what to do fist on a flat head rebuild

Hello all,
I am trying to start a rebuild of a 1951 ford flat head. I have already dismantled it (nasty oh boy), and found a shop to do the machining part of the rebuild. The machinist told me to try and get the parts for the valve train and cam together so he can get the hard part of the ***embly done for me. So I started looking for stuff and realized that I don't now jack about picking out the right stuff.
What do I <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0">need to know about the bore size? I knew that pistons have different bore sizes and was ready for that and would have to wait to order those till the cylinders were cut. Does the bore for the cam get recut as well? How about the lifters or crank? <O</v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f>
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Should I wait till the block gets cut before I buy any thing. I kind wanted to get stuff basically $200 at a time (self imposed allowance.) This would mean I would have to get most of the valve train before I took it to the shop. And there is where Say #@$%!!!!!.<O></O>
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What should this newbie do?<O></O>
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I would pick up a copy of Ron Bishop's book "Rebuilding the Famous Ford Flathead". It is very helpful. There are also some very good Tech on the board if you go to the search function. Last but not least. I think Street Rodder just did an article in the latest issue about "Flathead Myth's" it's worth picking up also. Hope I at least pointed you in the right direction.

 

don't hurt your "fist"

 

Go to someplace like Red's Headers (new owner, I hope still a good guy!) and look over kits of parts, like complete valve setup. Read "Engine talk" from end to end.
Flatheads are big enough again that there are some really bad lifters and guides and things available, and you want to seek out a supplier who you can at least hope has done some careful selecting rather than just ordering the cheapest source. Valve stuff should be a safe purchase before machine work, but perhaps most important would be to buy pistons before machine work so they can be fitted to bore.

 

If it's at the machine shop, I would concentrate on the bottom end stuff first. I'll ***ume your sticking with the stock crank? 3 3/4"... well if you intend to bore it out, I would recommend only going to 3 5/16 to start with and I would buy my pistons and rings before the final bore and hone were complete.

Next you will probably need to cam bearings, and a new cam. Since your not going very big cubic inch wise, you probably want to stay with a fairly mild after market cam, or you could have the stock cam reground to your desired specs. Then you can worry about lifters springs etc...

Once you have the bottom end ***embled, you should be able to take it home and get the heads and intake yourself as time allows.

Lastly, if your budget is $200 at a time, you ar going to have to become real good a scrounging, doing favors and trading to get a whole lot for a flathead. Most of the new stuff to fairly pricey, and most people who have stuff think it's gold.

 

Ron's book is perhaps the single best. Also search out Rumbleseat's online book. Do nort align bore unless there is a provable disaster down there, do not cut decks unless demonstrably warped. A big thing--do not discard anything til engine is running. Recently, someon on one of the boards went nuts looking for oddball oversize cam bearings...and the shop had discarded the originals, which are rarely worn out.

 

First, the block should be cleaned and checked for cracks. Many/most have cracks that run from the exhaust runners of the middle cylinders (the siamese ports) up to/through the exhaust valve seats or the cylinders themselves. Many cracks can be repaired, but that's another topic. Next, the machinist should tell you how far he needs to cut the cylinders to true them up which will dictate the oversize of your pistons. Then you buy the pistons and the machinist will bore to match.

The extent of a rebuild is a function of your wallet. You can replace everything, or you can measure tolerances and repair/replace as necessary. If this guy has flathead experience he should tell you what he recommends.

There are plenty of suppliers for parts. Go to Egge, Mac's, Red's Headers and some others online and you can shop prices.

 

#1. Spel first rite!
#2. Read all you can stand about flatheads.
#3. Make sure your machinist has flathead experience.
#4. Be sure your block is sound and fit to build.
#5. Proceed just as if it were an engine!

 

And...once you have dis***embled the original valvetrain, everything else you ever do will look easy...

 

spell ,spell right

 

Mike51Merc gives some pretty solid advice for starting a rebuild on any engine.

Find out if the block is good or if it needs repairs to make it good.
Figure out what overbore is needed to be able to order the pistons.
Decide which cam meets your planned driving needs. Don't put in too much cam.

If it were mine, I'd buy the pistons and get the bore done and then buy the cam and lifters . He needs the cam and lifters early in the build as the lifters go in from the bottom before the cam goes in and it is a lot easier without the crank in place.

Amazon shows a stack of how to do the flathead books and the one recommended above is on there. A good how to do it right book is the first thing a guy needs in any build.

 

Amen to that. And if you don't buy adjustable lifters expect adjusting the valves to take a real effort.

 

Block check and OK'd first and foresmost. Don't buy a thing (unless it's a killer deal) until you get that OK.

If your block is good, then plan to start spending your $200 chunks until you let go of $4-$6K if you want all the goodies: After machine work and rebuild rods, etc. then comes finned heads, pistons, good cam, bearings, adjust. lifters, alum. flywheel, decent clutch, etc.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I went to Albertsons visited hot babe at the pharmacy and then went straight to the mags and bought the Street Rodder issue you mentioned Thanks for the heads up. I am going to look into getting Ron's book later on tonight

 

Red's Headers got it saved in the favorites will read as I get a chance.

 

Visiting pretty girls at Albertson's and taking flathead advice from Inline guys, what is rodding coming to?

 

Never a truer word was spoken!

 

Thanks, to every one who offered help, I will do take the advice and run with it.

 

First have block hot tanked and then look for cracks. If no cracks from valve to cylinders
or from stud holes to cylinders have block pressure tested for hidden cracks.I went through four blocks before the fifth p***ed.