if this is done correctly what kind of hp could these axles handle in a 2700# car with slicks. the car now has a 350 hp 455 olds and a 2500 stall. thanks cobey
The moment you start talking slicks and drag use is the moment you should stop considering stock axles of any form.
Broke every one I ever ran. ok on the street but never had one make 2 p***es at the track on micky street tires.
I would NEVER use them in any of my cars! Ive seen what happens. With the price of billet axles in the US why the hell would you use resplined axles??????
I would think you need to source axels from a spe******t supplier, one who understands what you are trying to do and makes axels to suit. He will most likely be using High Tensile steels such as EN 25 or 4140 or 4340. These are the steels I have used when I used to forge truck axels, the benefit of EN25 etc is that they are known as 'tough' steels and are able to withstand huge torque forces. Good luck
I twisted one off in a 2000 lb car with L60-14 street tires and a 289, I'll never respline another axle for any car. What is it worth to not have to walk home or get it towed out of a bad part of town? What will you do if you are 4 states away from home when it happens?
You can't respline Ford 28 spline axles, so I ***ume we are all talking about 31 spline axles. If you narrow and respline a 31 spline Ford axle, it will be as strong as it would have been from the factory. 31 spline Ford axles are pretty ****ing tough, but they can be broken..Particularly if you are running a spool and/or slicks. The fact that a pair of axles has been shortened and resplined makes no diffrence in durability. By the way, 350 horse won't hurt a set of 31 spline axles. Good luck, -Abone.
Cant answer that but the general thought on your post is get some custom axels built-strange or mosler will do it and you wont be breaking any thing. I use strange in my street rods and never had any problems-
Resplining axles means something got narrowed to begin with. Shortening axles causes them to lose torsional ability, that leads to breakability. My rear engine dragster actually had shortened, and resplined stock Ford 9" axles. I took them to work, and used mammogram film to X-ray them. Don't ask what the exposure was, it was to the machine's limit, and I took MULTIPLE exposures ( I'm an X-ray tech). CRACKS!!! And, they had been run that way in an 8.15 E.T. dragster. They got replaced with Summers Brothers axles. I found a lot of stuff on that car that was plain stupid wrong. I still don't know how they got by tech with it. Butch/56sedandelivery.
The axle I broke was a shortened and resplined 31 spline ford axle. The problem was that to recut the splines the case hardening on the surface of the axle was cut through, which reduced the strength of the axle shaft. The result was that the splined section immediately outside the side gear in the differential twisted like a piece of licorice and the piece inside the side gear separated cleanly from the rest of the axle. I've also shortened and repaired axles by welding. I wouldn't do that either in a vehicle I had a lot of power in or drove far from home, but I would trust it farther than resplining.
From my own personal experience, they're fine. I have a narrowed 9" in my GTO, 31 spline shortened & resplined stock axles, Detroit Locker, 3.89 street gears and a standard iron center section (not nodular iron). The housing does have a back brace welded on to keep everything happy, the bearings last longer when the housing can't flex. Trans is a TH400 reverse manual valve body with a transbrake, 10" converter with 3500 flash stall, 3550 # race weight with driver. Engine is a 400 HP Pontiac 455. I've made hundreds of p***es (using the transbrake on every p***) with 10X28" Goodyear slicks and there's been nary a whimper from the rear end or the stock resplined axles. I don't race the car anymore, it sees its share of street use nowadays. Same rear, never been repaired. My car's heavier and has more power, you should be okay.
My bud put resplined axles in his 55 chevy, what he didnt know was they were large bearing axles that the diff shop reground down to small bearing diameter! He only found this out when the axle snapped at the wheel bearing diameter when he was interstate with his family in the car! It went down an imbankment and nearly on its roof at 70mph. They were very lucky not to be killed!! Not the splines fault BUT who knows what you get from some diff shops. Personally I want billets!!!!!!!
Probably ok on the street with a light car and street tires. (Although some street tires - not disguised DOT approved slicks - are pretty sticky.) Little brother ran re-splined 31 spline Ford axles and 12" or so wide slicks in his HJ drag racer when it weighed 2700#-2800# and was running low 11's - high 10's. Snapped an axle and the wheel & remaining bit of axle came part way out at around 110-115 per. Got Summers Bros axles - end of problem. The car now weighs 2300#-2400# and runs low 8's with the same axles.
Light car at 2700 lbs, 350HP aint mondo HP, good traction = they still should be ok if they have been done properly. Seriously, Ive gone low 11s with resplined 31 spline axles at 3350lbs, no issues. When I upped the ante, I went with billet 31 spline Mosers as it made sense. Trans brake......errrr, p*** and step up to billet axles. And seriously, you can get the billet axles for a decent price, why bother with an inferior , unasafe product? Rat
This was from an email from Moser axles when I asked about the strength about resplined axles as to stock axles. I was asking about 31spl axles. Since my local guy said he would have to soften them to machine them than reharden the axles when he was done. Moser has the equipment to repline without having to soften the axles. " No, the depth of the spline does not go past the hardened part of the axle, it doesn't change the strength at all."
As noted, shortening an axle, in certain cases does not affect it's strength. HOWEVER, the problem is that it's still a STOCK axle. You don't know where it's been or what's been done to it for the last 30 years. You don't know what direction it's been turning while it transmitted those billions of ***ulative ft-lbs. That's the real reason you never respline for drag use. good luck
thanks for the replys, in this deal i got a pair of strange axles that were used but not for long I will probly be useing them soon. didnt think i could get these from this guy but he will throw them in with some other parts he isnt useing looks like ill have some extra stuff thanks for helping me! cobey j. c./ o.m.71
I need some help. I am building a trike conversion kit to change my motorcycle to a three wheeler. I have come up with a design that I think that will work. I have been reading about resplining 9 inch ford axles. This is a 110 HP Harley Davidson. I am using a Dana 30 differential. I need the width from flange to flange to be aprox 38" What kind of axle can I use to make this work. I have attached a drawing to show what I need. I will not be using a ring gear and pinion. The sprocket will be mounted to the outside of the housing. I also would like to know what axles are easy to come up with because I may be making more that one of these. See attached. Thanks
Some people can break anything. Others seem like they can build something out of gl*** and it will hold up. I ran a 3000 lb car on a stock ford 8 inch rear end, stock axles etc... It would run consistand 6.70s @ 102 in the 8th, I finally replaced the axles with 28 spline moser axles, the stockers looked fine when I replaced them. I think you will be fine with your axles being resplined.
Is it possible to cut a little off the axles at the splines?,just wondered as I have some a little too long for my housing (28 spline ford)
I had talked to mosier about shortened and resplined axles and was told ehat basically a ****shoot because ford was inconsistent with the hardening process. They told me they have had axles with no problems and then the next axle twisted first time out, said that if the resplining does not get past the heat treat your good, but if it does they will twist or break
I believe this says it the best! I've resplined my last set of axles myself - I can tell you first hand that IF (a BIG if) you stay in the heat treat zone it is PLENTY deep - at least FULL DEPTH of the splines - my cutter was quite unhappy, but did it's job just the same. I've also seen them twist off like a pop bottle top. If you look at a factory axle - you can see the heat treat zone - cutting past that is the IFFY part - definitely a NO-NO for big HP & slicks - heck I wouldn't trust it in street applications. This is one of those topics where the answers will run the gamut, but will make more sense if you look into it a little deeper. (Pun intended)
fer the little price diff just buy the good ones, twisted 2 sets at the resplined ends they didn,t brake just twisted my 2cents
Hmnn that's sounds pretty intresting. If I was you I would consider "loosing" the axle idea all together. I mean, you siad you're NOT usign the differential anyways so teh heck with it all. What about just getting the HUBS off a late model car and go from there? I just put a new rear bearing on my wifes Dodge Caravan. The hub ***y (Timken) included the axle flange, bearing and housing. You could fab an ***embly and use these pieces with little machine work. If I am missing another point entirely then I would suggest retubing your Dana 30 (loose the center section) using your 9" axle you could respline it to fit a modern FWD hub (they're splined) and go from there. Seems like you'd need some stickout to attach the sprocket to. 9" axles are MEGA easy to come up with. But for your case may also be a tad OVERKILL. At your power level a small pickup diff might be better suited to your needs. Look into what the midget racers are using. I think "Legends" is a major player in that market. I believe they use alot of Toyota truck rears - with one side shortened & the other lengthened. They run dirt - so shock loads aren't an issue - it's fairly typical to see those axles welded & sleeved to change the length. Good Luck!!!
something that hasn't been mentioned is, no responsible drag racing ***ociation allows shortened/respline stock axles. also if you use them and they brake, they will give you a real hard time from then on.
First, I'm not an expert by any means, but from my recent understanding of 9 inch axles there is part of them that are hardened and you can only go so far back and then its only best on the 31 spline, which are larger diameter. I have been told yes and no on the 28 splines. They have to have 4 inches cut off in order to get to the larger diameter shaft but only so far??? If i were gonna be drag racing and running slicks i would just look into after market axles and save the headache of finding out the wrong way they would not hold up. Good Luck
Thanks for the info. Check out this site. http://www.mcworx.com/fshome.html This is what I am trying to do. This looks like a great idea but I don't want to copy his design. I would like to come up with something a little different. Your sprocket is attached to the part in the center that turns. Check out the axles and carrier. This does look like a overkill. As you can see, you dont us the housing of the car. You build the rest. I am the owner of a machine shop with CNC capabilities, I just dont want to build a dinosaur. I want to build something that looks sharp. Thanks
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