normal antifreeze while at the same time holds its heat when the engine is real cold. I have been using Evans in all the cars I have owned for at least ten years and have driven these cars tens of thousands of miles. Evans was originally designed and used for the guys with real expensive racecars and drag cars. The guys that do the Great American Race found out about Evans and it became the coolant of choice for the cross country vintage race guys. Evans will also not corrode babbit bearings as regular antifreeze will if it finds its way into the crankcase. Lately Evans has found its way into the collector car world and, in my oppinion is probably one of the best products out there. The down side is that it is expensive (about 20.00 plus for a gallon) and that it can't be mixed with anything else. So, if you have a car that looses coolant, you need to carry some spare gallons of Evans with you to replace it. Evans is used straight-not mixed with water or any other antifreeze. While putting it in a fresh "dry" system is the ideal choice, you can also drain your system of its current antifreeze, run the car with water and drain it out (do this a couple of times to rinse the antifreeze out). Then you can let the car sit with its hoses, caps, etc off and let what water remains evaporate. There is also a steaming process that Evans recommends to get the water remains out.
I use it im my A and my 4x4. My buddy had it in his 57 for 10 years and he took off the alum manifold and it looked like a brand new one in the p***ages. He never changed the Evans he just used a coffee filter to strain it and reuse it when ever he worked on it. My big block A was a pain to cool, but the evans fixed it , I look at the gas gauge now instead of the temp. My 4x4 I use in Moab in august at qround 120 degrees outside, crawling up rocks at .004 MPH uphill all day and it never gets hot now. The cool thing is seeing your oil pressure at 40 lbs at idle when the temp reads 200. The heat is held in the coolant so your gauge will read a little higher when your really working the engine. I will never use anything but Evans (provided they dont go out of business)
Pros and Cons Pros- It works. You car will cool more effectively. No corrosion issues. Cons- It's expensive, and cannot be mixed or diluted with anything else. It's a commitment, but if you don't mind carrying some with ya (just in case) it does work well. Personally, after using it and being impressed, I still went back to traditional coolant/water mixes. I found that I'd rather work on engineering a more effective cooling system that can be serviced anywhere than stick with the commitment to Evans coolant. A guy with fear of commitment? Ya...I know.
What's going to happen if it does get mixed with some water or antifreeze? For instance, I'm running cross country, and have an issue where I lose 50% of my coolant, and don't have enough of this Evans stuff in the trunk to refill my system? If I top it off with water does it form some kind of corrosive acid or **** into a cloud of deadly vapor? Or is kind of a fuel/water scenario where the two just don't mix? Side note: Anybody ever used oil in their cooling system?
If you happen to spring a leak on the road and your in the boonies and only can use water, then just add water to get you home. The upside of their coolant is, if it's just mixed with water, you can drain it and by putting it in a pan, you can boil the water out and give you fresh coolant to reuse. Mixing water will not hurt anything, but you defeat the purpose of what the coolant does. It's boiling point is 375 degF, so by adding say 50% water, your chances of boiling the water is better then if the straight coolant was in the radiator. I've had it in my hot rod 8 yrs now and have never had a problem, had it in my daily drivers for 5 yrs, no problems. Yea, it's expensive, but look at it this way.........boiling point 375 degF, eliminates electrolysis, is totally compatible with all metals, never has to be changed out. There's 4 things water can't do. I swear by it.
I searched a bit and found out that it is 100% propylene glycol. This is the same glycol that is used in home heating systems up here in the northeast and other industrial applications. Nothing exotic about it, just has a really high boiling point compared to water or ethylene glycol. In heating applications, we dilute it with water 50/50 because it is viscous and it has less heat transfer capability than water. We don't like to use it unless we really have to. Typical problems include premature pump seal failure (ceramic seals get gummed up), staining from leaks, and it is expensive. It is not a miracle product, just a common industrial chemical with well known attributes. JB 472
Going to resurrect this one from the dead as I see a lot of concern about what if this and that regarding the cooling system pressure with higher temps running Evans. The fact that Evans boils at 374° at 0 psi means that pressurization is unnecessary. The only reason you run a pressurized cooling system is to keep the water in the system from boiling, there's no more water in the system with Evans. You can drill a byp*** hole in the lower sealing portion of the cap and you run it at atmospheric pressure, no more hot water bomb trying to escape to atmosphere. I've had great success running it this way.
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