How to get rings to re-seat?

Kano labratories,the makers of Kroil makes a substance called Kreen(?).I've used it and it helped on older motors. I have a car that rarely gets driven on t he highways.I put some in and took it on a road trip.2nd tank the mileage jumped UP 2 mpg.Google Kano labs.

 

I do believe there is no fix with liquids and cleaners. Just pull the motor and do it right.

 

I don't think Bon-Ami has the same abrasive agent as Ajax, Comet etc. In my travel trailer it says to do all the plastic (sinks, shower etc) with Bon-Ami, not Comet etc .. The reason, it doesn't scratch stuff ...

 

The Top Engine Cleaner did the trick for a '64 Buick Skylark I once bought from the estate of a 92 year old man who never left village limits with it. It both smoked and ran on something terrible until I gave it "the treatment", and like you said, when I took it out of town and put it to the floor, it smoked like a freight train for 2 or 3 miles, then cleared up and behaved itself for the rest of the time I owned it. What the hell---if it doesn't fix your stuck rings, you're out a big five bucks.

 

what i have found works really good is SEAFOAM in the crankcase in a bit higher than the reccomended dose. it frees up lifters and rings like nothing else ive used.

add it to the fuel too

 

Yes, I did. Still don't think I'll put it in any engine I have. That's just how I roll.

 

One thing my Dad showed me one of my cars years ago was about a 1/2 to 3/4 of a can of ATF in the gas tank, ATF first then the gas on top, and drive it for a long ways going up in down on the gas, but not wide open, just like beaking in a new motor. Change oil right after, it usually worked pretty good. Sometimes had to repeat it a couple of times to get it totally right.

 

I have used brake fluid on top of pistons overnite with good results. Have also poured coke bottle full of hot water down carb of fast running engine to unstick top rings and decarbonize cylinders and valves. Bon Jour !

 

Brake fluid is an old trick that is no longer applicable. A long time ago when BF was actually made out of oil, it was fine, but not so anymore.

BF is now made out of poly glycol. Similar to the stuff in antifreeze.

The molecular structure if BF is composed of an extremely fine [small] molecule that is capable of migrating into [penetrating] other substances with ease, which is why it will eat the paint off your fender if you spill it.

Yes, poly glycol based BF will infact eat away carbon deposits and free up rings like nothing else. Indeed it works great, but if you pour it down the cylinder, it will wash away all of the protective oil from the cyl wals, and it will leak down into the crank-case and contaminate the motor oil.

If left in the oil, it effectively thins the viscosity, thereby lowering the oils ability to lubricate. It also seeps into gaskets and seals, destroying them.

I'm not saying I'm too good to use this trick. I have done it before, and it works great to clean carbon deposits out of an engine. But if you do, after allowing it to sit overnight, chase it down with some oil in the cyl's before cranking it to protect them, and change the oil after it quits smoking.

 

Oh, one more thing.
Burning poly glycol releases a gas called acroline that is extremely dangerous to humans.

Funny [if not fortunately], acroline is not dangerous to the environment, as it breaks down within 24 hours once exposed to oxygen and UV in sunlight. What's more, it breaks down into compounds of nitrogen which actually act as a firtilizer to living plants...

Who woulda thunk it?

 

Should I pour BF on my posies?

 

Stop breathing the damn fumes! Your killing off brain cells too quickly!

 

tried the water trick, no go
tried the kroil while running, no go
tried diesel while running, no go

Got the cylinders filled with PB blaster, and im gonna go buy some MMO

and 3 new plugs

Gonna put antiseize on em this time!

 

NOOOOOO.....
Not while running!!! Soak the cylinders and let it sit overnight!!!!!

 

Yea, their soaking now, and i stink somthing terrible like burnt oil

 

You do realize that ring seal is not an instantaneous process, right? You do something, then it either clears up in a few weeks or not. A lot of the cleaning process is just loosening the deposits enough that they'll work out with some use. Even if a bunch of crap comes out during the cleaning, re-seal will take some miles & heat cycles.

good luck

 

So how is this bon ami trick done? I got some new rings that refuse to seat. Its got me at my wit's end and ready to dump the motor.

Do I mix it with gas and poor or dust it in the carb? How much should I dump in at a time?

 

Reviving a dead thread, found some of this info based on what i was told about what my problem potentially may be.
This is by no means a hot rod, but i am a hot rod enthusiast like everyone else and have been wrenching on cars since 2002 out of highschool.
My issue is a lot of oil consumption-to the tune of about 1 quart per 60-90 minutes, and smoking under half to WOT (oil burning).
I got the engine from the junkyard, my belief and CHANCE, has always been if the car got hit odds are the engine is good, well ive pulled countless engines over the past couple years-thats how i make money, and the one bad engine i get is mine
Ive isolated the problem to hole 5, the engine is a 3.5 straight 6 (its a BMW-from the 80s), the plug becomes oil fouled in about 7 days of driving until it has to be replaced, thats the leas tof my worries since ive spent 200 in oil in the past couple months however.
When i pulled the engine back in 11/2008, i drained the oil and then let it set on the floor sideways in my garage until mid march of this year when i installed it.
I did a wet and dry compression test with the engine hot, all my numbers were good and jumped the normal amount across each hole except 5, im thinking since it burns so much that oil is always in hole 5 and i cannot get an accurate dry compression test reading. The manual calls for 145-160 PSI as reasonable numbers:

hot dry/hot wet
1-180/188
2-148/168
3-151/172
4-148/171
5-158/162
6-155/179

I think number 1 was actually 160/168, my flashlight died during the testing of number 1 and i couldnt see anything....but thats aside from the fact, its not using any oil-none of them are but hole 5.

Yesterday i was discussing with fellow enthusiasts (around 40+ years of age who have been wrenching their whole lives) the issue and two of them brought up using laundry soap crystals (the powder kind) to reseat the rings somehow, i was told to read up on it and well...now im here. I have known about this forum for quite some time but never registered. I didnt want to make another topic on this issue since im assuming this is the issue.

On a side note, i got the engine because not only was it hit in the fender, it also had the dual mounting bosses that allows it to be a direct bolt on into the car, and that it had marks that it had been machined or rebuilt on the back of the head and block. I am SERIOUSLY wondering if its not the ring seating issue but someone forgot to install the oil control ring on hole 5.
My other question to myself...was the owner of that car REALLY putting in 1 quart per hour like i am? Odds are they werent an enthusiast (almost nobody is to those cars) and it didnt burn oil.

Any help is appreciated, i have already purchased another engine but would rather fix this issue than wasting my time swapping in another for something i could have fixed easily. Im about at my wits end, ive had nothing but bad luck with this car

 

marvel mystery oil down the cylynders of coarse