Ammunition box I sectioned about eight inches each way to use as a battery box. Sure I'm not the first or only one to do it but it will look rad in the passenger floorboard. Still have to weld it back together. I'll drill some drain holes at the bottom and vent holes at the top. Hold down will basically be an insulated plate on top of the battery with two large set screws (3/8" or so) through the lid after it's locked in place.
Cool idea. I was wondering today what I could use for a battery box in the trunk of my car.... What are you going to use for insulating material? How are you going to run the cables in? Cool stuff man.
The owner of the Tall T gave me one he found to put in his car, but its kind of modern looking. I like yours a lot better...
I plan on just welding it back together - I won't mind the seams showing so I probably won't even dress the welds unless they're rediculously ugly. Shoot it with chassis black like everything else that isn't sheet metal and be done. Cables will pass through two u-shaped slots cut in the top of the box - edged with split fuel line to keep from chafing. Don't really see the need to insulate the entire box if I have a proper hold down. Lid might be insulated with something...rubber? wood? whatever I have on hand at that time. Thanks for the compliments everyone.
Yeah, my battery will be pretty damn secure. It just worked out that way when I layed it out with a sharpie but I'm stoked I was able to keep all of those latches. I think they look neat even if it is a bit much. Probably way too much work just for a battery box but in this car I really couldn't see doing it any other way.
<font color="red"> Dude killer idea.......note to self...must find old ammo box! R E D M E A T </font>
Thought about the nice round "battle" grommets - I had originally thought to just drill holes and use them... and they sure would look great until I had to quickly take my battery out of the box for any reason. Don't know what that reason would be - but I'm sure I would find out as soon as the cables were ran and the terminals were bolted in place. I figure this way I just slide the cables into the slots and the lid caps them off. Then if I want the bat. out the lid comes off and I can yank the battery just like that. Slots will face the firewall so you won't see the ugliness. Thanks though. COMPLETELY UNRELATED but since I know what you do with the rest of your play money I'll throw this out - Kryptonite locks can be picked with nothing more than a ball point pen. Found that out today. No shit. Insanely simple. My town bike is a fixed gear - yours might be too - so I welcome anyone to try to steal it... but I thought you'd want the lock info anyway.
Thanks Kev, always carry TWO types of locks! Cable and Kryptonight. SHhhhhhhhhhh careful this is O/T, the Moderators might get pissy And FWIW, I have protected cars AND trailors with Krptos and cable locks! Good things to have
Do battery boxes need vents? I remember hearing that somewhere but I don't see it much on the cars that have aftermarket boxes.
Are ammunition boxes readily avalible at army surplus stores? What is the smallest size of ammunition boxes? That a neat idea Grimlok, definatly a different look.
Grim, are you telling us your not going to have a floor in your car or will you have a hole cut in the floor so you can see the amo box??--TV
I'm telling you I will have a (safe) rudimentary floor just to get on the road but it will be ripped out later when I get a bellypan finshed. No hole in the floor - the box won't fit anywhere between the frame and cross member anyway. It will be in plain view on the passenger side floorboard as close to the firewall as I can get - passengers could rest their feet on it if they stretch out. After the bellypan is done I will just have a couple of foot wells to keep feet from falling into the pan - if that makes sense. I'm also telling you that instead of wasting time cutting up ammo boxes I should have been finishing up the pattern...main part is done but I just need to add the inlets/outlets and take a few minutes with a marker to show where the fan will be.
Uou can still use the grommits... drill the holes where the cables need to go and then cut down to the holes with two cuts and the grommits will slide into place and protect the cables from the inevitable chafing that will take place. Also, I like the idea of the hold down bolts and a plate across the battery... NHRA legal with 3/8 studs and that's the way I always do it... but you could also weld some angle iron or other pieces of steel to hold the battery from moving side to side and then do the same on the lid. Properly insulated with rubber, it would hold the battery in place and only require the removal of the lid to get the battery out. Are you going to remove the extra latches on the long side so the thing has only four latches?? Sam.
Kilroy - Yes, battery boxes do need vents. Even healthy batteries give off chemical vapor that you don't want to be trapped or under pressure. Hey Eddie, try Collector's Firearms near 59. They should have or know where you can get a bike sized box. I never thought of that for a bike but it's a very cool idea.
The Jalopy Journal
