The Mother of All ROLL BAR threads!!!!!

This pic on the 60's T-Bucket thread along with yesterday's Jalopy Journal post made me think that we need some pics of roll bars from back in the day. Throw up any roll bars that go hand and hand with on topic cars. Vintage pics from the heydays would be awesome. T-buckets, Laksters, FED's, Belly Tanks, whatever! Round Tube, Square Tube show us what you have.

 

here's a few pics that I had saved, I probably found these here on the HAMB

 

And you cant forget Jim Lakey's Metropoliton from Lakeys Speed Shop in Piqua Ohio

 

cool thread

 

Those are awesome!!! I am thinking of maybe running a Chromed one in my roadster once I start it's transformation. Keep 'em coming.

 

I have always liked roll bars and have wondered why they were lost throughout the years.

I would love to see others so bring'm.



******Knuckles

 

This one on theScotty's T looks to be about the same as on the RPU above

 

Heres the one that was inmy 33 coupe when I got it. It's made of pluming pipe. After I got it out you could see how crude it was, would probably do more harm that good but the car did actually roll so I guess it was good for something

 

I love the "nodes."

 

There has got to be more, right?



******Knuckles

 

I have a 48 Ford Coupe that was once a racer back in the 50's. The roll bars consist of two driveshafts welded to the frame behind the driver seat with the yoke end up. Another drive shaft is welded across the yokes at the top then two more driveshafts are welded with their yokes near the top and extending back and welded to the frame where it starts to hump for the rear end. Welds look like they were done with battery, jumper cables and coat hanger. What balls they had back then.

 

Galvanized roll cage ... cool ... shouldn't rust ... Joe

 

Chris ... are you going to chop the roof on the 34 - 5 window?

Joe

 

I've been trying to find a decent looking bar for my T to copy

 

Yep!

 

I welded this one up for the tub before the drags last year. It bolts in so is removable.

 

And from what you describe on the roll bar construction the balls were inversely proportional to size of the brain It's not too dificult to realize why hot rodding had the reputation it once had.

Frank

 

Let see some more examples.

 

Here's a couple of pics that show the chromed hoop in our chopped & channeled '32 5wd coupe:


photo by 49ratfink


photo by Pat pgan Ganahl

Pretty much a joke as far as providing much safety in the event of a roll-over ... but it did meet NHRA standards in 1958!

 

I love any thread about tube or the art of bending tube.

[SIZE=+0][/SIZE]Cool thread!

 

Here's mine, made from stainless, so except for a little polishing, no finish needed.

 

Wow, that is a pretty large center line radius. Did you buy that or make it yourself?

 

We make a kayak cart that requires a descending radius bend that we do in two operations on an ercolina bender, and we got the die special for that job. It was stupid expensive, but we've made almost 2000 carts, so I guess it's paying for itself. Have since learned how to make our own dies by modifying ones from other (cheaper) manufacturers. Check out our website waterwheelboatcarts.com.

 

Here is a cage that we built in a customer's '33 Ford. He wanted an old-style look but also wanted to be able to get in and out easily, so we added swing-out door bars. He also needed to be able to remove the body from the frame, so we bolted the cage to pads welded to the frame and sandwiched the body between the mounting plates and the frame pads.

 

Lookin good! I bet I know what kind of bender you did these on.

 

Road America this weeknd!

 

A couple pics of the roadster's 2 1/2" x .120 wall 4 point roll bar.

The large diameter chosen for it's strength characteristics.
Pretty much a roll bar for street use and it's tall enough to be of use.

It's chrome plated, but the chrome is only on the exposed top hoop.
The four legs are painted gloss black and out of sight in the trunk.






At the drags.
Should give you an idea of how much roll bar clearance over helmet height.
(Couldn't find the right pic, this is as close as I could get.)


One of the "tricks" is to get the seat bottom cushion down low enough to get out of the wind and you'll have sufficient clearance below the roll bar.

A thinner and more leaned back cushion helps also.

 

here ya go... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269648

 

Working on this today. Still have to poke rear bars through body to bed and lower cross and side bar another inch. You can see dune buggy tilt to allow entry if you click on 2nd pic. Angle iron column mount came with body and will go. I'll add a strap to cowl bar brace to hold pillow block and a large strap to hold reversed Corvair box.