Best Shorty Header Paint

Other than Jet Hot type coatings, what is the best header paint to use on a set of Shorty headers...and would sand blasting help?...

 

Eastwood makes a high temperature paint. I used the brush-on version on an exhaust system and it worked great. I have not used it on the headres as they were already Jet Hot Coated. I sandblasted the rest of the exhaust system and brushed 2 coats on. Been on there for 4 years and hasn't budged. Had tryed VHT and other products before but everything else burned off.

 

Ya thebronc4019 is about right, Eastwood is the best for paint. If you don't want it to ever come off have em ceramic coated. I've got a set of stainless shorties on the 29 and those are nice to. But for paint Eastwoods the ticket.

 

I painted the exhaust manifolds on my 66 Chevy with Eastwood's high temp paint. I used the manifold paint that you brush on. For the money you can't beat it. Been on mine for several years now and when I get a little rust spot come up I just brush a light coat back on. Works great for a low tech (low buck) solution. Just blast the heck out of 'em first. Like all painting projects the prep is what counts.

-Ron

 

I used Eastwood's high temp powder coat. They have it in a "factory grey" color that looked really good. It's just starting to show some imperfections after a year of driving.

 

I have had good luck with rustolem BBQ paint.

 

I've been sandblasting them real good and painting with Eastwood's hi-temp cast iron grey exhaust paint. A good wipe with a lint free cloth soaked in thinner before painting helps make sure they are grease free.

 

Having owned a muffler shop for 30 years, I've seen a lot of different paints used on headers. Lately, for the price, I don't think you can beat any brand of "stove and BBQ" hi heat paint. I once used some paint from the POR (Paint Over Rust, as in POR 15) company that worked very well, but I haven't seen that brand for several years. Maybe it was sold to Eastwood. Anyway, at approximately $6.00 per can from almost any hardware store, stove & bbq, works well. Only drawback is the limited color selection. Keith

 

Paint over rust? Please tell me thats not what it stands for.

 

I don't even think POR15 is intended for new clean sheetmetal...

 

I've always gl*** beaded my headers and sprayed them with VHT. It use to be hard to find but they were recently bought by Dupli Color and now you can get it at most auto parts stores.

 

I used POR-20 aluminium paint on mine,it's holding out well so far.
I blasted the headers first to give a good key. Have a look.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/26014986@N07/2789490917/in/set-72157606265799089/

 

I know how its used, but now I'm curious wat the POR letters stand for.

 

I guess it stands for Paint Over Rust.

 

As far as I know, it's "paint over rust". I've seen it used that way, it's supposed to seal the metal so well that no air can get to the rusted area and continue the oxidation process. I believe the directions tell you to be aware and not get any on yourself (NOTHING takes it off, it has to wear off) and also if you want to re-open the can, put a plastic sheet between the lid and can or it won't ever come apart again. Hard stuff!!! but not the best solution to a rusty part. K.

 

I'm with Bellytanker I have had the best luck with wood stove and BBQ paint. My paint of choice is the type that comes in a can and apply with a foam brush. In my experience it lasts longer.

 

Yes, sand or bead blasting would help with paint adhesion. It's easier to get in all the little tight places than sand paper and leaves a nice tooth for the paint to hold on to.

 

Another vote for BBQ black. Whatever brand your local hardware handles will do the job. Sandblast first if possible and do a few lighter coats vs one heavy and it will do a better job.

Frank

 

I use BBQ Black. then after a warm-up/cool-off I scuff it with newspaper. Keeps the paint from burning off in flakes or bubbling.

 

With proper prep. Eastwood Hi-Temp paint. Goes on easy, looks good, and lasts.