HEMI Tech- Transmission adapters, flywheels, starters

Thanks to all who have posted info here...this is great stuff for the ignorant adn un-intiated like myself...

I'm looking for a early hemi and was a bit leary about the extended bell's but after reading all this I think it's not as bad I had thought. Definetly an option now!!

 

this is for my 54 desoto 276

heres how i plan to make my own adapter, i start with my stock auto bellhousing and starter spacer, i'll mill off .25" from the rear of the starter spacer, .063" from the front of the bellhousing, .093" from the rear of the bellhousing, that will give me .375" between the front of the trans and the rear of the bellhousing, i'll make my adapter from 1/2" plate, that will allow me to turn a lip 1/8" to fit snug into the auto bellhousing, and in the center of that lip i'll bore the hole to locate the trans, this will keep all correct locations for the trans, spline, disk and flywheel, if anyone sees something i over looked please speak up.

 

If I buy a Wilcap Kit to adapt a 200-4R to my DeSoto, what starter do I use...a DeSoto starter or a Chevy starter?...

 

I believe you use a late model chrysler starter for the wilcap or HHH adapters.

 

Yes I believe you are correct, if it's an extended bell motor. From what I've read the starter mounts to the lower bellhousing piece...the bellhousing on the extended bell motor is a two piece set-up.

But you have to be careful with the starters since there was different locations and tooth counts etc depending on year and aplication. You will need to use a starter that is originally designed for the application of your motor.

Again I'm still a newbie to all this but this is what I understand from all the reading I have been doing.

 

The chevy auto adapters come with flexplates made to fit late model chrysler starters. The OG starters wont cut it.

 

Well from all the threads I've been reading a fair number of guys have been running the original 6 volt starters with the modern 12 volts systems. The just spin twice as fast and as long as you don't have to crank the motor excesively the starters seem to hold up. But you do need a good starter for this...no junkyard crap.

 

So the Early starters will mesh with the tooth count of the new flexplates? I'm pretty sure that the flexplates they supply with the chevy auto adapters wont fit early starters. Maybe someone could chime in?

 

Says right on the site....66-96 Chrysler starter. I got one for a 318

 

This is correct. There are quite a few people that run their starters at 12 volts it will spin faster. HOWEVER, there is something you need to be aware of if you're going to do this. Make sure that engine fires in a reasonable amount of time with this setup. The starters were not designed to handle the extra heat associated with running them at 12 volts for a longer period of time. If you're not careful you may burn it up. It can be done though and IS being done all the time.

For my extended bell starter I'm going to have it rewound for 12 volts and I'll probably find another one to be rewound to 12 volts as well so I can have a back up to throw in the car with me.

Very cool to see some of you starting to make you're own adapters. Keep us posted! Do a tech or step by step on what you've done and post a link to the thread here. I'm sure there are a lot of people that would like to attempt this and have the tools/tooling to do so.

 

I had a solenoid that when engaged refused to release, As I was franticly (spelling?) trying to disconnect the positive from the starter with it spinning away it melted a side post out of the battery. I got a different solenoid and the starter is fine.

 

With a stick-shift trans, do you really need to carry along a spare starter?

 

I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if this question has been asked and answered already.

So here goes: I am now the proud owner of a 330 DeSoto Hemi (thanks OverKillPhil for everything), is it ok to run the S-10 version of the T-5 behind it, or does it require the hefty-er Mustang version?

Again, sorry if you guys have already covered this.

 

It all depends how you build the 330 and what sort of traction you have. The s10 t5 sure isn't the strongest and the 330 can make some serious torque but, for example, if you are running skinny old bias plys you'ld probably be ok.

 

Yea Kerry, I will be running the old bias ply tall tires. Thanks for the reply.

If I decide to use the rustang version of the T-5 at a latter date, will I have trouble making the spline on the trany match up to the spline coming out of the block? Or, are there adapters for this too? I assume there are also adapters for the S-10 to Hemi spline differences as well?

Thanks in advance for any and all information.
Michelle

 

The splined part is on the friction disk. Simple to change. The question is the diameter of the pilot at the tip of the input shaft the same between the two transmissions.

Is your crank bored at the end for a pilot bushing/bearing? You said a Desoto so it probably is, automotive versions of the Chryslers rarely are.

 

The input shaft splines are matched to the splines in the clutch disc.

For any of the 'normal' blocks, you will need the following parts:
1. Block adapter (to mount an existing OEM bellhousing) and
2. Bellhousing of you choice (whatever you can find an adapter for)
OR a bellhousing designed specifically to mate engine to trans.
3. Flywheel ( must be compatible to the chosen bellhousing)
4. Starter ( must be compatible to both flywheel and bellhousing)
5. Pressure Plate ( must fit on the flywheel) and
6. Clutch Disc (must fit within the PP and the splines must match the transmission input shaft)
7. Throw-out bearing and linkage
8. Pilot bearing (very few EarlyHemis have a drilled crank)


Yes, these are the 'hi-lites'...each of the required items can generate a couple of pages of discussion.

.

 

Kerry, it looks like the block and trans have never been seperated, so I don't really know how to answer that, other than to say there's a high probability it is totally stock.

Thanks guys for your help, Kerry and 73RR.
Michelle

 

Pics of my trans adapter, flywheel and hub, then bolted to block.
Made all this shit from a wilcap "Doner"....
Chevy auto adapter w/ starter moved to Pass. side.......

 

Here's some discussion on adapting a 727 to a 354:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=333208

 

OMFG!

You are my hero!

~Jason

 

Just ordered 51-53 331 Hemi adapter to 727/518 from Hot Heads. I plan on keeping the motor and trans in the 52 Saratoga for the time being with a long-term goal of coming across the right 30's Chrysler/Dodge project to transplant the motor/drivetrain into. Will more than likely be converting to 12 volt (6 volt running an 8 volt battery now with some scary wiring) at the same time. So, for now, I'm just gonna cruise the hell out of the car. Will upload pics when we do the swap if that would help anyone.

 

I want to run a A833OD behind my extended bell and as Wilcap stated earlier on in this thread there is a good chance my pilot shaft hole in my crank is the same size as the input shaft on the A833....3/4".

So I guess my question is this then, can I have the crank milled out to a bigger ID to accomadate a bearing or bushing or do I need to have the tip of the input shaft on the tranny milled down to fit within the hole.

And what pilot shaft bushings are you guys using? Especially on the extended bells with a manual tranny.

 

My engine was an industrial so the crank was machined for a pilot bearing, not a bushing. I just went to the bearing store and got what I needed.

 

I may come into a real A-833 bellhousing extremely soon. That should solve the majority of my bolt-on problems. And yeah, I have a pre-drilled crank, too off of the IND56 I got from Paul.

~Jason

 

If your crank is out then re-drilling is an easy step, any parts house will have a bushing and the crank guy will have the required dimension. If the crank is a stock passenger car piece it is not likely drilled !
Now, if your engine is assembled the the best approach is to use the sealed roller bearing that Mother Mopar started using about 10 years ago. In the oem design, the bearing presses into the lip on the late crankshaft, but of course, the early crank flange does not have a lip of this type, so we cut an aluminum bushing to press into the centre of the early flywheel and then press the bearing into the bushing. With our trans adapter package, the bearing simply presses into the centre of the crank flange adapter just as it does with the late crankshaft.
If my *#@!!!»☻ scanner was working I would post some pics, but....


Gary

 

....still working on the scanner issue, here is a pic of the bushing in the flywheel:



Gary

 

Abomination started a thread on bolting an A833, Mopar manual 4-speed behind a standard, Chrysler Hemi block. Maybe this will help someone...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341349

 

Hey guys forgive me if I'm just thick, but I'm still confused about the manual trans adapter for the extended bell Hemi. Mine is a 53 and I don't have a trans for it yet, but from what I've read above, there still may be some fabrication involved for the throw out bearing arm to work. Something about cutting into the starter housing, etc. I called Hot Heads (didn't get a name of who I talked to) and he said that a 55-61 Chevy throw out bearing arm would work fine, and that they do not know of any extra fabrication needing to be done. Has anyone done this, or knows this to be true? I've tried to do my research before posting. I'd like to put my mind at ease for when the time comes to mount a trans. Sorry if this has been answered.

 

There's a simple way to handle this.... Hydraulic throwout bearing. No arm needed, no slave cylinder needed. Little more money if you buy a Mcleod, but is a great way to go if you are limited on space (like in a channeled car), or if you just want to simplify the whole mess.

However, an arm made be used with some modifications. You will have to cut the cast-in bellhousing to allow for the arm. I think Bob Bleed did this in the Mad Fab II video for Tuck's roadster.

If it were me, I would run a good quality hydraulic type and just be done with it. But that's just me.