Just got a 33 with a 235 ,I think its a 54 front motor mount . I had 2 question's How do you time it ,and I would like to split the manifold and run duals ,what muffler's or straight pipes ,building a mild hot rod Thanks for any ideas
I have Fenton cast headers on mine. It's got a pretty hot cam. I'm running 1 and 3/4 inch pipe with dual gl***packs. Sounds pretty good.
www.inliners.org to id the year. timing: loosten the bolt that holds the distributor to the block. set the little "octane selector" (the little gauge like thing under the bolt) to "0", put your timing light on #1, idle it and aim the light back at the bell housing hole with the pointer in it. Adjust the timing ball to line up with the pointer and you have it. Might have to adjust it a bit one way or the other but getting hte ball on the pointer gets you pretty damn close. A corvette exhaust manifold or the real early Fenton with the cast in heat box would be the cats *** on this car Nice car by the way
I've got a stock 235 manifold set that has been split, you can have it for shipping cost. If interested send me a message and I'll send you a pic. It is not a Fenton but it's free.
Its a 55 to 62 motor and the clue is to the low mounted water pump,if it was a 54 motor the fan would be a bit higher. One thing nice on installing a later 235 in a 36 on back is the earlier motors were a little longer then the 216s and 235 and the water pump on the later motor might not have to be shortened.
Don't forget to disconnect the vac. advance while setting the timing.You set the octain selector at 0 then lock it down,to adjust the basic timing loosen the clamp screw/bolt around the dist shaft to move it. Set the points used .016 first. The octain selector is handy for fine adjustments later.
You don't have to disconnet the vacuum advance for timing with ported vacuum (above throttle plate) like on your setup.
What is the black canister on the firewall? It's says "....Fluid" and doesn't look like its plumbed like a remote oil filter. I love to find a 33 chevy one day with a 235/261. Got more pics?
The car has Hyd Brake that is the canister for fluid ,just got the car first time it was started in 30 yrs was yesterday ,Drives like a new car
Concreteman, it looks like it has the torque tube and orig trans? mabye out of a 36 if its hydraulic brakes?? Keep us updated on the details.
Oh, so this is the stock setup for the brakes? Interesting. Wow - it's perfect! You are a lucky man! Any other mods besides the engine swap? Are you gonna drive it much?
Hi guys ,any more tips on setting the timming ,starts fine ,runs rough and back fires thru carb at little ,did not see the octane selector Thanks
The octain selector is some marks on the end of the hold down bracket under the hex bolt. Set that at zero ,tighten bolt ,then loosen screw on shank/body of dist. to rotate the dist to set timing. Check acelerator pump for good squirt .also gunk my be built up in carb from setting. Most of those old 235 style engines do not run real smooth at a real fast unloaded idle,random missing is common no biggy.
You asked about split manifolds. I like the Fentons. They have ports for a heat riser that is essential for atomizing the fuel in the intake. Below is a link to a video of a previous set-up I was running on my 235. The split exhaust are Fentons. The intake is a dual Fenton using 2 Carter YF's. I have since started using the 216 intakes with adaptor rings. I prefer these since they allow the use of Carter W-1's or Carter WA-1's without modifying the mounting flanges. Both of those use leather pumps (so work better with modern fuel) and perform better as multiples. 574s for the W-1's seem to be best. I have a pair of 2013s WA-1's from a Hudson Hornet that was designed to run duals that may even be better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Uptu7YaPTM
I would start with getting a carb rebuilt kit with a carb base gasket that lines up with the holes on the base of the carb. Check the vacuum advance line for leaks and any other manifold leaks. Get new distr. cap, rotor, points, condensor, check all spark wires and get new spark plugs. Also check for good wires to and from the coil. Then I would time by lining up the pointer at the flywheel mark or advance a few degrees and look for a steady and stable advance when revving up to 1500-2000 rpm. If it still gives problems, the distributor may be worn and loose and may need replacing. Or maybe the valves are sticking. Hooking up a vacuum gauge to the manifold should reveal any issues.
going by the water pump and lack of 3-bolt side mounts, its a 55-57 engine. the vac mechanism is clamped onto the dizzy, and then the whole thing is bolted to the block. If the timing is off only a few degrees, you can correct it by loosening the bolt that hold the whole in the block, otherwise you will need to loosen the clamping bolt and rotate the dizzy within the vac mechanism itself. Disconnect the vac line and verify the rpms are where they need to be for the timing setting. There is a window in the front of the bellhousing above the starter with a pointer in it. There is a "ball" on the face of the flywheel. Line the ball up with the pointer and your done. You may ned to go back and forth between adjusting the carb idle speed and the timing until it give you the proper reading at the right rpms.
Don't unhook anything. Just loosen the screw that holds the advance unit clamp to the distributor until you can turn it by hand with some resistance. Fire it up, take it down the road about 15 MPH in 2nd gear & punch it. Advance timing until it pings, back it off til it goes away. CCW is advance, CW is retard ...
I'd take a look at the valve springs also.If they have rust or pitting from sitting they will not hold true valve adjustment and eventually fail.I went thru this with a rebuilt, unfired 235 that sat for a very long time. .
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