Quick Tip: How to hold that flywheel still!

So I was trying to remove my flywheel this past weekend, but when I tried to remove the bolts, the damned thing kept spinning, crank and all. I took one of the arms off my engine stand, attached one end to the block like you normally would, and the end that attaches to the stand I attached to the flywheel. Viola, problem solved.

Mike

 

Brilliant!! Much better that a screwdriver in the ring gear!!

 

That's a new one! WTG. Guess it's time for the old garage tips post again!
I'll start one up.

 

WOW!
What's most cool about it is it's damn near one-size-fits-all.
Just need different bolts for different engines, and maybe a piece of rubber or cork glued to the flywheel side to keep it from accodentally scoringor gouging the clutch surface.

THANKS!

 

Doesn't seem to be a problem, DrJ; the bar attaches outside the clutch disc contact area.

 

FWIW I just attach vice-grips to the flywheel.

 

Like Andy said I've just used vise-grips or a small c-clamp on the flywheel and have it rest up against a bolt inserted in a bellhousing bolt hole.


Frank

 

An old Car Craft mag from to seventies showed me how to bend an old intake valve 90 deg. stick the stem in bellhousing hole and lip in flywheel and viola: flywheel stop.

 

You guys that use a flywheel tooth to catch and stop a flywheel are risking a busted flywheel tooth.

I like the method at the very top of this thread. Not all flywheels are flush with the bellhousing surface, though, so spacers may have to be on hand for the type engine you work with.

 

Don't mean to hijack this post. But does anyone have any tips on removing the torque converter once the ****** is unbolted. I just did that recently, seperated the motor and ****** and then ralized that I didn't unbolt the converter. Had to stab them both together again. ALso had a hard time spinning the flywheel to get to the other bolts. Any good tips out there?

 

[ QUOTE ]
You guys that use a flywheel tooth to catch and stop a flywheel are risking a busted flywheel tooth.

I like the method at the very top of this thread. Not all flywheels are flush with the bellhousing surface, though, so spacers may have to be on hand for the type engine you work with.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey Blown,

The flywheel pictured above is not flush with the bell housing. It sticks out a couple inches. A better photo on my part would have shown that better. Sorry.

The spacing is handled pretty nicely by the engine stand bracket.

 

an impact wrench works well too - you don't even have to hold it!

 

Sooo ****** simple! That's a great tip.

 

That's clever.

 

[ QUOTE ]
an impact wrench works well too - you don't even have to hold it!

[/ QUOTE ]

I tried that first!!

The damned bolts would not budge, so I had to revert to holding the flywheel still and using a big lever.

 

no ****!!!!! that is a slick idea - I am going to be eye balling the ones on my stand in the future!