Is any one running a straight six in a 1920's 1930's rod?? any pictures? Problems youve encountered?? I'm running one but feel like i have no leg room in my front.
I had a GMC 6 in my '32 Ford coup. Yes it cramped my style. It was OK when I was younger and thinner. Not good now.
I am running a 250ci in my early chevy with the hood but my feet feel like they are working around the bellhousing. Can you guys post some front interior photos
Im running a ford 300 I6 in a 33 ford pickup, had to run an automatic, c6. No leg room for 3 pedals and a steering column. I think the look is awesome. Setting it up for webers and lake pipes.
300 six with a 4 speed in a 23 Dodge built the frame to fit the engine, and a 1/4 eliptical front I'm big and have lots of room. Ended up a little long but I like it. pics on my profile
I'm using a 1960 Jaguar engine and trans in my latest project. The extra length of the engine and the overdrive unit on the trans is proving to be a real bitch. The 100" wheelbase is getting really crowded. I may end up adding a couple of inches to the hood and stretching the wheelbase.
yep, same consideration i ran into right off the bat on my 29 tudor. wanted to keep the factory firewall. also wanted an exaggerated "cartoony" appearance so it was another element to the look. stretched the frame 20 inches(!!!) problem solved.
Much as I hate making extra work, as well as cutting up a relic, stretching the wheelbase is a good idea. Not only does it look more impressive - long hood, long fender line to the door - but it also moves the CG back (by moving the body back) so you have some traction, which is what most big V8 rods don't have enough of. Also helps your driveshaft angle and U-joint life, improves ride quality, more room to hide that big exhaust system. In theory, you should correct the Ackerman at the front but IMHO it's not important for what most of them will do. Since few of the rails are parallel at this point, some engineering is needed to make a smooth transition, and this will vary depending on whether your rails are exposed or covered by the hood sides, etc. The actual joint need not weaken the frame if done properly (material equal or greater thickness to stock rails, plus a few tie pieces), but the length does reduce the stiffness considerably. Example: assuming there is no vertical member (the entire frame is almost flat as seen from the side), a 100" wheelbase stretched 20" to 120" (about like a full-size GM car) is only 58% as stiff (and even less if you use the measurement between spring perches). The best cure for this is to add height at the rear connection between the rail and the extension (it should be in the center of the spring base, but that's not where you're working); with any luck you can either hide it or make it the basis for a hoop under the cowl (it doesn't have to be visible to help as a roll bar - anything is better than none). A simple triangular truss about 1 foot long, rail width and 2" taller than the rail is a big help.
Dude if memory serves this was all covered a year ago on one of your other build threads. It is what it is. Either your car has a long hood & engine compartment, or the engine intrudes into the passenger compartment. Power is only one reason people seek V8s, the other part is many cars can't swallow a straight six. It's right there in front of you man. It is what it is. Either it fits or it doesn't. The marque of an experienced builder is knowing when to bite the bullet and accept the current plan isn't working. Regardless how many resources have been sunk into the current plan. Maybe the answer's a V8, maybe it's a longer frame & hood, maybe it's just living with it and understanding the next build has more up-front planning. good luck
It is a boat-tail speedster project inspired by 1920's-40's Indy and Grand Prix type racers. I hope to get a lot more done this weekend. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339315&highlight=roofus
The original engine that came with the 32 was a straight 6 and it puzzles me that the 32 should have as much trouble swallowing another straight 6. But your right i should look for a v8
I'm putting a 235 in my modified project. Don't have any pics right now. I need to mod the frame some as I don't like a particularly long front end. May sink some into the firewall, but not sure how it will interfere with my 3 carb intake.
I bet if you put the original engine next to that 250 it'd make the 250 look like a big block. Same thing for the transmissions.
My Essex was originally put together with a poorly mounted slant-6. There is no legroom at all in the truck (to a point of being physically painful to drive) so I plan to yank the 6 and drop in a V8. FWIW, I didn't build the truck. Even I won't build anything quite this ugly under the hood.
I don't have any pics with me sitting in it, but here's a few shots of the interior. This thing has far less room in it than my old t-bucket. Notice that the throttle pedal is closer to the seat than the brake pedal. My left foot gets jammed under the brake pedal and my right leg rubs against the shifter. My chiropractor loves it when I drive the truck more than an hour. However, I can gain at least 10" of legroom for my right leg by moving the firewall forward to the stock location.
Jeebus^^^^^^^^what a 70s abortion! Lose the buckets build a bench with some med-hi density foam and get your ass back about 12" with those mods! I have watched you post about that thing but just do it man!~
I'm running a Ford 200 I-6 in my 1920 "T" Bucket. I used a longer '27 frame to have room for an in-line motor.
Don't hold back, tell me what ya really think! I've already picked up a mini-van seat to modify and install once it warms up a bit more. No heat in the garage sucks! I'm also going to cut down the brake pedal pad to give me a bit more room for my left foot. I have a shit-load of changes that I want to make to the truck but money is very tight right now (no job) so some of them may have to wait. The seats will get done though, and I plan to build a new and smaller shifter console as well.
No man, dont even mess with a mini van seat! Just talk to an interior guy and build one frome scratch. you will save tons of room!
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