I have been kicking around the idea of installing a transbrake in the Fly. I know....it's not traditional but I can't get a decent burnout(rear brakes only) and it makes it much easier to stage with a brake. Can you tell me if this is something I can do on my own or is it better left up to a shop? Here's the skinny on the ******. Aluminum glide 1.82, with a standard glide spline, 3500 stall convertor, standard shift pattern. I opted not to install the tb on overhaul just so I could get her done in time for the drags last year. Now I wished I would have. Talk to me here boys....
One other question. I see Summit and Hughes performance sells valve bodies ready to go. Is this a must? Or can I use my old valve body and make it work?
Contact JW Performance Transmissions http://www.racewithjw.com/ 321-632-6205 I've been around the block a few times, and I've learned no one knows more about killer Powerglides than JW. Nice folks too. They will help you get exactly what you need. Scotch~!
Root, the trans brake will make life a lot better. They all function essentially the same, when in L (low) position the ****on is pressed and the reverse band is engaged, effectively locking up the trans. When you release the ****on it disengages the reverse band and allows the power to flow through the forward gears. Most only engage the ****on in L and R positions. There are two basic types: those that require you to hold the ****on for reverse to function, and those that will be in reverse when the shifter is in R position. In other words, the first type will be like neutral even in R position until you press the ****on. Makes backing up a bit more difficult as you have to keep one hand on the ****on. Not being a ****** expert, I do not know if you can do it yourself, seems that everyone just buys a trans brake valve body already modified from the suppliers. Your input shaft does not matter, it only determines what kind of converter you use. I.E. you have to run a powerglide converter with PG input and turbo converter with turbo input shaft. BTW, I am sure you know this, but all trans brake valve bodies are full manual. Some are reverse pattern in that the shift pattern is P-R-N-L-D.
Ask Don Garlits. He had a great idea of how to modify a Powerglide! Here's a great story for you about the Crowerglide clutch in the Hemi Hunter 1971. http://www.draglist.com/stories/SOD%20Nov%202001/SOD-112901.htm
**** being traditional... the object here is to haul-*** in a car that looks old. Some guys make their own ****** brakes... but I'd opt to just buy a trans brake valve body and do it yourself. We checked into DIYS trans kits... but by the time you are all said and done, you have just about the same amount of money into it as one that is already built for you. I think there is a valuable lesson to be learned with drag racing... my advice to people wanting to race is to do it on the cheap, and have loads of fun going fast... save money and build the car yourself... but when it comes to things like safety, auto transmissions, fuel systems and ignition... leave it up to the experts or BECOME AN EXPERT YOURSELF. BTW, you're gonna LOVE it the first time you let go of that ****** brake... they kick ***. I would also step up to a two step rev limiter so it sets your launch RPM the same... every run. This will be exremely important when you step up to a motor with more power and launch RPM becomes even more critical. Sam.
I used to have a transbrake in my old altered. I liked the way it worked but I had bought the ****** from Neal Chance and it was already installed. I see Summit has a kit but does it come with the solenoid or is that another hundred bucks in addition to the 300 for the valve body?
I have a 2 step with a brake in my Chevy II and I LOVE IT! Just like dumpin' the clutch in a manual car.
well waht kind of warranty did you get? because to install a trans brake it needs to come allapart again and if i sold it to you i would not want to hear yo utook it apart,my 2 cents, thereis areverse band spring that must come out and other adjustments ,yah yo ucan do it , but for the price of peace of mind sell it or trade it to get a full trans brake ******,with the reverse lock out ****on, you dont want to shift into reverse on the track ,it makes a mess
Hughes Performance in Phoenix Arizona builds some of the best stuff out there for glides. You will need a complete valve body , solenoid & related valves to make the transbrake work. Wires, switches , fuses No automatic shifts Keep in mind the valve body will run the ****** at a high main line pressure FULL time.
Put a rev limiter on it ,a 1:82 planetary is not very strong and any good HP engine and decent traction will explode them ,Not if ,It will explode them. The pro brake engages any time it's activated, stay away from them as it can get hairy on the interstate at 85 when it engages. I would never run a brake without a shield,I've seen too many with the ****** parts on top of the dash and ATF DExron covering all the windows inside.No problem installing them though. I just feel that a trans brake Power-Glide needs a few extra parts to stay together and function well . Stock type shafts & hubs and 1:82 planetaries would not hack it in my car. Best of luck if I can help P.M. me. Trans KIng in Texas makes a good brake also.
Hey Roothawg,,, could you post a side view pic of your car.. I keep trying to watch your avator, but you are just to damn quick!!! I am intersted in the trans brake also.. I have a 24 model t with a sbc in it and a line lock on the front wheels,, all that seems to be doing is slide the front end while I am doing a burnout...
Oh yeah guys... that's one thing I did was to put a toggle switch inline before the transbrake ****on, so I can turn the transbrake circuit off completely to eliminate the fear of hitting the ****on while moving.
The "pro brake" (the one that you have to use the ****on to engage reverse was designed to relase quicker for a pro tree cl*** and work very well). Putting a kill switch in the system is a good idea if you hit the ****on on accident all hell brakes loose. If you put a brake in the car you will want to install a good kevlar low gear band in the trans and you must have the band adjustment right on the money or the car will back out of the beams if reverse overpowers low gear. Back the band adjusting stud out untill it is finger loose. Then turn it in with an inch pounds torque wrench to 70 inch pounds. Then back the stud off four full turns and set the lock nut to 15 foot pounds (be sure to hold the stud from turning untill you snug the nut just a bit before torquing). We do this every 12 p***es on our digger and have never had the car even flinch in the beams. Also you might want to insall a quick set in the trans case. It is jsut a cast alum piece that fills a cavity in the back of the trans case and will allow the brake to set faster (you can even stage the car with the brake if you are up on the converter). As far as the valve body goes just buy one and bolt it in (there is a plate that has to be made to go between the two halves of the valve body and several p***ages inside the body have to be tweaked). Then just screw the brake solenoid in the back of the case and wire up the switch.
I may have to wait til this off season to do the ****** mod. I was pondering doing this before the day of the drags but I think I'll wait.
Not to change the subject Root... but I was thinking about your injection problem the other night... and was thinking that it sounds like plugged injectors or lines... you said some were not getting any fuel at all and others were getting too much. Injection works off of pressure, so it makes sense that if a few lines were plugged, the pressure to the other injectors will increase... hence, more flow to the ones that aren't clogged. Did you get your fuel checked yet? Sam.
I pulled all the nozzles and checked em. I also pulled the fitiings on the barrel valve. No trash in the screens either. I changed the fuel and it runs 100% better but we made so many adjustments....we have to start over at square 1. I want to get electricity in my shop soon so I can piddle on it until that time comes.(day of the drags) Oh yeah, all the plugs had fuel but some more than others.It may have been a couple of problems but we thaought it was just the one. No biggie. I need to set up the rear shoes tighter, so I can get more power for the foot brake action.
And no I haven't had a chance to check the fuel out myself. The guy I bought it from saved a gallon of it for that reason. The rest is going on my fence line...
I just happen to build quite a few glides,and just happen to have a spare TCI brake,with the exception of the solenoid.It's not magic,however the glide does need to be removed torn down and two holes drilled in the rear of case into the reverse piston area,well actually one to be drilled one to be enlarged.Not to whip a dead horse or anything but did you figure out the other deal yet?
Roothawg I build my powerglides my self.I have a 1:82 planetary set as well it has been cut down to run a "Shorty" glide. The 1:82 is weaker than the 1:76 but with a light car like a dragster it's not so bad. I have never had problems with mine. I do not however run a trans brake.I have installed many though and can tell you how, although most come with pretty good instructions, if i remember correctly all you have to do machine wise is drill some holes or a hole in the back of the ****** case. It won't help you to do burnouts though for that you need a line lock and front brakes. I don't have front brakes on my digger so I just do "open wheel burnouts" or go past the tree.e-mail me off group if you have questions, PM me and i will reply with a Ph# if you wish to call me.
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