Here are the before pics. Hope this works. If this is too much for one post please, Ryan, let me know. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWtrunk.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWtailpan.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWtail.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWrtrrqtr.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWrrfloor.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWrrbrake.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWroof.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWrearfloor.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWrearaxle.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWp***cowl.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWlftrearqtr.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWfrtcrossmem.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWfrtaxle.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWfront.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWframe.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWfloorpan.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWdrvside.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/NEWdrvfloorpan.jpg And here is what I think I'm going to do with it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Nashrodman/35%20Ford%20after/grayhiboy.bmp
Looks pretty good to me. I personally like 35-36 ford coupes SLAMMED with fenders but it's your call. Nice start.
I am 90% (not 100%) sure that I am going this route. I can get a complete nose and rear fenders but at a cost of $2000. That's a little more than I have to spend for now since I need about $1200 for repair panels and $700 for a good compressor (my current AC will only put out 5-6 CFM). This will be fun and my first try at rust/body panel repair. I'll be looking for help from all HAMBers. I think I should start with the new rockers, right, or should I start with repairing the lower door jambs then the rockers? I was going to do the repair panels then move to the frame. Any advice from anyone is appreciated. Paul
Nice condition! My friend has a 3 window. That's what got me "stuck" on 35's. The 40's used to be my favorite!
good luck with the build up... I had to replace pretty much the same panels as you have to as well.. got them all from EMS - panels were pretty good to be honest. If it helps ive got a web site with the buildup of how mine went you can find it at www.garagescene.co.uk heres a pic to show what i started with... ...and heres a couple of piccies to show how it turned out!
WeeMark....nice ride! NashRodMan....you gotta leave the fenders on bro. Fat fender cars lose their *** appeal without fenders. Here is a shot of my ex 35 3w. On to a '36 5w now.
yep 296v8 im from scotland... long way from you guys....NashRodMan i think i would be tempted to leave the fenders on as well.. does your car not have fenders which are repairable? 3 window cars coupes are very cool - but i think 3/5 window 35/36's are the best looking coupes out of all the early fords - the lines are just sooo smooth on them... good luck paul - seems like you have a lot of work ahead of you.
Nashrod, my car was pretty rusted too when I started and I also had few tools (or experience). My advice: Don't skimp on the tools - especially the compressor (get a BIG one) - buy what you need as soon as you need it if you can - air tools will save so much effort. I tried to get by with a wimpy compressor and few tools for about a year and finally realized how much time and effort I was wasting by doing so. Don't make it any harder on yourself than you need to. Also, when there is that much rust to repair, it's easy to get discouraged. Don't. Just keep plugging away and you will get it done eventually. If your rockers are solid enough that you think you can remove the body without having it twist, I'd blow the thing all apart and take and get it blasted so that you can really see where to rot ends and the solid begins. It's a big time saver AND it will make the patch panel job much cleaner if you're not digging around in the rust to do it. Plus the welds will be much easier to do, cleaner and stronger if you get rid of the rust FIRST. Another tip: Anywhere you can't reach to get the rust out - like inside rockers and other cavities - spray inside them with POR 15. Otherwise even though you've removed rust from the outside, it'll keep rusting from the inside out and eventually ruin all your hard work. And FWIW I also would highly recommend fenders on that car - it just looks better on 35 and up bodies.
Another tip: Before replacing rockers, jambs - stuff like that. Put the door on and line up the body lines. Then use them as a guide for placing the rockers. Don't just place the rockers where it looks like the used to be. Otherwise you get them on there and then try to put the doors on and line 'em up and realize things aint where they should be.
Nash, looks like 36 front sheet metal on your ride .. Trust me, wee marks wasnt any better looking than yours, Take it easy with the repairs .. one step at a time.. break the jobs into small projects and complete each as you go,,The EMS panel are good but do need t******* and some shaping on a shrinker stretcher,, if you dont have one of these tools BUY ONE you wont regret it for a minute..Unless you have lots of air tools a compressor isnt the first item i would purchase for the build of your rod,, looking at it .. I would get me a bech or vise mounted Guilotine, the shrinker stretcher as mentioned and a cheap bead roller..also high on the list would be a few sets of Vise grips, a hand jogler, a couple of 41/2 inch grinders, and a reasonable body hammer and dolly set .. your gonna be using them often. ALSO at least one pair of GILBOW shears (large ones ) and a couple of sets of aircraft type shears. That little lot would come to a little over what your compressor would cost but will stand you in good stead for the repairs that are required on your body. Good luck with the build take it easy plan it well and keep focussed and youll do alright.. p.s the fenders on Weemarks car were no better than yours, dont expect miracles overnight there is at least 50/60 hours in each fender.. the tail pan inner skin will also need replaced.. and thats a complete bstrd.. did i mention that the EMS lower quarter repair panels are not contoured .. there swaged and all but they are FLAT and not curved to suit the body shape .. ( hence the need for the shrinker/ stretcher) Fit a dozen times and weld it once .. tack tack tack keep the heat down specially in the door skin repairs and lower quarters..those high crown panels just love to loose there shape.
Hey Paul, I see you got the photobucket thing figured out. The pictures look good. Do you have any full pictures of the project? When did you finally get it home? PM me your address some time so I can check it out. Keith
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the good info and insight. I guess I'm going back to the full fender look (damn, I thought I was going to save myself $2000). I know of a guy in New Hampshire with the nose and rear fenders who was selling them at Amherst but he was jerking me around pricewise at the TYrods cruise (he thinks he's got a ****er I guess. He can keep it!). Oh well. Anyone got a nose and rear fenders for me?? Weemark, thanks for the website, I'll put it as one of my favs. Your car looks awesome! Not sure about the rearend, a friend thinks its from a 50's chvevy truck. Leadsledmerc, I'll PM ya my address and we can hook up sometime. As I think I've said in the first post this will be my first try at rust/panel repair and I think it will be fun. I've done a lot of reading on this and am not afraid to try anything. I will go for the big compressor though, mine comes on 30 seconds after firing up the die grinder with a cutting wheel on it! And some more tools. Thanks for the tips! Later Paul P.S. I'll post some pics of the Nash tomorrow.
nash.. i think cleatus advice is excellent - get the body/ch***is media blasted if you can - it does save a lot of time and as he mentions it lets you know where the bad metal is so you are not trying to weld good metal to rusty metal.. as for starting to cust out the rus I would do the floor and the tunnel first and give the shell some of its strength back before chopping anything else around - also try keeping the car on the ch***is as much as possible when replacing panels thus keeping the body straight - that way you can change over most of the panels and s***ch them in from the top - then lift the car off the ch***is then weld underneath.
[ QUOTE ] good luck with the build up... I had to replace pretty much the same panels as you have to as well.. got them all from EMS - panels were pretty good to be honest. If it helps ive got a web site with the buildup of how mine went you can find it at www.garagescene.co.uk heres a pic to show what i started with... ...and heres a couple of piccies to show how it turned out! [/ QUOTE ] That is a totally cool ride but I would be scared ****less I was going to rip the bottom of the grille off every time I drove it. I drag the trailer hitch on my pickup to get around this town.
Thanks for the pictures Paul. That's quite a project you have in front of you. I'm an open wheel man, but I agree that fat fendered cars need fenders. Don't worry about running out and getting fenders right away, you have plenty to keep you busy for awhile. Keep your ear to the ground, you may find a cheaper set that the $2000 ones. It was good meeting you at Ty-Rods on Sunday. Hope to hook up with you again sometime. Paul
Nice project. Can't wait to see another cool ole HotRod hit the streets. keep us posted as your working.
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