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ECI brake kit won't fit '48 Ford?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 48fordor, Apr 1, 2009.

  1. 48fordor
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 145

    48fordor
    Member
    from York, PA

    I'm stuck on the installation of my ECI brake kit. It is the kit using Ford pickup rotors and the Chevy big car calipers so I can keep the stock bolt pattern on the '48 Fordor. The problem is on the p***enger side, where the drag link and the caliper try to be in the same place at the same time. It appears that the steering arm on the spindle is too high. I suspect this because the drag link rubs the bottom of the wishbone when the suspension is at full droop, and it doesn't seem like Ford would have built it that way. I put up a quick www page with photos so you can see what I mean. http://home.comcast.net/~fangle/48_Fordor_Brake_Problem.html Once I get this solved I can get the car back on the road.

    Thanks for your help.

    Ed
     
  2. I've never used this Kit before but something don't look right. I'm sure you have instructions to follow but maybe the bracket mounts on the front side of the spindle. Try puting the Rotor on then set the Caliper on to be sure your mounting the adapter in the correct place. Looking at my 32 Disc brakes that mount plate is way to far inboard. Maybe the Truck rotor needs that but check to be sure.
    The Wizzard
     
  3. Grilleguy
    Joined: Dec 31, 2007
    Posts: 73

    Grilleguy
    Member

    Give Ralph a call at ECI, I'm sure he can walk you through figuring out your problem.
     
  4. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Ditto on calling Ralph. The kits he designs and sells fit. You may have another problem,.

    Frank
     
  5. If your drag link end comes into the steering arm from the bottom shouldn't your tie rod end also come into the steering arm from the bottom?

    If you can unbolt the tie rod end and lift it out or a few light taps with a plastic hammer get it out, you may have it on upside down.
    Tie rod ends usually take a bit of effort to remove due to the taper locks them together so well.

    Take note of the taper inside the steering arm tie rod end hole as well as the taper on the tie rod proper.

    Bringing the tie rod in from the bottom should match up the taper.

    Take a look at the drag link and tie rod ends in the steering arm in this pic.
    [​IMG]


    Full droop - or rise - of the suspension shouldn't create a conflict between tie rod and split wishbone.
    They travel together an equal distance vertically.
     
  6. 48fordor
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 145

    48fordor
    Member
    from York, PA

    The setup is stock, unsplit wishbone '48 Ford. I seem to remember that drag link on top and tie rod on bottom is how it shows in my manuals, but I will check again. What I'm hoping for with this post and the other photos is to determine where my car is changed - I've heard nothing but good about the ECI stuff and I'm sure it is right. My problem is I have no other parts to compare to see what part of this car is wrong.

    Thanks,
    Ed
     
  7. There is nothing wrong with your tie rod and steering link. That is how Ford made them in 46-48, Odd but stock.
    The Wizzard
     
  8. ECIGUY
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 111

    ECIGUY
    Member

    There are several different types of rod ends out there, some are smaller size wise. Yours may be bigger than the one that we use for prototyping, but it isn't worth changing. Try removing the cross steering link rod end from the spindle and install the caliper mounting bolt. You can then re-install the rod end and it should clear. Other alternative is to heat and bend the steering arm down a hair, but the first method should work.If not give me a call.
     

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