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I need to ID a ujoint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by billshari, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. My Brookville Roadster, which I did not build, has a 9 inch rear and I need to replace the rear U-Joint. Does anyone know a way to match this up? Should I start with a certain year car or station wagon. I know this rear was used for many years.
     
  2. can you not remove your uni and take it to the auto parts store
     
  3. Yes, I'm going to the shop now to remove it.
     
  4. In the old days, 50's and 60's, the popular car and light pickup u-joint was the #369 NAPA, which fit most outside snapring, 1 1/16 caps. Late in the 60's the infidels chose to change these offerings to other various sizes which is where the complications come in. Yes, it is always best to record in a journal the belts, hoses, ***embly part numbers including u-joints numbers. I have learned that by having a notebook in the shop, as I build a car the reciepts go in the folder and any used parts are written down in a loose leaf journal with dates as it is amazing how time flies............On the road or at home this will save grief later.
     
  5. fergenboysinc
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,025

    fergenboysinc
    Member

    The NAPA numbers are the same as Precision I think. You are probably going to need a combo joint(two different sizes). That's where its going to get tough! First you need to find out witch sizes you have, then get the parts guy to get the "book" out and look in the back of the book for combination joints. Post a picture and I will take a stab at it. Don't worry....There isn't as many as you think. ;)
     
  6. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There are about three popular ones that fit that rear end. Most parts houses have a size chart and you can find them online. The ****er or Neapco joints seem to be a bit better and last longer. At any rate get a joint/cross with long thin needle bearings and not the short fat ones.
    I see you have at least one NAPA store in Key West and that is where I would head unless you have a favorite parts house to deal with.
     
  7. A 'real' parts house - as vs the blister pack stores - can usually figure it out.

    Another good way is to hit the local driveline shop and they can tell what’s up in no time.

    If you don’t have a dedicated driveline shop, most times one of the local machine shops does a lot of driveline work and they can ID it for you.

    Taking the whole driveshaft in is a worthwhile endeavor.
     

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