How much should a flathead starter rebuild cost?

I feel like I'm getting taken advantage of. I took my 49 ford v8 flathead starter in to a guy to get rebuilt. I was recommended this guy. The guy who recommended me told me it should cost about $100. I was foolish and didnt ask for a price when I dropped it off. He told me he was making it high torque, keep on 6 volt. He's done and price is $211.

I can buy a brand new starter from MAC's for $170, or get a rebuilt one for $150 with core.

How much should this be? I'm tryin to support the local guy but this seems a bit high. His re****al was "do you even know how expensive parts are?"

 

I wouldn't pay the extra charge to make it high torque as you never asked for that. ***uming the starter only needed brushes and bearings, the parts cost is $6 TOTAL (current prices from Mac's). I had mine rebuilt locally for $130, but was really disappointed. My first clue was the $hitty spray bomb paint job. I took it apart when I got it home and it looked like the only thing he did was put in new brushes. I would have at least replaced the bearings if I was doing it myself. I'd have gladly paid $200 if he'd blasted and painted the case, done a Megger check, painted the windings with Glyptol, and turned the armature.

 

You have just been bent over. Just rebuilt a starter for a 60 ford 223 six for a guy and it cost $14 for new brushes and bearings. Took about a half hour to clean it and put it back together. Not sure about flatty starters, but it is just an electric motor.

 

He asked me if I wanted high torque, I said I want it work well, be 6volt, stock. He said "ok I'll just make it high torque". And apparently he also painted it. $211?

So how should I handle this? Tell him to sell it to me for $150 or tell him to just keep it? He's apparently been in the business for 30 years.

 

I go to an old junkyard where the guy rebuilds them. He has shelves full--$45.00 exchange--1 year gurantee.

 

If he said he will make it high torque, I'd take that to mean that he was changing parts at additional cost to a run of the mill "rebuild". A rattle can rebuild with new brushes and polish the commutator can be quite different from a high torque conversion. We have no way of knowing what he replaced and any other parts from you starter (like a bendix) that needed replacement. I paid slightly over a 100 bucks over 10 years ago from a professional shop to do a standard rebuild.

A reputable shop should be able to list the parts and your costs for those parts along with the labor that they charge. A professional shop with all the test equipment will always be more than a back yard mechanic. I have a feeling that if you take out the high torque parts, their price will be closer to 2009 prices. Compare apples to apples.

 

I understand. I'm sure I'll get an itemized list, I just wish he told me that a high torque would cost so much more. It's not like it takes a lot to turn a flathead over, I dont know why high torque was necessary. How much more should that cost?

 

Please don't take offense but the first thing that I would have asked is how much more for the high torque? 20 bucks..I'd say go for it. 80 bucks and I'd have to decline. Once you opted for the up grade, I don't think that you can come back and say that it is too much. JMHO as a one time repair shop owner.

 

I had starting problems with my '40 Coupe with a mild built flatmotor . Got the starter rebuilt with new parts , tested , local , pro job , about $165 2 years ago for High Torque . Thought a High Torque starter would be the cure for hard starts with a warm or higher compression motor . Turns out when the motor was built and reinstalled , the battery ground strap was hooked to the heater outlet on the firewall that has a rubber grommet and was not grounded very well . The High Torque starter sure spins nice when its warm or hot though ........Z.

 

I sure hope you got a good kiss when it was over, because you got the screwing of your life. My flathead starter was rebuilt for thirty bucks.

 

$125 here for a 6V dodge flat 6 starter. Looks and works brand new, new starter drive and everything.

 

I typically pay $30 plus parts for a starter rebuild. I do not think I have ever paid more than about $80 for a rebuild, and that time I had to have a whole new case. Typically I get out for $45-$60.

 

seems alittle high, theres a guy here that rebuilds them with new bearings, brushes, sand blasts and paints the case for 60-90 bucks. I would have asked for a price first though. Seems that it wasn't really his fault on this deal. Now if you would have asked the price and he quoted you one price and said another, then I could see a problem.

 

We had a local auto electric shop owner come to our carclub meeting once, and show us the difference of how his rewinds/rebuilds look compared to Autozone type off the shelf stuff. It was amazing. You get what you pay for. Maybe the cheap stuff will work fine and last for a few years, but if it's done correctly you are looking at maybe a twenty year life expectancy. Do the math. It is "value", not "cost" that matters.

 

That sounds a bit stiff. I'd be asking for an itemized list of exactly what he did and what he replaced.

It's one of those "note to self" things that almost every one of us who have been playing with cars have had to deal with at some time in our working on cars. I think there are few of us around who haven't been with at least one bill for some repairs that seem exorbitant at some time or other.

The electrical shop I deal with http://www.smithae.com/ do a lot of business with guys who ups their stuff into them. They may not be the cheapest but they do quality work and the owner is an old car guy. Their turn around time is good too.

 

Um had mine rebuilt monday for $15. Installed it wednesday and it worked great. I think anything over $50 is a rip off unless it needed a ton of parts.

 

You asked for the work to be done, so pay for the work you asked for.
$211 = the cost of a lesson learned for not asking "how much more will the high torque version cost"

 

I would say **** it up and pay the man - you should have asked before he started about the cost of it. at least you will know the starter will be as good as it can be.

sounds like your getting confused between someone changing brushes, bearings and giving it a cheap rattle can paint job and someone doing a quality rebuild on it.

I would rather have the rebuilt one than buy new from somewhere like macs. If you buy a new high torque mini starter they are $210 from the likes of speedway.

 

How do you 'High-Torque' a 6 volt starter??? The high torque starters available today are GEARED, not 'rewound' to my knowledge...
But it sounds like this individual has felt the pressure of our 'change', and is ignoring the guidelines set forth by the legal contingent. This is clearly a violation of Contract Law;
The Bureau of Automotive Repair is the one to mention to him: he is required to have a sign posted with their info on his wall.
They require a work order with a signed estimate (signed by you) which covers any and all work to be done, and if there are any additional repairs, they must be pre-approved by you, per phone call with do***ented time of phone call, etc.
If not, the bureaucrat will order him to reach an agreeable settlement with you, or he will get a 'strike', (or a fine, if this is a repeated offense)
San FRancisco area is 'well-sanctioned' by this agency. These guys wish they were FBI.

 

How can a 6 volt starter with oem type parts be made into a hi torque ? I would think ya got screwed but if you agree to a price including a bunch of blue sky BS you are liable to pay for it, then find out how to fix it. small claims will solve any BS on venders part, what he did, what was replaced, how he can make something stock into something it aint ever gonna be. Lesson # 1 be as smart as who you are dealing with and make sure that your problem is in fact the starter n not something else

 

I took my 51 ford pickup atarter to a little electric shop in C0rnelia Georgia and they charged me $42. They have been there for 60 years.

 

I totally accept responsibility for not getting a price. I once again got nailed for "***uming" something would be a certain price. I went in with intent to ask questions but drew blanks and he seemed like he was in a rush, left him my name and number, and that's it. He seemed like an nice and honest enough man. I'm sure I'm getting a professional job... I think I've finally learned my lesson.

 

I found the starter place in Cornelia GA.
Star Auto Electric
1000 Star Pl.
Cornelia, GA
706-778-5656

 

If your not happy with the price-- walk away. He keeps the starter and you buy a new one from someone else.

 

Yep... Another starter core shouldn't break the bank, and you might even get lucky and find one that works...

 

I cant believe how many people are telling you to stiff the vendor or take legal action or whatever. no wonder the USA is the place it is today... its not the vendors fault this situation arose - its the guy who ordered it - he needs to take responsibility, the guy asked if thats what he wanted - he said YES.

on some of the other threads there are a lot of guys who moan about buying goods from china etc. and you all say support your fellow americans - here is someone who is doing that but you guys are telling him to go to macs and buy a new one - they no doubt import them - so its OK to support your fellow americans when its cheap but if they charge for a good service its OK to buy imported goods - you guys are hash.

 

He's in Ca...
The Bait-n-switch is commonplace there...

I can't tell you how many times 'vendors' saw me coming and promised me one thing and charged me another...

Remember, it's just as much the vendors fault for not providing an invoice at the time he dropped off his part... That would have kept everything above-board...

 

20 years???
You must only start your car 2 or 3 times a year.

The rebuilder here charges $35
I think Advance Auto charges about the same.

I worked in a starter/generator rebuild shop.
Generally speaking, theres not much to go bad in a starter or generator.
Turn down the commutator, undercut the mica, replace the bushings and brushes, maybe the rubber insulator, you may be done.

Theres no advantage to replacing the armature or field coils if they are still good.
You may want to replace the starter drive bendix.
Sometimes a dummy has ground away on the starter til it gets hot and slings out the solder or the windings may actually burn and an armature can short, but usually its just bushings and brushes.