I use Valvoline 10w-40 in my car ! I have been using Valvoline for 30+ years and never a problem ! The ZDDP was taken out of the oil because it damaged the cat converters . That is needed for a flat tap engines . You can still by oil with the additives in it at most any store . My wife's car that she bought 2 years ago recommends to use Syntec blend oil . I still like Valvoline 10w-40 and will stick with it until I can't buy it anymore !
just another thought. what about the royal purple stuff? or Lucas? Im going to look.. but do they make anything?
What scare,A friend in Finland just emailed this pic of the oil he uses .Bought it last Friday and it's made in the USA. Is there some reason why it cannot be bought in the USA? .I have never seen it here but i'm in OZ.
Lucas racing oil. http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/2050_plus_oil.pdf http://www.lucasoil.com/images/medialibrary/magnum_15_40.pdf
www.redlineoil.com best money you will ever spend on oil. www.donhudsonracing.com works great for me.
lol.. although I laugh.. its sounds perfect... Walmart apparently sells an oil called ACCEL that is for pre 88 vehicles and has a high ZDDP rating. sells for like a 1.80 a qt. going to go check out the redline oil.
Brad Penn 70 wt in a 85=90%nitro 354. yes, a roller cam. LOL. Broke an oil pump once ran 1/8th mile no press. bearings looked fine. Try to wash it out of a pan with solvent or thinner or gas! Good luck! It's the old green Kendall.
The cheapest on the shelf at walmart. Put 5w30 in in November, change to 10w30 in March and change to 20w50 in June. Which reminds me, it's time to get that winter oil out!
castrol.. what does their zddp levels look like? Never head of the brad penn oil.. ive been looking into it though... at first it sounded a little mom and pop... but im reading about alot of loyalty to them.
I lost a new / rebuilt '65 327 last fall , less than 1500 miles because of oil . Fresh motor now with an Isky soild cam + other good stuff . Papers with cam recommend Brad Penn oil as #1 . I called and talked with Ron Iskenderian about oil issues and now will only use Brad Penn....Used Joe Gibbs for brake in , switched to Brad Penn at 500 miles . Have a little over 1000 total now and all is good ......... Z
Valvoline has true Valvoline Racing Oil and VR-1 they are not the same thing. The racing oil has addtives that break down quicker than street oils like all race oils. The VR-1 additives are designed for street use. I feel that the lack of ZDDP in modern oil is a cost thing. It is not as bad as on cats as it is made up to be. Just my .02 Smokey
That valvoline vr1 seems like a good choice.. however one guy here said it had no zinc. The Mobil 1 oil is another option. However I dont think it is out yet. The Lucas 15 40 seems ok.. but never heard of you guys say anything about it. Ive sent a request to Brad penn.. after doing some research found out that they are put out by American Refining Group... same that puts out that gulf oil. Also looking into the Joe Gibbs stuff.. the website dummy proofs it by calling it hotrod oil. http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html
We add zddplus to whatever oil we want to run for that particular application. check out www.zddplus.com Solves all your problems right there. Sometimes I put a quart of valvolene racing non synthetic 20/50 that has the zinc additive in the trunk for top offs. p.s. We just tore apart a 63 Olds 394 engine where the rockers and rails were all worn super grooved out. Once there is some wear on the parts, and no zinc, things can wear out super fast. Wil www.sakowskimotors.com LA / Wilmington, N.C.
As a side note. With Brad Penn in an injected alky dragster, even running rich, you could pull the valve covers and the oil standing in the head would be perfectly clean, not milky, there would be small drops, looked like water. you could poke them with your finger and it was alky, pure alky. It wouldn't mix with the oil. You sure could heat the oil and burn off the alky and re-use the oil, I've never done it but know guys that do. Lippy
I use Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 in all my engines except my Dodge ***mins Turbo Diesel that uses Shell Rotella T 15w-40 Triple Protection CJ-4
im gonna have to go check out this VR1... still waiting for a reply from brad penn. Just out of curiousity how often do you change your oil with that VR1. on another note about that brad penn.. I read that they boast the most ppm of the Zddp agent. wonder if any of you have any confirmation of this.. still looking for a list I saw a little while ago that listed that here on the hamb.
I run Rotell in my 56 Bird, 312 powered 54. I broke in the 54 engine with Rotella and the GM stuff. Even the later Rotella has enough ZDDP (the CJ stuff) Any 20-50 oil has more than enough ZDDP. Some of the racing oils do not have the proper additives for street use, don't know which ones.
so whats the verdict out on the VR1 oil?? and what weight would be a good weight for my 302 in arkansas? Autozone had some odd ball weights in the VR1 oil.
Amsoil. I drive a 84 Volvo 130 miles round trip a day to go to work. It had 140K on it when I bought it,it now has 343000 miles on it and I quit changing the oil and filter about 3 years ago. I just add oil when it needs it. Fred
I have used Shell Rotella T for 10 years now and I use it in everything, even the lawn tractor. When I bought my Bonneville racing engine, the builder told me to use only Shell Rotella T or the guarantee was no good.
Amsoil makes a 10-W-40 motor oil with high zinc content designed especially for flat-tappet engines. We sell it where I work and it's what I use. A little expensive, maybe...but I see it as cheap insurance and adequate peace of mind!
yeah my engine builder said the same thingg... but since then they have changed the oil to have less zinc.... so its not the same ol oil it used to be... Apparently its still pretty good oil and has a good amount of the zinc but not what it used to be.
I use Schaeffer's Racing Oil http://www.schaefferoil.com/markets_racing.html Have had very good results, Made in USA..........
I used Castrol GTX 20/50 for a long time and still have no issues with it. The 20/50's are not subject to the EPA rules concerning ZDDP and cat contamination. I have been using Valvoline 20/50 VR1 Racing oil for a couple of years now in both my cars and customers. My 11 3/4:1 aluminum head 302 gets changed about every 3-5000 miles depending on how long the time frame has been. I had it apart to repaint the block before the GNRS so I checked bearings and cam wear and everything looked good. It has about 30,000 miles on it now.
Chevron Delo 400. It is rated SL ( Gas ) and CJ (diesel ) 1300 zddp... And you can get it everywhere ! I am a big fan of Mobil one,Amsoil,Redline,Royal purple,Brad Penn etc. But you cannot always find it when you need it.. IMO the best conventional oil is Valvoline but..See above ^ ! I have been in the auto parts and machine shop business since 1969..I have torn down thousands of engines and yes, Pennzoil and Castrol leave residue. Not that they are bad oils,, they just leave deposits.. So here is my advice... If you want an oil that you can get anywhere ,and will withstand 24 to 1 compression and lots of contamination ( diesel anyone ?? ) and still has enough zinc for your flat tappet motor ... Use Delo 400 . BTW, Rotella t 30 is just as good. Dave
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