Power Pack head rebuild options on my '55

My '55 has some mid '70s 1.94 boat ancors on it's rebuilt yet original 265. My dad gave me some power packs that he yanked off of a '56. I would LOVE to use them so I can put the original staggered bolt valve covers back on.

They looked to be in decent shape but after I tore them down tonight I think they need the FULL treatment. The valves are a bit too wobbly in the guides and the seats have a slight arc to them, so much that I think they wont grind clean.

If it's cheaper is there an online source for rebuilt 265 heads? If I rebuild them should I increase the valve size? I've heard of people opening them up to 1.94's; I would ***ume that since this a common size it would be cheaper. Any opinions on which parts (guides, valves etc.) to use for the full rebuild? I'll be running a 2bbl. I thought of maybe trying a tiny bit more than stock cam but I need to worry about the heads first. Opinions?

 

I'll keep it simple. You just need to bring them over to Hutto and let Junior look at them. Tell him what your budget is and he'll give it to you straight. He just did a fantastic job on some OT LS1 heads for Jon at DBRodz. So bad *** that I immeadiately took him my vortec heads and told him to have fun within my budget. I was not disappointed.

Drop by Performance Machine on Front Street, couple of doors down from Reggie. He is doing up some aluminum hemi heads for Billy, too.

www.performancemachineshop.com

 

I gues it's not even worth worrying about until I get them tanked and magnafluxed. I've heard pretty good things about them. I'll see if I can drop them by tomorrow...

 

I wouldn't put 1.94's in them if they're going on a stock 265 2 bbl., the chamber wall would probably have to be laid back to clear and that will increase your chamber CC's and drop your compression. If you add a 4 Bbl., do a little porting and maybe go with a little hotter cam in it you might see how the 1.84 valves from a 305 4 Bbl. would fit otherwise I'd leave the 1.72's in them.

 

The 1.84 305 valves fit like they belong. The 1.94 valves are to big, and will be shrouded by the ***bustion chamber to much. The runners are a little small for 1.94 valves too.

 

It's cheaper to go with 305 heads.

http://tri5chevy.proboards19.com/index.cgi?board=enginemods&action=display&thread=135

 

racers outlet sells 1.84-1.50 sbc valves for about 40 bucks a set. have the shop throw in some k-liners and open up your intakes to 1.84. run stock springs and a little cam maybe 260-270 duration 450 lift. 110 lc. i have an old iron early small block 4 barrel manifold i would let go cheap.put an afb on it with a stock 4 barrel filter. some cheap headers and you would have a clean little hotrod motor pretty cheap. maybe a pertronics or equal ign. setup in the stock dist if it would fit. if you didnt want headers (i wouldnt) you could run some later rams horns with the bigger outlets w/ some gl***packs...sweet. if no one one wants to do the heads send them to me and i'll do em. pm me and i'd pm my resume" just mag em first. im sure some one there would do what YOU want within your budget. good luck...

 

We think alike!!! I'll let you know how the magafluxing goes...

 

Just make sure whatever camshaft you put in it has an oiling notch in the rear journal, or you'll be sorry.

 

I ran a 283 with a 2 bbl. Stock bottom end, solid cam and 283 Power pack heads. It would pull to 6500-6800 then the ignition would give up, I think (single points). Rams horns and duel exahaust. But for a street engine it was great.
The only mods I did to the heads was to clean up the ugly in the ports, pin the rocker studs and make home-made polylocks. And file off the tip of the triangle on the front of the heads for the tech guys to look at

This was a long time ago.

But if you got the stuff already, go for it.

 

If you ever get close to Austin- take them to Brooks Elliot http://www.austincylinderhead.com/ . He just rebuilt a set of Power packs for me with the 1.84 - 1.50 valves, and they are beautiful. The price was right and the quality is outstanding. Brooks is also one of the nicest people you will ever meet. If you decide to take the heads to him- I would be happy to help ship or relay them for you.

Also, I didn't have a good experience with a set of heads I bought from a rebuilder. The price was right- but they were junk.

 

Hmm i was wondering the same Q myself for my T roadster. i have a set of '57 powerpacks on a '60 vette block, and running 3 Stromberg 48's. i'm thinking of running something like a duntov 097. What'a think i should do with 'em?? Mild port job? 1.84 or 1.94's.

Also anyone know anybody that could, reasonably priced, rough in a port job in Washington?, I'd like to finish it 'cuz of cost issues. I'd like to go through an old timer that KNOWS the early heads

 

I was wondering why some of the cams in summit start at '57 SBC and up. I'm guessing this is why.

After bouncing my ideas off of my Dad, we're going to keep the 2bbl and factory manifolds on. I would love to run a 4bbl but this car is too complete for me to alter (what you can see) just yet.

It sounds like the 1.84 - 1.50 combo is the way to go. I'm obviously not trying to build a ton of power but I figured that while i'm tearing into the engine It wouldn't hurt to m***age a few things while I'm in there. An old local racer Larry Reap rebuilt the 265 for my Grandpa back in the '70's and internally balanced the rotating ***embly. It's smoother than my '08 truck. I'm curious to see what kind of pistons were installed. My Grandpa (original owner) p***ed away when I was pretty young and he's the only one who would know. It's got 64cc heads on it now. If they upped the compression to compensate for the chambers, the tiny power packs may squeeze some serious pressure.


BTW... I'm bored off my *** at work right now, in case you can't tell. Does anybody wanna buy a car? PLEASE!?


I'll give you on HECK of a DEAL! ($1,000,000 used car smile)

 

Maybe a stupid question, but do you have to install larger seats for slightly bigger valves or can they be machined?

 

The intake seats can be machined. The exhaust seats should be replaced with hard seats to run unleaded fuel though.

 

So I finally got the heads over to Performance Machine in Hutto and was a bit upset when I left. I told Nick that I was putting them on a completely stock '55 and that I only needed what was necessary to get them into working order. He advised that I install screw in studs so I reminded him that it is a stock 265. Then he suggested that I machine the chambers to allow 1.94s, again it's a stocker. Don't get me wrong, my original intentions were to play around a bit but with my research I've decided differently. Lastly he informed me that a three angle valve job was a must. I resisted a bit but he ***ured me that EVERYTHING modern has three angles (almost a "FLETCH" moment) and that a "single angle wouldn't last 3 months". I heard enough. I told him "Don't let my car salesman costume fool you, this isn't my first time" but I think it went right through him. Since I was there I told him to tank and magnaflux them and call me. I'm not bashing the guy on a personal level, he seemed very very nice but I dont push people this hard to buy a used car.

 

Tell him I sent you over there. Pin the studs, keep the valves yo got and do the 3 angle valve job. Also tell him to let you talk to Junior about any cleanup that you like. Nick will pipe down.

 

Or send them to clearwater cylinder head in FL, something like $250/set to r/b, decked. with new valves, springs, retainers, keepers, etc.

 

First thing I caught about your thread was the "70's boat anchors", that were on your engine. Must not have had any more than 7:1 compression ratio with those heads, if that! Just about anything would be an improvement. I rememeber back when Power Packs were "THE" head to have, but I'm having a flashback to the mid 60's. Don't let anyone push you around on something you don't want or need. Take them somewhere else if they won't play fair. And, no offense, but I kinda agree with your dad. Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Daddy knows best! Thanks for the input guys, It should be RELIABLE and ready for the round-up!!!

 

So what did you decide to do?

 

I decided to bite the bullet and sleeve the guides and install hardened exhaust seats. I ordered factory replacement valves/springs/locks by Elgin from Racers Outlet. It's for a good cause.

I finally got the casting #s off the current heads and my dad was off a bit. They are #3814480 '60-'67 283-327 1.72/1.50 70cc. What kind of compression increase am I going to see with the chamber changes? I may have to yank the heads early to see if I can find some part #s on the pistons just to get an idea of the current ratio.

 

Power pacs are 58cc?? i belive so 70cc's are BAD

 

Yeah, even the double humpers are 64, I think, and not that great on a 283.

 

A 62cc chamber turns into 58cc with .025 mill. I just went through the whole deal on compression height, quench, piston to head clearance, valve to piston clearance, etc. Degreeing my cam now. I have the stuff to do a quick and dirty cc check on the chambers if you wanna. Happy to help if I can.

Oh, got that camera for your shop, too.

 

What if I get robbed TONIGHT?!?!? IT'S ALL YOUR FAULT!!!

 

I'll be picking up the heads on Tuesday. I've calculated the compression to be near 9:1. My Dad is cool with the idea of a small cam like I said before. Keeping the stock induction I'm considering a GM# 3896929. It's the replacement for the 300hp/327. Specs out at .390/.410 lift 195/202 @.050 on a 112 lca. The Sealed Power part # is CS274.

I'm pulling the motor to freshen up the seals so my inner gearhead is screaming at me. Any ideas on jets for my 2-Jet or maybe a different cam? I'm just trying to make the first of my two speeds a little more useful.

 

will still do heads for you but cant beat the $250 deal because of shipping. with your combo and single 4 barrel tq 360 @ 2500 to 4000.....hp 300 @ 5000 your heads and flat pistons approx 9.00 to 1 comp. nothing wrong with that. if you want more power get a 327. have nice 50's iron corvette manifold with 400 edelbrock if you need. pm. if you dont want 4 barrel, build and start w/ 2 step colder plug, j11 maybe and run up a hill under power and pull in clutch and shut off motor. coast to side of road and check plugs .nice tan color on porcelain good or tan close to white with nice tan ring up inside at base good ( simplified ). start with 2 steps rich on mainjets. nice stock air filter with cold air ducting....good luck

 

I got the heads back last night and they actually looked pretty good. Once again, hardened exhaust seats, new valves, springs etc and a mild mill.

They called me last week and said they were done but they found a hairline crack at the end of each head. This really pissed me off. They claimed that there was some paint or something covering it up so they couldn't see it the first time they fluxed. Am I wrong or shouldn't the hot tank and blast take care of all that ****? Anyway, I saw the cracks. They were close to the water jackets in the end of the heads. He offered to tig them up. I was hesitant at first but my dad said that as long as he grinds the cracks, drilles a little on either end of the crack and can weld ok it should be fine. To be honest, he even brought back the cast appearance. Welding cast still makes me cringe.

I was getting very impatient and of course I have less than a week now till the roundup. He charged me $360 for everything. I'll post pics of the engine before I cram it back in.

 

Anyone make 1 7/8 valves For SBC's anymore? in realize that 1.84's are really close, but i'd love to do it more traditional