I'm repairing hail damage on my '62 Impala with bondo. One of my friends says that he has had success heating the area with a propane torch and then dropping in rosin core solder. He says that it can then be sanded and smoothed like lead. Has anyone tried this? Why wouldn't it work?
I don't think we're talking about a lot of heat though, just enough to make the solder stick to it. I believe he was still melting the solder into it with a heat source rather than heating the metal to red hot and then sticking the cold solder into it.
I had my brand new OT/DD for 18 hrs and then got caught in a 1-2" hail storm. 32 dents in the hood 17 in the fenders 50+ in the roof. Dent wizard took them all out for $500. took the whole day to do it. ZERO paint work. perfect.!!! I have also heard that you can pop them with frozen pennies, have a look on google
I'm not sure how well paint and primer would stick to rosin core solder. I would use straight lead and tin. also the solder won't stick unless the substrate is heated.
Depending on the size of the dents, you could use a soldering iron as I have. (less possibility of over-heating). And yes, rosin core solder is lead.
When you just heat solder and drop it onto something you get whats called a cold solder joint and it has very poor adhesion. The proper way to solder is to heat the object and flow the solder into it. Why not just do it right? Mike.
I also agree. You don't want flux on a surface that is to be painted, and it's not necessary on clean steel. Use pure lead.
well if your not making a pc or a radio out of it the cold solder joint prolly want affect any transfer of rf or current but its funny you would bring that up on a dent fix ? ive never ever heard of a cold solder joint when referring to lead body work... Dave
It ain't quite that easy. Proper lead work starts by "tinning" the metal which insures a good bond and not a cold joint. Then the filler lead is heated and fused to the lead that has already formed a bond in the "tinning" process. You can use lead to repair the dents but it ain't easy and that is why bondo has replaced lead among other things. I don't profess to be a lead man but I've read a lot and tried it a few times. I've got all the paddles and bees wax. If you could just drop it on a hot panel there would be a lot more guys doing it. Body lead used to be 70/30. Plumbing solder was 50/50 and some was 95/5. Some places have outlawed 50/50 solder. I don't know what the break down is on rosin core solder now a days but it ain't the same stuff. If it sounds too good to be true...it is.
rosin core solder is lead No, "lead" is tin/lead solder, but a different proportion. Electrical is typically 60/40, bodywork lead is 30/70. Yes, the core will prevent paint bond. The fender has to be heated or nothing sticks.
i've done small dents with solid core 70/30 solder(no acid or rosin). You just have to tin the metal first. If I were going to use a solder with a core, I would lean towards the acid core, just make sure you neutralize it when you're done.
Even if it does work, what would be the benefit of doing it instead of using body filler? The amount you'd use I would think would be staggering for a hail damage job.
I agree, that lead work is lead work regardless of the source. Body solder and plumbing solder are the same thing just a different percentage of lead and tin. You'll find that plumbing solder is harder to finish because it is harder(more tin). If you have to use roll solder, use acid core. It will tin easier and at a lower temp than rosin core. I have used acid core for touch ups in the finish work. Any way you do it, requires cleaning all flux from the surface before priming andf painting. I left out bondo because I assume you want to lead finish and don't need any.
I used acid core 30/70 and propane when i was making my air cleaners,spot welds then used it to fill the seams. has to be bare metal, you need the proper flux, it cleans the metal, don't use rosin core, used a flux meant for this type of solder. the acid cor is meant for metal, once i was done the seams were cleaned throughly with a flux remover. paint has been on em for years with no problem. in your case though, especially with thin sheet metal on a late model, the metal will probably warp. if this is a brand new car,why not get the insurance to pay for the damage?
I use a lead free solder, that is applied using the same method as lead. several small differences, none major to deal with 1) melting point between 430*-900*, works really well about 600*. 2) the .250 rod need to be heated, be for you start applying it to the surface, and the while you are applying to the surface 3) ALOT harder to file/sand than lead this product works great for use in body work, less pin holing than lead also, you will still need a light coat of a plastic type filler. best part LEAD FREE, (not that you should not wear a respirator) we get our solder, and tin from these guys http://www.johnsonmfg.com/ Here are the part numbers we use JOHNSON'S NO. 523 AUTO BODY SOLDER JOHNSON'S NO. 523 BODY TINNING PASTE they are very helpful good luck <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Why risk taking a shortcut like this? Seems like a great idea to try on somebody else's car to me! Of course, it could be a learning experience?
Rosin flux doesn't usually make much of a bond with steel. There is 70/30 rosin core solder available....the flux has little or nothing to do with the composition of the solder. Acid flux will work for steel. There's a lot of guys using "plumber's" acid flux for doing lead work, with solid solder. Tim D.
Hey, It's been my experience that using acid core solder in place of standard flux for automotive body solder (30/70 tin, lead) is a poor pratice. Acid core solder, unlike body solder has the acid mixed in between the moltin solder and the steel you are filling. This acid gets trapped below the lead fill, and can not be neturalized well. This leads to rust below the lead fill, but mostly leads to early paint failure. Always add more lead than you think you'll need to cover the damage, and always neturalize, well ,all lead acid repairs. Swankey Devils C.C. " It's time for another Tea Party ! "
That's why I didn't mention acid core solder, just acid flux. I gotta ask, though, just where you apply your flux when leading? Under the solder, right? Personally, I don't think you're going to find a cored solder heavy enough (and cheap enough) to bother using it for bodywork. Buy the sticks and you'll come out ahead. Tim D.
its hard to find plumbing solder that doesnt have a higher concentrate of tin to lead. most guys use 95/5 which is 95% tin 5% lead or even 60/40 . its hard to find anything that has higher than 50% lead. been soldering pipes for a while and i def dont think itll be wat u r looking for on a body. best bet is dent wiz it
Over the counter plumbing solders today have tin and substituted antimony for lead due to the EPA. With today's high quaility body filler available why "chance it" with solder.
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