. I ran into some problems on the rear end ! With the addition of the auxiliary transmission, I cant depend on the stock model T brake that stops the drive shaft. If the auxiliary transmission is in neutral then there is no braking action transmitted to the drive shaft. The emergency brakes on a 1925 rear axle are only 8 inch diameter and 1 inch wide. They are also unlined steel shoes. Even if I got the newer lined shoes they are not big enough to use for full time brakes. So .. I have a set of old aftermarket outside brake bands with new linings on them and a pair of axle mounting brackets. I figured I could use a set of 11 inch brake drums from the 26 or 27 model T and mount them over the stock 8 inch drums on the 25 rear axle. Then I could use the outside brake bands. Here are the brake bands, mounting brackets and 11 brake drums. First off .. the auxiliary brake mounting brackets will not fit the 25 axle housings. Then I realized the 26/27 drums won't fit over 25 drums either. I did find out the auxiliary brake mounting brackets will fit the 26/27 axle housing. I tried to find a complete 26/27 rear axle but could only find axle housings. Here is a 26/27 housing on the left and a 25 housing on the right. You can see the difference in the diameter of the backing plates. The model T used the same gears and axle shafts in all the cars thru 27 so I can put the parts from my axle in the 26/27 housings. Then I can use the outside brake bands. I will have to make the actuating leavers, rods and brackets as they are missing. I was able to pick up a good pair of 26/27 emergency brake shoes off ebay at about 1/3 the cost of new shoes. The 26/27 shoes are a thin formed steel. Even though they have a lining riveted to them, they are to thin to use as full time brakes. I feel they would over heat real fast. Besides .. I still need emergency and parking brakes. The next problem showed up when I took the 25 rear axle apart. It looks like the outside axle bearings were never greased. Both axle shafts are worn really bad where the bearing rides on them. The bearings themselves are discolored from getting hot. This is the axle shafts and gears. The price of new axle bearings and sleeves is not bad but new axle shafts are really expensive. As I am retired and on a fixed income, I'm going to have to save up some money before I can get the axle shafts. I'm keeping my eyes open for a pair of good used axle shafts but I haven't run across any yet. Any I've looked at have the same problem as mine. Although I haven't seen any as bad as mine, I haven't seen any that are useable either ........... I did get the drive shaft housing shortened though. ............ I sent the inner drive shaft down to my son and he machined the 10-splines on the end to match the Chevy transmission U-joint. It's on the way back to me now. I cut the housing to the correct length and turned down the end so the Chevy U-joint ball would fit on the end. Then I welded the Chevy ball in place. Next, I turned a br*** bushing to fit inside the end of the housing to support the Chevy U-joint. This is the bushing in the drive shaft housing. The finished housing with the brackets welded on for the radius arms.
Yah good idea regarding not counting on the transmission brake when using a aux transmission.. My dad has a 1ton TT truck with a warford transmission and one day many moons ago I recall riding with him in it shortly after he got it. We were pulling up to a stop sign when he decided to change from high to low gear... He couldnt get it into gear (I dont think they are really supposed to be shifted while moving IIRC) and got stuck in neutral. No brakes.. went right through a 2 way stop across a busy highway. Luckily no accident.. Learned that day to not do that ever again.