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•• 1925 Chev roadster update ••

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jimmy B, Apr 13, 2008.

  1. Looking good! That pitman arm is ***y.
     
  2. As Stovebolt said below it doesn't actually go into the ****pit it is in a recess which will be covered with a louvered cover plate

    Yep!:)

    Cheers. Pitman arm is standard Chevy.

    This is how I did the sides on the bib, I also did the same for the two dashes
    [​IMG]

    bashed and bashed
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Annealed the pieces so I could keep bashing
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    done
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Chris5.7ltr
    Joined: Aug 3, 2008
    Posts: 31

    Chris5.7ltr
    Member

    Coming along nicely, we don't see many 25 Chev roadsters around so its cool to see something a little different.

    That looks cool to, it's amazing how that belly pan makes it look so much lower (and better)
     
  4. 34andy
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 130

    34andy
    Member
    from WA

    This early chevy with a full belly pan is amazing!
    Does anyone have more photos of this car?
    I would love to see it from the front.

    Thanks,
    Andy

     
  5. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    Nice. Looks like your headed in the right direction.
     
  6. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 843

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    Jimmy,when you get the ruffles like that there is no need to anneal the sheet. The ruffles need to be tightened by flattening the end closest to the bend. imagine a triangle shape,with the apex of the triangle at the immediate edge of the the panel. With the edge of a dolly hard into that bend from underneath smash the apex flat then work from one side of the triangle to the other flattening the triangle( ruffle) down using a crowned planishing hammer. I do this cold although others heat each ruffle to a red heat and flattening down, but to my mind this just wastes oxy. If you smooth the ruffles down the metal will be thicker as it shrunk .
    [​IMG]
     
  7. autobilly
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 3,473

    autobilly
    Member

    Lookin' good Jimmy! Can't wait to go for a run when she's done :D.
     
  8. autobilly
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 3,473

    autobilly
    Member

    (I won't tell anyone that you're really a Ford guy.)
     
  9. Really liking this build!
     
  10. Ol Deuce
    Joined: May 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,188

    Ol Deuce
    Member
    from Mt. U.S.A.

    :DJimmy B.

    You have a good start on that Stove Bolt!!!I notice you have the good
    wheels on the rear,but are they 17's?
    It wont be long and you will be burning your eyes with exhaust from that
    4-banger;)

    Ol Deuce
     
  11. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,077

    chaddilac
    Member

    Wow Jimmy!! I really like it... Not much going on in the world of 25 chevy's but that'll soon change when you get this one done!
     
  12. Thanks for the tips Dirtynails, The aluminium I used was 1.2mm hard sheet as I couldn't get anything soft. I did try to do it like you mention in your post but the ripples were too large. The first one warped this is when I decided to anneal the pieces. Once I annealed them they were way easier to work. Once they were finished with the hammer & dolly they had work hardened.

    Cheers mate, Ever driven a LHD car?;)

    Yeah Fords ****, way too expensive. One day I'll have an AV8 :D:eek: this roadster wont be sold though

    Thanks ko-lek-tor.
    Cheers Ol Deuce, They are the 17" version, I have 5 and know where another 5 are. I will buy some new 18" rims and fit to the 17" centres.
     
  13. autobilly
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 3,473

    autobilly
    Member

     
  14. R.Allan
    Joined: Sep 28, 2008
    Posts: 412

    R.Allan
    BANNED
    from Ca

    hey jimmy ive got some early chevy parts if your interested shoot me a pm.
     
  15. draginsteel
    Joined: Oct 21, 2007
    Posts: 463

    draginsteel
    Member

    Great Job. I appreciate the sheetmetal work you guys do!
     
  16. junk fiend
    Joined: Sep 16, 2008
    Posts: 430

    junk fiend
    Member

    i love that thing, so bad *** straight outa the 40s
     
  17. Ol Deuce
    Joined: May 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,188

    Ol Deuce
    Member
    from Mt. U.S.A.

    Jimmy B--- what is that funny lookn' blue car in this last pic. ?

    Ol Deuce
     
  18. That is my brothers '83 Ford XE Falcon Ute. It has 351C, FMX & Disc brake 9in.
     
  19. I made a dimple die so I can mount the Aluminium hood sides.

    I had a few of these donuts left from hole sawing 3/8" plate 1" round.
    [​IMG]
    I used a countersink bit to get the desired depth. I then found a countersunk br*** screw and a 3/8 nut.
    [​IMG]

    I tested it on a piece of s**** aluminium drilled a hole & tightened it up with a 3/8 ring spanner.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Turned out ok:)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Ron Mayes
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 709

    Ron Mayes
    Member

    this is going one bad *** ride .........awesome
     
  21. rodncustom
    Joined: Sep 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,313

    rodncustom
    Member

    Looking awesome! Thanks for the updates.
     
  22. hotrd32
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,566

    hotrd32
    Member
    from WA

    Nice to see what you were talking about Jimmy B. Looks very cool and love the simplicity of your set up, real home built stuff......I can see you re-doing Bob's car...looking forward to more pix
     
  23. Cheers Ron.

    Thanks.

    Hey Hotrd32, I like simple, plus it makes things easier and cheaper. I do everything myself, I can't afford outside labour.
    I really would like to build a T roadster like Bob's.

    Here is a clearer shot of the rear, I didn't realise the other was so blurry.
    [​IMG]

    For those that haven't seen this what I started with
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Awesome work Jimmy, should stand out from the m***es when done! Can't wait.
     

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