hey i got a 4 banger out of a 48 ford tractor from a neighbor he said that the could be built to use in a car, hot rod , rat rod what ever your building has any one ever heard of this being done or what would have to be done if even possable . it looks similar to modal a motor but i think there only rated at about 15 or 20 hp just courius any body got any input david
Well you could put an ARDUN head on it, hot cam and dual carbs and get that HP figure up to at least 40!
This is a TINY engine, 120 cubes. For a rod it would have to be in a small, light car to have a chance, like a T or such. It is considerably choked down by a riduculously small carb that looks about right for a lawnmower. A few were actually raced in midgets, and Ford actually put them in pickups and deliveries in 1941 as an economy option. Parts are VERY easy to find both because of all the tractor parts sources and because many parts are the same as 239 flatheads. By the way, bellhousing pattern fits early Ford trans.
People use the grill from tractors all the time, why not the engine and even the rear tires. Just kidding........ When you go to build something like this, it usually cost way more that a conventional engine. Then you have 1/4 the power and 3 times the cost. I say leave it in the tractor.
Look at the early modified in this thread... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350689 Something like that, T rails and minimal body, could be light enough. 9N grill and hood wouldn't look bad on that, actually, but stick with A-T-V8 instead because that mod has developed such bad connotations...
your going the wrong way.... you are supposed to put automotive engines into tractors, not tractor engines into autos!! Ever hear of the Funk conversion? put a flat head inline 6 or a flat head V-8 into an 8-N. in my opinion, that's pretty cool, not so much for the other way around tho.
Yep, they are only about 20 hp, the other problem is they are only designed to run about 2000 rpm @ wide open throttle, they have a governor too. There are still a bunch of 8N Ford tractors in use, the motors and parts have value, I think you'd be better off selling it to a tractor guy. (lots of 8N tractor forums out there)
I'd take it to put into an 8N if you weren't in Utah! 1600 rpm is a pretty nice cruising speed. You can almost pull 20 mph in an 8N. We've had a few.
remember.. Tractors of the time period were rated in two way... Drawbar HP and Belt HP and/or PTO HP... they did not rate the HP right off the engine crankshaft, etc... That's why my 20 HP Farmall F-20 can kick the living tar out of your 20 HP craftsman riding lawn mower any day! here are the Nebraska Test Files for Ford Tractors of the 40's and 50's 1950 8N http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1148&context=tractormuseumlit 1940 9N http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1607&context=tractormuseumlit To browse other makes and models... http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tractormuseumlit/
In the new "Rodders Journal"(Issue 43), theres a story about Tom Sparks. And theres a few pictures of his Kurtis Kraft midget. Its powered by a Ferguson engine, with a Al Scherman alu-head and two Strombergs. So its done before. Does anybody have some info about that head. Not that i wanna steal your threat, but im very interested. Lars
Build yourself some kind of crazy contraption for cruising the fairgrounds. It'll be a far better use than trying to put it on the street. And is kinda what it's made for, low speed crawling.
I'm looking at the Ford manual...nice crank, looks like a 2/3 scale model of '33 B... Walls are probably thick...bore it to 3 5/16 to get compression up...use flathead Ford pistons. Flywheel probably weighs a ton, but use flathead one again...oil pan also ways a ton, but the pickup truck stamped one is RARE. V8 trans will bolt up after cutting a notch for starter drive. Has 6 ports...cannot tell much about them from manual. Cam, I'm sure, is very tame. Custom job there for sure! Main thing is a light ch***is!
Hey Bruce (Mr Lancaster), I am always amazed at all the obscure(to me) information you dig up. For some reason I picture you in some giant Library with books piled to the rafters! All it takes is some mention of a rare Ford part or model and you are ready with the knowledge and the literature to straighten us out.
23 HP - 90+ft/lbs if it's an 8N motor. It also uses a Model A's clutch You can drive away in 4th Here's mine
And if you pull the throttle all the way down and your foot "accidentally" slips off the clutch, 8N's do one helluva wheelie... Even more so with a box blade on the back. "Accidentally"...
I'll attest to that! Try it with a 6 foot snow blower on it. That's what the weight on the front is for on mine.
probably never use it in a rod save as a spar for my 8n just woundering if it was fesable or not thanks for all the info it was interesting
Were any of those Ford 4s put in Ford built WWII Jeeps? Which Ferguson engine? I thought they were Continental OHVs.
They are a beast in the corn field, its the gearing that made them work, but I don't think you would be happy with that motor in a go cart.
Loved my old 9n, it had orchard wheels from another tractor on it(taller). In third gear it would go to fast to try and stay in the seat and when I drove it on the back city streets people would stare and wave. I evan took it to a 7-11 down the street for beer. Its amazing I never got stopped.
Here is a picture of a younger me in a V8-60 powered midget.At one time it had a Ferguson with an aftermarket "F" head in it. There were also three Audun V8-60 heads with it. #Where is that stuff now? I think in a small enough, light enough speedster type car it would be fun.
The 9N Ford tractors are living proof that anything will pull if you gear it low enough. Ford put the 9N tractor engine in pickups and panels in '41 and '42. They were designed for in-town delivery service where you never got up much speed between stops, and they had a stump puller of a rear end ratio, really geared too low for the open road. If you geared it high enough to run on the open road, you'd be having to downshift on every hill.
I know of an old fellow where I used to live lost his license in his old age so he used to drive his tractor two concession lines over into town on the shoulder to shop. You don't need anything to drive a tractor here and they are legal to drive on the road so long as they have slow vehicle triangle. He built a plywood cab for the winter. That'll be me if I lose my license!
They also built them so that the V8's could be used for military equipment. Old Henry also changed the 8N a bit and called it the 2N (for 1942) so he could raise the price. The gov. had wage and price control during the war so the only way he could raise them is to make it a "new" model crafty ******.
keep in mind that the 9n/2n/8n engines ran dry sleeves. some had thin sleeves that could be peeled out with a screwdriver and some had a thick wall sleeve that required a puller to extract them. Both style sleeves used the same piston. You never REALLY knew which sleeve that you were dealing with until you tore the engine down. I guess if you had a block made for the thick sleeves you could have a thin wall sleeve made for it and find a piston to fit it. The blocks made for the thin wall sleeves could be bored to accept the thick wall sleeves. I rebuilt a couple hundred of these engines in the late 70s. I never tried to get any more power than stock since the customers only wanted it to run correctly, not smoke and not consume oil. Nobody ever wanted to pay me to hop up their tractor.
Actually the 9N came first, then the 2N, then the 8N. The 9N and 2N had different radius arms to the front axle. One was round and the other was I-beam, I dont remember which was which. The main differences between the 8N and the 9n/2n were the 8N had had a 4 speed transmission and a small bolt circle 6 lug (or was it 8) wheels and the last 2 years of the 8N had a side mounted distributor. The 9N/2N had 3 speed transmissions and a wide 6 lug (or was it 8) bolt pattern. All of the 9n/2n and the early 8n had front mounted distributors with crab style caps and the coil mounted directly to the distributor and cap, ala GM HEI. There were some subtle changes in the guage locations over the years as well
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