Im closing the gap on all the working parts of my truck... and im fairly close to being ready to start the body work.. My plan is to sand off all the old paint I can and put a primer sealer on top of that... for the last year Ive been Eyeballing Zchrome by Clausen... Ive heard good stuff about it.. but wanted to get some options from you guys. heres some info on clausen zchrome. Z-Chrome is a self etching, stain resistant, lightweight body filler which renews the lifetime corrosion protection system offered by O.E. Manufacturers against outer-body rust on zinc dipped and galvanized sheet metal. Includes hardener Can be used with Smooth out seen below gallon about 23 bucks
Best? Other than from experience or brand loyalty, that's open. I buy OMNI it's ppg. Here's what I do, works good and lasts a long time. After the first block sanding of the old paint I spray (any brand) with fill primer that's easy to sand NOT epoxoy or anything exotic. That usually takes 2 or 3 episodes. Then I spray on primer compatible to the top-coat. In my case I usually use Acrylic Enamel, so I go to the Paint Store and get the primer that is recommended to use for Acrylic Enamel. The first coat (sealer) of that primer is a "tack coat". I do that to make sure there is no problems with compatibality between what was left with the old paint and my fill/block/ steps, and/or conflict with original substance and final topcoat. That accomplished I do one more good cross-coat/block/fill/block of the 'sealer' and skuff for final............ My theory/reason for spending so much time on primer is that I never use a clear-coat or buff/polish the final paint, so the last primer coat has to be baby-**** smooth.
Im with ya there... my truck is going to be a semi gloss or satin black ... from afar you cant see imperfections but up close that satin finish to me shows everything... so Im wanting to get a "baby-**** smooth" finish before I lay down the top coat.
I have used PPG DP 90 with good results. I don't think you can go too far wrong with it but it's not cheap.
Hey man, tell me where I can get some twenty-five dollar a gallon Acrilic Enamel and I'll try it! OMNI costs me around a hundred a gallon.......I thought that WAS ceap
I would say BASF, Glasurit or R/M but I am rep for a jobber that sells it. I do know it is very user friendly but quite alot more money than what you posted. I would suggest this; Find a local body supply who is willing to help you with all your questions the entire way through your project, one who is knowledgeable with their products. Most all paint lines are GOOD if you can get the right information from a solid source. Stick with one line the entire way through. You will most likely NOT have any reaction between two products, however IF PPG, Dupont, BASF makes a change in one of their products they will make sure it still works with the entire line. They're not going to call each other and make sure it all intermixes though. Can be a timely and costly mistake if it happens. The first four letters or paint are PAIN Also, is this a car you plan to keep forever? Do you want the paint failing in a few years or after you have died? You may save a few hundred bucks right now but in five years you may find yourself re-doing a job you didn't want to, likely costing you triple in the end, due to time and inflation. Just like a house, paint is only as good as its foundation.
Well to be honest.. my taste changes every few years.. to say in 5 years I wont want a candy, a flake, flames, shiny paint, whatever... who knows... im 28 and ive owned 9 vehicles since i was 16... but I really love the old 65... and wont sell it... but it may have a few diff personalities in its life time. That said Im painting the truck satin or semigloss black... and I dont want it to look cheap. like a krylon job... Id prefer it to look stealthy and smooth...and straight.
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