I bought about 8 actual large mother of pearl shells. Cleaned and polished. Ive heard talk about using actual mother of pearl in the mixture. I want to figure out the process as far as the consistency of the flake. Would the mother of pearl flakes (once ground down) be mixed into a clear? Alone or with additional flake? Anyone know anything about this method?
Ok. So im going to bump this back to the top in hopes of someone seeing this who might know of anything that could prove informational. I want to get ready to prep my roof, but I want to have a gameplan once im done or close to being done. Anything guys? =/
Yeah. I heard of that as well. I honestly think its very possible. I guess im just going to have to jump in head first and learn trial by error. Ill practice with one of my smaller shells and see what unfolds =)
That would be my guess- but that it's not a "flake", really- but a fine powder suspended in clear. Just like how modern pearls (Micas) are used.
They sure did, I had a jar of it back around 1975 or 76, I never used it and ended up giving it away. If you've ever seen a paint job with real gl*** you'll never forget it, it's friggin awsome. Unlike metal flake where you see the actual flake the gl*** is transparent, all you see is the sparkle.
That would be Murano pearl, which used crushed colored gl*** from the centuries old famed gl*** blowing center on the island of Murano in the Venice Lagoon. It was suspended in lead salt. I can't for the life of me think why they banned it. The pearl used in paint, I believe came from abalone shells.
With so many different tried and true custom paint products on the market, why would you want to re-invent the wheel ?
yes some did use mother of pearl shells in the way back so why would you want to do this with all the readily available flakes mini flakes, pearls ect ? well if that reason is just to do it I say give it a try on somthing first, And if it works on that go for it Im asked all the time why would I use old things, and do old methods that may take longer and not make cents to many people brazing, lead work, ect my reply is "just cuz" you can take the shells smash them carefully pick out the mother of pear and put it in a coffee grinder untill a fine powder that should work
I dont think it would be reinventing the wheel. I feel that if youre going to do a custom paint job with a custom color on a cl***ic cadillac turning custom. Why not go against the grain and do something cool like use real MOP shells? Sure its obviously more practical and convenient to just go buy a can of roth or HOK flakes/pearl. Id rather kick it old school. That way when im at a show and people ask me about the pearl top I will have an interesting story to tell them. Not to mention that it will set the paint job apart from any other pearl tops out there =)
I guess you could use a series of screens to ensure the bits are of similar size. I used a nason 2002 toyota black cherry pearl and its real pretty. I don't know what they ACTUALLY use for the pearl, but it is nice and sprays well. I think consistency would be difficult to achieve with a coffee grinder. I can't get my coffee beans to all be consistent.
I'm guessing your problem will be wetting out the particles at a level smaller than the eye can see. First thing you'll need is a mortar & pedestal to grind the shell into flour. Don't scrimp and try to use a hammer & bag or some halfway ****. Then you'll need an intermediate step to wet the flour, cause it's not gonna wet out at the viscosity the gun likes. Take a small amount of highly thinned paint or just plain old reducer. Slowly add & stir in the flour. DO NOT just throw in the clump and start stirring. Small amount of flour slowly sprinkled as it's stirred, stir til it's thoroughly dispersed & wetted, sprinkle a little more flour, if it starts to thicken thin the mix back down. If you have questions, ask the best cake baker in your family how they add flour to the mix. They'll explain what you gotta do to your paint. This is fundamental stuff when adding powders to liquids, and is extra important since you don't have fancy wetting agents that pre-made products have. Now you've made your additive and it's time to risk a couple hundred dollars worth of material. I think you'll find when it comes to fancy paint effects, old **** just won't compete with modern products in a true side by side comparison. Good luck!