Currently I have a four post lift that was going to go in the shop that we just built, however there just isn't going to be enough room for it. The alternative a 2post. The Problem: the 2 posters have to be mounted directly into the cement. I've got radiant-flooring in the shop, for the cold Wisconsin winters, and can safely drill down 3 inches before risking hitting a tube. The hoist guys say that it needs to be anchored at least 4.5 inches deep. And of corse I didn't pour a dead zone...no planning ahead here. What Should I do? One guy told me to use some steel plate to enlarge the base of the hoist, thus spreading out the area and then not anchoring so deep, but the hoist guy said it wasn't recommended. Any Ideas guys? Thanks, Drew
I would suggest saw-cutting the required footing area (24"x 24" or larger, based on mfg. recommendations?), repairing/re-routing the radiant tubing, then pouring a proper footing (minimum 12"deep, with anchors half that depth). Be sure to epoxy in the new footing to the existing slab with appropriate anchors horizontally. I know, you don't want to disturb the radiant heating, but it's not that big a deal to do if you cut carefully and use the proper splice fittings. This may sound like overkill, but believe me, this is MINIMUM you want for a two poster. The slab depth is probably not appropriate for the anchors even without the radiant heat, and the slab was probably poured at 2500 psi max, and I would use 4500 psi for the footing. P.S. - I am the Building Official for the city here, and I see this done (properly and improperly!) often.
I don’t see why a wider base with more anchors at 3” wouldn’t be sufficient. I’m sure there’s an engineer on here that’ll show me the error of my ways though.
I had to have my floor x-rayed to find the tubing. I was told that was the only way,it did though leave enough room for the hoist bases to be fitted
show us you cajones..just drill those suckers..havent you ever taken a chance in your life......ok you know im just razing you..i wouldnt do it either without knowing call Mrs Dig..i had them out to my facility and they were able to tell me (pretty accurately) where and how deep an electical line was at. what is the radiant heat tube made of? hope it isnt PVC? oh yeah..stick to the MFG's recomendations and engineering on the bolting and all..you dont need a liability issue later. use their pattern and their depth..trust me on this one dont go fucking around with their engineering..if you do and something happens..you will not have a leg to stand on...maybe litterealy..no leg to stand on
Looking at the same problem with a 4 inch slab and water lines, was thinking on one side to use 45 degree lateral braces to help hold it in check. the unit I am looking at is big beam with large mounting flanges all the way around, post , elbow, crosstop piece n down other side same way. I wonder if extra steel plate on other side without braces is enough of a mount
"And of corse I didn't pour a dead zone...no planning ahead here." Did you plan enough depth in the first place? I am not an engineer but work in the structural steel business so my question is how thick is the concrete in this area? If it is not at least the recommended thickness then do what Vagas Paul said. If you are thicker then recommended then you can think about alternates. The recommended thickness is also given as a solid depth without hollow piping in it. That will need to be taken into consideration also.
ok when i said x-ray i was being general I think its some sort of radar they use that shows everyting under or in the slab. they marked out where the lines were in relation to the hoist legs and voila--one hoist and still got heat in the floor
Thanks for the input so far guys. The tubing is the the common thick-walled plastic tubing that I got through a plumber friend that does this alot. The floor also has been epoxy coated, its so nice I just hate to take a cement saw to it...But. Also when the cement guy first poured the floor he put in a drain that was pitched like the grand canyon! We had to have an extra 2 inches of that special strengthened thin concrete added on top just to get it level. So maybe I've got a little more to work with and am just being chicken.? I think my next step is to crank up the heat and use a laser thermometer to try and find the lines.
voids can be located very accurately I have had Dams ultra sounded or Geo..sounded and they were able to locate the smallest of voids..its done with sound waves or Ground Penetrating radar..thats what we used on the last dam we grouted
Give me the four post and 2 post lift and I'll give you a brand new jack and 4 jack stands! I doubt they can x-ray. That requires film be placed on the other side of the structure being looked at so it must be ultrasound.
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