I was working on my 8ba today and i dropped an nut into the intake manifold from the fuel pump...granted this was in the back of the engine...i did see it and was without a magnet...i have no patience....so i put a dab of grease on a stick and tried to retrieve it......at this point i did have a visual on her...so upon retrieval she dropped into the right side oil valley...i think...i am rather sure this is where it went..the aft right hand side oil valley....should i worry?...or will she just drop into the pan and be attracted by the magnetized oil drain plug...
I had this happen with a ss nut so magnet did not work. I put 5 qts of oil down the hole and the nut ended up near the clean out. Lucky I had the truck pan with large clean out. Good luck. pete
SPEEDY PETE.....you have given me hope for she is out of a truck...therefore i have the large oil pump changer clean out i call it.....damn thing she is a new motor to me....checked out to 80lbs. compression and i was gonna be damed if i was gonna break an intake bolt..(rounded off and rusted beyond vice grip action)....i could see she is rather caked up with slugde in there...so maybe i will hook up the radiator and run her...then drain the oil....may god be with me....
Best bet is to remove the pan, and start flushing the motor with oil. Hopefully it'll drop out into a drain pan and you can bolt everything back together. If it doesn't drop out the first time or two, slightly rotate the crankshaft just a tad, and keep flushing (just recycle the oil in the drain pan back through the block). Or you can see if someone you know has an optical borescpoe with a screeen to look through the motor to see if you can locate it visually. Weve got one at work and it comes in mighty handy for inspecting internals without blowing the motor apart. I personally wouldn't attempt to run it before you find the lost nut. I'd rather spend a day taking the motor apart to retrieve the nut, then put everything back together with fresh gaskets & a good bath.
TEXAS ********...YUP...that is a straight up awser to the question...that sounds the most practical answer...I DID HAVE TO SHOOT SOME 6" FLAMES OUT HER..just for 15 sec or so....don't matter that whole valley is sludge...just gonna have to break some intake studs...not looking forward to that.......
try draining your oil than use a nice strong magnet to drag the nut to the drain plug hole. If it even dropped down that far.
I did the same thing on my SBC dropped a 1/8" br*** pipe plug inside, bite the bullet,drop the pan and get it out. That way you can sleep.
39 FORD..........at least made the decision to sleep another night..it won't be too much work...maybe i'll get round to checking the valve clearances...just hate broken STUDS on the intake manifold......got any idea bout' how to deal with that............
Pull the intake - its a lot easier on a flathead than an overhead - no water to worry about. Be carefukl on the gasket, maybe you can reuse it.
i think she had a rebuild 20 yrs ago or so...just a guess...yes..i hope to salvage the intake gasket...it is the studs I am worried about..anyone know more than pb blaster...cause im there...brett
Hi Brett! I'm originally from Maine and I remember how difficult it was to get those rust-frozen nuts and bolts apart without damaging the pieces they held together. That's one of the biggest reasons I now live in Texas! I recently had to get some rust-locked and broken off studs out of an exhaust manifold...only had a half inch or so of stud to grip and they were stuck GOOD! I used heat and PB Blaster...AND A LOT OF PATIENCE...to get the job done. First I heated the exposed stud (nut in your case) to a dull red and LET IT COOL NATURALLY - DO NOT QUENCH - until I could just touch it with my fingers. Then I soaked the whole area with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. Next day I gripped the stud (nut in your case) with NEW vice grips (you'll need the sharpest little teeth you can get to properly grip the nut) and wiggled back and forth it until the teeth just began to slip - no more. If there was ANY movement of the stud (nut) I stopped immediately and re-soaked the area with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight again. I repeated this process with lots of wiggling and very little force until the stud (nut) unscrewed with only light resistence. If there was NO movement I DID NOT TRY TO FORCE IT. I took the vice grips off, re-heated and PB Blasted the stud (nut) again after letting it cool and let it sit over night again. And again. And again... Some of the studs took several treatments before they started to move, but eventually they did. I used this technique on eight rust-frozen studs and got every one of them out without damage to the manifold. The biggest thing, as Texas******** pointed out, is to just let them soak. DO NOT GET IMPATIENT. Besides, you'll still have snow on the ground until May, so what's the hurry...? Hope this helps.
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