Projects Bringing back single stage paint

I have a 1966 Charger that has been in the back of my garage for 89 years. I want to bring it back out into the light of day.The paint is ok however it's single stage and I want to buff it out. I would like to bring back the shine what would I do to it? Is it possible to wet sand it and buff it? or would that destroy the surface. Any advice would be useful

 

I would just try a machine over it first with a mild cuttig polish to see if that brings back the finish you are after. But this is not a five minute job be prepared for a days maybe 2 days hard work

 

When I try to bring back an old finish, I start on a small area, and use the mildest polishing technique I think would work. If that doesn't do it, I go a step more agressive, and work down to sanding it. Sure you have a chance of going through, if you HAVE to go far with the process, but in most cases, at that point, the paint was already shot.
I'd start with mild liquid poslish, like The Viking said. Foam pad, with Meguire's #9. If that doesn't do it, Meguire's # 2 or 3.
If the paint is still bad, use a compounding foam pad, with a mild compound, like 3M's Perfect-It. If not, go a step more agressive with your compound.
Then if that doesn't work, I'd try sanding it with 1000 or 1500, and then compound. this is pretty much your last step, unless you know you've got a thick paint film..then you can 600 or 800 it, and work your way back up, though all the steps, to liquid polish.

 

What CHOPOLDS said...

 

If you have to ask the question you're asking, you shouldn't use sandpaper or a rotary buffer. You'll be thru the paint in no time.

If you're doing this on your own time and not on a customer's dime, the weapon of choice is an orbital waxer. It's WAY slower than a rotary buffer and will allow you to find that very fine line between shine and see-thru paint. Foam pads work best but they're easy to tear up. You can get GREAT results with a regular cotton buff covers. After every machine step below, remove the pad and do the corners/around emblems/etc by hand

If it's dull like primer, start with a "medium cut" buffing compound. Don't buy the **** in tins, you're buying liquid in squirt bottles. Go over the car once really thoroughly and mind the edges. A little water helps the process, keep a hand spray bottle around. You may choose to rinse out the pad once or twice. Wipe car down with a towel

Now move to a "fine cut" by the same company. This time hit the gl*** and taillights too. Do a real thorough job, remove by hand.

Now wash the car and stand back. Notice problem areas. You'll probably decide to repeat medium cut in a few selective spots, remove by hand, and redo the entire car with fine cut. Remove by hand.

Now wash the car and stand back again. Work all problem spots with fine cut. Remove by hand, spot wash, repeat til you're happy. As you remove oxidiation, you're going to find all kinds of little defects previously invisible, and will need to focus buffing effort as they're revealed.

Now it's time for swirl remover. If you're gonna use a foam pad, now is when it's most needed. Real thorough application and removal. Twice.

Wash the car again. At this point it needs a wax, but I prefer not to. Let it age for a month or so and get it dirty once or twice. Then do a thorough wash/wax. The wax itself is a deoxidizer and the time interval will help even out shine.

You're now leashed to hand waxing the car every 4 months or it will regress in a hurry.

Any paint job that is securely attached to the car can be saved with the above steps. The worst just require more p***es.

Good luck!

 

Yeah- no way would i try to sand it.
A wool pad with cutting compound is almost as aggressive as sandpaper-- and you're not stuck polishing out sanding scratches (and wondering if you're going to rub through any second).

Like mentioned above- do a panel, start to finish: compound, polish, wash, then glaze. It will give you a solid idea of what you're in for.

 

i would try buffing it by hand first, i have also made some old cars look pretty nice with colored wax.

 

89 years. Man I thought it was just a quick nap. damn what year is it??? I must of gone through some rip van winkle ****...ghost

 

color wax is a last resort of all last resorts and should only be used when the paint is shattered like on 80s hoods. However in that case it's a miracle product

 

The car has a little shine however you can see age, the sides look very nice however like all things the hood,top,trunk have surface problems. I like the advice of not sanding it. Although there is a lot of paint on it I don't know how durable it is at this point. I had the car painted back in 1989 so that tells you. The first 10 years it was outside then I got smart and put it inside. The motor(440) runs so nice, purple cam shaft from old days technology. I got the carb(holly) freed up as it was almost frozen. She is idling so nice. It's not raining here now so tomorrow I am going to bring it out into the daylight. The interior was the last thing I did so it's super fresh. Thanks all 1 step at a time, wash reapply got it.