well started on the rebuild of the 235 for the 53 today. Will post on my progress as I go along. Also I am goning to put power brakes on it I have a master cylinder for the fire wall, is there any tricks that I need to know to put it in a 53/54 chevy car?
after pulling the engine, then the head I discovered it has been bored 40 over. But I have a question about the cam I am putting in it, will I have to put in shorter lifters and pushrods? Grandpa is helping with the build and he said that if I use the cam it will put the valves into the tops of piston's. its a 254 degree lift cam from patricks. is this going to be a problem or am I going to be able to use it?
The truck that's pictured is a '54. You shouldn't need to wory about valve to piston clearances on anything with 268 degrees gross duration or less, unless the head has been milling significantly, or the block has been decked. Even so, 254 is pretty mild... Lifters and pushrods should be fine size-wise. BUT, being a '54 motor, you need to make sure that the lifters you are using are compatable with the camshaft, as they changed the materials on the cam and lifters going into 1955. Most '54 motors are large journal, like 55-62 versions. If the cam is intended for the later motors, and you want to keep the milkcan lifters, you would want a set for a 1955 motor.
I think his point was that the motor CAME from a 54 and is a 54 model motor with the later style lifters.
actually the truck is a 55. I am using the later style lifters. they are not the milk bottle shape seen here.
The milk bottle lifters are chilled iron and normally go with a steel cam.The cast iron cam uses the V-8 style lifter.Some say it matters,some say it doesn't.
When you are done with the 55, send it my way! I've got a '56 235 that we could drop in and drive! Love those trucks. I hope these guys keep posting good info. I didn't know about the lifters and such. We'll probably do a 235 next year.
just a update. got it in, but can't get it started. I think there is a problem in the fireing order or timing can seem to figure it out.
well "it's won't start" doesn't tell much, but here's what I would check. And my brother and I JUST finished a '61 235 in his '39 chevy and there weren't any starting problems really. first check spark - take the distributor cap off and turn the engine over.. You should see small spark between the points when they open. Make sure a gap does appear between the points when it p***es a lobe on the distr. shaft. If there is a spark put the cap on, take out one plug. Keep the dist. wire on the plug and hold the plug against the block and turn it over, you should see spark at the plug. If there was no spark at the distributor, check the wire from dist. to coil. Should be on NEG side of coil. Check wire on pos side of coil make sure it is getting voltage. If unsure, jump it straight to pos bat terminal and try to start it. If all that checks out, then move on to timing. Does it even try to start? or just spin there forever. If timing is out it will at least backfire and pop, but not run. Set the timing pointer on p***enger side of bellhousing to the BB in the flywheel. Make sure you are on top dead center.. first cyl at top and valves are closed. If all that is good, then check fuel.. Easiest thing is just dribble some fuel in the carb and it should try to fire, possibly even run for a short time.. There's lots more to check, but without knowing what does and doesn't work it would take all day to list the things to look at. Update us when you check some things and we can go from there.
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