Is there a "garage friendly" paint??

I took a look at the water based paints at the PPG site.

They have a PPG thinner for them which was a surprise to me.
For some reason, I thought distilled water would be used as a thinning agent and common tap water for cleaning.

Live and learn....

 

You don't necessarily need to buy the basecoat too. You can use what you have and clear over that instead of buying a basecoat. Most sigle stages are compatible with clears. Matter of fact I like to 50/50 my last coat with RTS single stage and RTS clear. Helps for a nicer shine. Call TCP and find out before you do it though.

 

I agree with going with BC/CC for metallics. I am not a pro, but have played with it quite a bit in my garage. I found that when doing single stage metallics, I would get what they call "panel shift" if I even thought about going with a heavy coat. I started playing with BC/CC and it's way easier to get decent results. Mainly because I am able to wet sand it. The only other thing that I would add is to use fast reducer to get less dust and particles in the paint. (dries faster)

-Mitcheristo

 

i have a lot of experience painting in a garage and what i found that works best for me like some already metioned is hanging plastic up and also sweeping then wetting down your floors. also buy 4 box fans and set them up where 2 will blow from the front to the back of your car then set the other 2 where they will suck the overspray from the paint out. this should also help with your airborne dust problems too. as for the metalic if you are using a full cryill or or acrylic enamel you should be able to do 2 wet coats of paint and then come back with a quick third coat that you will mist on to even out your mettalics. then keep that fan running for an hour or so. if you pm me the type of paint you are using and brands i can tell you what will work best. I have painted over 50 cars in a garage and there will not really be any garage friendly paint unless you use a flat or satin paint.

 

i also agree with the bc/cc much easier and far superior to other single stages

 

if you are gonna clear nason has a 465 clear coat that is absolutely phenomenal shine and it runs about $123 a gal

 

hows the overspray with the single stage? ive never shot a single stage outside of a booth. that shit must color the walls!


but like said ss metallic+ newb+ garage= disaster.

 

Hey,

A single stage paint finish doesn't produce anymore overspray than a BB/CC when shot through a HVLP gun. Now, something like an old #7 with a 36 tip @ 55-60lbs., that's another story.
BB/CC urethane finishes were invented so housewifes could produce an exceptable finish on automobiles.

Swankey Devils C.C.
" Spending A Nation Into Generational Debt Is Not An Act Of Compassion!"

 

one other thing, if it hasnt already been mentioned, is that you can shoot the whole car at once in pieces, and if the doors are painted laying flat, instead of their normal mounted position, the "lay" of the metallics can be markedly different between horizontal and vertical surfaces. this can be spotted pretty easily if the doors are lighter or darker than the rest of the car. this is why the pros fixture up the doors to be vertical when painting.

metallics are soooo fussy - the mix has to be just right, the fan has to be right , the air pressure has to be right nad thery spray technique has to be right. if you dont shake up the gun while painting, the settling metallic itself cound create different colors as you go.

my too cents

-90% jimmy

 

It is a pretty color on a nice truck, unfortunately if you looking for perfection, you are going to have to do over. Ever time you try to adjust and tint and redo the door you cahnge the color and the chroma. It will never look exact with a spot job.
There are alot of garage friendly paints, but there are few painter freindly paints, and none of them are pearls, or flakes. Keep at it though, dont let it get the better of ya.

 

This is a very good piece of wisdom and should not go unheeded. Nobody who paints their own car at home will get pro-quality results, especially the first time around. So think of it as a learning experience and enjoy it.

If I was in your shoes, I'd loosely assemble all the painted parts, back-mask the jambs, etc., color-sand the exterior surfaces and re-coat the whole thing using a compatible base coat/clear coat paint of the same color.

This is not an ideal fix but at least your panels will all match and you'll be able to sand and buff out any runs, dirt, bugs, etc. that settle in the clear.

Oh...and give yourself a week or so to chill out and relax. You'll find that you'll have a new enthusiasm for the job once you've distanced yourself from your previous efforts.

Good luck!

 

As long as this was brought back up, heres the door on the truck. I know its not perfect and I'll have to decide what to do. Disregard the date on the camera, I gotta figure that out too.

 

looks good to i can see a little concentration in metallic but hey your gonna drive it, not travel the country entering it shows. thats a darn good job for no booth

 

Too bad you don't live closer ,I'd help you out.

In the picture the door definately looks to be lighter than the cab. I'm sure this is not what you want to hear ,but if it was me I would prep everything again and shoot it all at one time. (as suggested) So that way everything will match nicely. Several of the previous posts had good advice ,so try as many of those suggestions as you can. Hope this helps.

Like I said ,if you lived closer I'd try to help you out. GOOD LUCK.

 

ya but its sticky as hell. i sprayed an ae job blue. and it left the booth blue! crazy times.

 

That's 10 times better than what I could do.
I'm impressed.

 

i read the entire thread and i gotta say that painting metallic or anything that's not a simple solid color seems to be very difficult for the DIYer . I was considering painting my car for a while and recently decided not to, and im glad i did . all that technical paint stuff is very confusing, especially with a lot of different opinions on techniques, products, spraying, mixing, temperature, sanding, drying......................overwhelming!!!

Good luck though, great color. Major props to you for doing it yourself.

Ian

 

I had a 95 ford probe wit hthe beautiful candy red from ford. I got three part paint to repair the front urethane bumper and much to my suprise, base coat red, candy-like top coat and clear. I fogged it in in the middle of the panel and you could not see a blend or a different color. I amazed myself as you body guys know color matching is a bitch. worked right out of the can first time! I think it was PPG urethane, also.

the 90's probe glamor colors were all pretty hot, in my opinion.


jim