I want to fire this 235 up in the 59,,,got tires on it today so it rolls now.the engine was rebuilt before he drove it to its 20 year tomb.i havent tried to turn it over yet,but Im afraid to break a ring,did that once.I was going to use some Liquid wrench spray in the plug holes and try and lube the cylinders.It seems that would work better than plain motor oil..? the engine compartment in this car is very sanitary. it was well maintained,even has one of those"Milage Master" gigs you used to see in the old Jc Whittney catalogs.I figure a new set of plugs,cap,rotor,points,cond and an oil change and some fresh fuel,it should fire...keywords being "It should" I love this part!!
Just lately someone talked of using Coke... the drinking kind not the powdery stuff. I've also heard of soaking with diesel, but alot of folks swear by Kroil... Kinda depends whatya got handy. Good luck! Jay
Yes Jay, KROIL! An old timer here (78 yrs old) loaded each cyl. of a deep storage '38 Plymouth Coupe. Try it. Let it set overnight. Then 1/4 turn the motor by hand.Take your time, work the motor both direction's. As your Gov. would say "Dont' be ah girly-mahn" Use muscle.
Come's in a orange can. Black lettering. It is a bit on the high $ side. But worth it. It's slogan is: "The oil that creep's".
Wow..now thats something I have never heard of before..I can tell you that out of all the parts stores I have worked for,and thats alot! not a one ever stocked that!! See..ya learn something new every day!! looks its pretty much the same shit as Liquid Wrench though..??Am I wrong here..??
This old guy(75) that I bought my rivi from told my that there is some stuff called Blaster that you can get at Wal-Mart that will free anything. He said he has unstuck some locked up motors with it before. He said just pull the plugs and spray alot in the cylinders and let it sit overnight.
you can use marvel mystery oil also, squirt it in the cylenders as with the other oils let it sit overnight it let it do its magic. i have heard of people using gm lube also its available at chevy dealers.
I used Marvel Mystery oil in 283 in my '36. I let it soak for a week or so. This is the brand new engine (1966) that sat in the back room of a high school auto shop for 38 years. Worked like a champ. Wayno
Kroil or Marvels. I unstuck a 55 Desoto Hemi with a combination of the both. Pulled the plugs, sprayed the kroil in each plug hole, and let set over night. Next day put one quart in each side of the motor down the plug holes, another quart in the top of the heads, and two quarts down the intake. Let it sit for a day. Put a socket on the crank with just the 1/2 inch drive ratchet and it broke loose real easy. Remember to leave the plugs out of the heads, don't want liquid in the heads during the compression stroke. Liquid is incompressible. Shit may be a little pricey, but definately cheaper than a rebuild. Better to over lube, than under lube. Good Luck, and Kroil is the shit for stuck and rusted parts. Geno
This may sound silly, but growin' up in Alaska we had alot of snowmobiles that would seize up during the summer(always had really old ones ) and my dad would use coca-cola to free'em up. Let set for a day or so. I'd probably use Marvel or PB Blaster nowadays though. Just thought you might like that story. Oh and Pepsi doesn't work, not enough crap in it.
I freed my last engine up with a combination of diesel fuel and kerosene. Poured both in the spark plug holes and down the manifold let sit for a couple of days, still stuck. Got out the breaker bar, put it on the crank bolt and pounded on it with a rubber mallet, freed right up.
freed up an engine just a couple of days ago, been sitting since ´86,I used fork oil for mx bikes, and thinned it whith paint thinner,couple of hrs later,it was cranking again,now it runs just fine, no smoke,no missing.reason taht I used what I did is simple,that was what I had in the garage right then!
Rod and Custom Supply in Cape Coral, FL recommended that I use "Howes Lube." It worked great on a very stuck flathead. Standard advice. Down the plug hole/leave plugs out/wait/wait/wait/wait/pry at flywheel (looking for 1/4 inch of movement/wait/wait/pry/etc
Kroil really smells like some kind of chemical bio-hazard but it works great. Anybody ever use Really Good Shit from Walnecks, the cycle magazine? Not sure if you can get it any more because Buz Walneck sold the mag.
Kroil is hard to find in retail parts stores. There used to be a spring shop around here that sold it, and some industrial supply houses sell it, but it's easiest to order it directly from them. I believe it was originally developed for the railroad industry. It's the best "un-sticker" for rusty bolts or anything metal that is stuck together, that I have found. I hear that PB Blaster is just about as good but I have never tried it. In my opinion Kroil is a LOT better than liquid wrench.
I recently freed up a Model A four banger that had been sitting since 1985. I poured a large bottle of MM and then added diesel fuel to fill up the cyls. Let it sit for several weeks. (it was mid-winter and too f'ing cold to work in an unheated garage) Then I went by every couple of days and just hit the starter. After a couple more weeks when I hit the starter a gyser if MM and diesel hit the cieling of the garage, It spun right over. Two weeks later she started right up. Took awhile to stop the smoking but she purrs like a kitten now.
I've always used diesel and ATF, about 4 to 1. Fill the engine all the way up, tape off the dipstick hole and just keep pouring it in till it won't hold no more. Same thing with the cylinders. Leave a breaker and a socket on it, give it a tug every day.
PB Blaster works great...I used Kroil years ago and I remember it as being an incredible rust remover...Kroil is available from the manufacturer on the internet...Kano Labs??? They are in Nashville, TN, I believe.
May be an older thread, but very valuable info here. I appreciate hearing hands-on-experiences from guys who've used these products.
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