Looking through the Speedway catalog, there is a solid state fuel pump. It isn't like any other electric pumps I've seen. I was thinking of using it on my flathead because its small. Does anyone have any experience with one of the solid state pumps?
I use one of those solid state ones to prime my Strombergs, but would not depend on one to get me from point A to point B
I have one on my test stand, the low pressure one to feed the Strombergs it's actually the Mr Gasket version but looks exactly the same, and it's my second one, I let the first one run out of gas and only after about 15 seconds running dry it ****ped out.
The fuel keeps them cool, run them dry and they will definitely fail. They get real noisy running dry, as a warning. Ran them on a couple race cars 20+ years ago. Worked ok, as long as they had fuel. No idea how the new ones compare to the old ones.
If you are talking about these The ones made by Facet and Purolater are good quality and I have used them since the mid 70's with good luck. Like everything these days they have been knocked off by countries with no ethics and there are some ****py copies out there. These were actually used by Mazda back in the 70's as the stock pump and they were a good piece. Buy the name brand and you have good luck. They put out from 1.5-4.5 psi. the nice thing is the size and they seem OK in most positions.
I had one of thoese on a 48 Jeepster,with a pontiac 350 in it. It ****ed out about 40 miles from home, now either I walk or come up with a fix. I discovered that each time I turned on the ignition switch it would click just once,so I disconected my dash mounted horn switch,and hooked the fuel pump wire to it. It worked like a charm,but my hand was sore for days after,but I did get home. .............Jack
They are a plunger type. A 8 pin IC is an oscillator (555 timer) this pulses a power transistor, that pulses a coil. The coil pulls a plunger up,and after the power is removed a spring pulls it back. These pumps will not handle any dirt. I took one apart and found the electronic part was fine. A small particle of dirt had wedged between the plunger and coil bore. The pump worked after I removed the dirt ,but I had to unfold all the crimped metal. Once the plunger is stuck youre done. If you could filter the inlet without restricting the flow that would help. Best to carry a spare. A motor driven pump would handle a small amount of dirt better.
I've been running one of these from NAPA Facet brand about $35.00 since 1998. I replaced it in 1998 and found that tank goo caused the failure so I installed a filter betweeen the tank and the pump. I carry a spare in the trunk. My failure in 1998 was coming home from the James Dean Run about 250 miles of getting it going then having to stop and let it rest. Changed it the next morning though it's a PIA to get under the Merc. Jacked it up and used the spare tire/wheel for a jackstand under the left rear tire. I'm satisfied it'a a good product.
I had one of the purelator ones on my Galaxie. It worked fine but I never ran it out of gas. I'm not sure that I would by a no name from a catalog I would go down to the local Autozone/pepboys/whatever automotive super market and snag one off the rack.
When I started using these back in 1976 it was on a European Capri Rally car. Fed a built Ford V6 and ran in some pretty hostile environments. Dirt in the fuel was not uncommon on these rally cars. Ran a good filter before the pump and never had a failure, and ran dry more than once. Like I said earlier, the Facet brand are good pieces. I've had more failures with Holley pumps than these.
Will they allow fuel to p*** thru easily if they are not on? I need something to prime my Carter since the fuel evaporates out after a few days. I have plenty of pressure with the stock engine-driven pump though, so I wouldn't need it after the engine is running.....
Gee, it sounds like I have the exact opposite experience with these pumps. I have seen two types. One is a square metal case and the other is plastic, and IIRC, round. They are available in 2-3 psi or higher-pressure versions. The low pressure ones work well with Strombergs or SUs. The Jaguar crowd use these pumps heavily; that's how I first found out about them. Since the pumps have separate positive and negative wires, you can use them on a positive- or negative-ground car. Many Jaguars and early MoPars have positive ground. You can also get them either 6 or 12 volt. I have never bought them through Speedway. I always get them from my local old-time auto parts store. They cost about $40. These are pusher pumps. They should be mounted close to the tank. The pumps have their own fine-mesh inline filter. I supplement this with a larger inline filter upstream of the pump, so that the supplied filter should never clog. It is OK to **** fuel through these pumps if you have your mechanical pump downstream. IOW you can run with the electric pump off. Just about any electric fuel pump will fail if you leave it pumping dry. The gasoline acts as a coolant and a lubricant. Moving parts don't like to run hot or dry.
I've had 1 in my 53 wagon for 10 years without a problem. I've had 3 in the GMC in a matter of a month, 1 from napa, 2 from Advance Got tired of replacing them on the road and Finally pump a carter on it
Looking for some more info on these. Bought one and seems to have ****ped out without having actually driven the car. When the pump gets juice it clicks once. Also, pump seems to get hot. I am thinking because I didnt install a relay I might have caused it to overheat due to lower voltage. Also, it always sounded "funny" to me since the beginning. Loud clicking type sound. I am thinking of trying one again with a relay installed because it is in a tight location and all plumbed up already, but I dont want to waste my time/money if they are all junk.
I have one of the Speedway versions and yet to have a problem. I did notice that a good ground was necessary.
If it's getting more than 11 volts while it's running it should be OK. Don't forget if you block the outlet on one of these (like your needle& seat would when the bowl is full up) it will stop "clicking". They sound loud when you test them on the bench, but the sound of the mill / exhaust drowns them out. If the clicking still bugs you, you can mount them on a rubber insulating block (don't forget to run your earth wire to the ch***is). I bought a new one and it lasted 20 minutes, the second one is still going. But we only get **** chinese **** here.
They don't need relays. Maybe yours is defective. Make sure it is not in backwards, and that the inlet filter is in place.
About 20 years ago, i was driving an off topic car with a 468 BBC, Holley Blue pump, it went out in the middle of no where on a sunday afternoon.. the only parts store around had one of those Facet pumps, the only one he had in stock. I cut the line, and plumbed it inline, tapped power from the NOS ****on. Drove it about 40 miles holding the NOS ****on down, thumb was so tired. So I taped a nickle on the shift knob to hold the ****on down, and turned on and off with the arming switch. It got me the 200 miles home.
Anybody not mount this at a 45 degree angle? Do you know why it calls for that? I have mine mounted in the frame rail below the rear quarter. I ran the line out the tank, into a filter, into the frame rail before the rear tire, in the frame past the rear tire with the pump mounted in the frame where the frame levels off around the rear quarter. I think it may be too far from the tank. I also mounted it at the 45 degree angle but I wouldnt think that is needed since it is a level line at that point.
Sacramento Vintage Ford has them. http://www.vintageford.com/ Go to "32-48 Ford V8 &32-47 Pick Up", then on the right, clik "Fuel System", then go to page #4. And they're flow through...
you guys know that if they get a little grit in them they stop and taping them works or blow fuel back through it, used to happen all the time in my dune buggy, been runnin one on my bus for years, both napa
How does it compare to JC Whitney? I've had one of JC for a few years, works good, got it for about $40 then, now price is $55 http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=electric+fuel+pump
Depends on the carbs. Stromberg 97s like low pressure, so the lower output units work best. More modern carbs like higher pressures and so you would go with the larger unit. It is not always about the pressure, but the volume. As long as the pump is delivering enough volume to keep the bowl filled, you should be good to go.
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