school me on welding

so im just about ready to get my first welder and i dont really know much. i plan on welding things such as tube bumpers, role cage, and possible a frame in the future.

im thinking a lincoln 220, what model would be good for the above and would 110 volt work?

what gas mixture for the above?

what type of wire (i know what size) like flux core or solid?

any other comments would be appreciated, and i used the search button but if something like this was already posted flame away.

thanks

 

Some really good posts over at the Garage Journal

 

You don't mention your level of welding ability, that's what will dictate how successful you will be. If you're not a welder, enroll in a local community college course, they will give you the basic tools to build with, and it will also allow you to get a better feel for the equipment, hands-on

 

Do way "Electrodude" suggests. There's lots of good knowledge you can get from a welding instructor that's not written down in any book - including choosing a welder.

 

Sice you are fairly close, I would recommend taking one of the welding courses at College of the Canyons in Santa Clarita. It is a bit of a drive from Glendora, but well worth it. I went there 20 years ago, got 3 certifications and went to work.

 

If your even contiplating any frame work I'd recommend going to a 220 machine right off the bat. If you start with a 110 you'll soon regret not having the extra power.

Frank

 

Self taught welder here.110 sheetmetal arc 220 frames and heavy stuff.Buy books and take a course.I wish i could of took a course.I know i still can,if i wanted to.There's alot to know.

 

I bought a hobart handler 135 it is OK but I really wish I would have bought a 220V welder you are very limited with any 110V welder. I agree with taking a class and then deciding where to go from there

 

im curious as to how many of these same threads can we have!!!???

 

I'm still, pretty much, a newcomer here, but it seems some threads have an indefinate shelf life. Welding 101 seems to be the "Hostess Twinkies" of threads

 

I recommend gettin' a lot of welding time in and gettin' "pretty darn good" before you tackle a roll cage. If it has to be certed (9.99, quicker), the chassis inspector will be lookin' pretty closely for penetration and lack of bird dookey. I recommend to all the younguns to fit up the bars and tack weld them in place, then call a mobile certified aircraft welder to come over with his rig and finish it. It'll be the cheapest money you ever spent on a car. Been there, done that.

 

+1 on Electro's recommendation. Also may want to check out some of the welding forums.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/

 

I was a hack welder and then took a course at my local trade school and they tought me a ton. Best money I have spent, its been 3 yrs now and I have gotten a little rusty but it dosen't take me long at all to get back in the swing of thing when I start welding. I bought a Clark 180EN 220v and I think its great, if you can, stay away from flux core and go with gas and buy the best machine you can for the money you have, I do not regret buying a 220v at all.

 

thanks ya'll guess i will sign up for a class. and i said roll cage and bumpers to give everyone an idea of what materials i would be working with. i wouldnt tackle something like that without experience. and yeah i know there are alot of welding threads on here and i looked at alot of them and took notes but none really had the answers i needed.

 

You may find that your local welding supply may offer classes as well. I have one scoped out for my deadbeat son when he gets old enough to drop out of school, I'm going to make him go and get certified, then kick his lazy butt out.

 

If you can't afford a school like me , you can get many good books and DVD's that will show you how to do it . What you have to do is get a pile of scrap metal that you will be using and practice , practice , practice until you can do it good . You don't need pretty "C" welds , just strong ones . Pretty will come later , if not a good grinder will fix that problem !
Just practice and make strong welds .

 

Don't sweat it, we all ask questions on here that have been asked before, sometimes it's necessary, and in this case nothing to be embarassed about. It sounds like you're really interested in welding and you're taking the right steps to learning because you're willing to ask.

To answer your original question, go with a 220V welder, save up and spend the extra money for gas and a name brand. I'm sure that there are good off brand welders out there, but if you don't have the extra money to screw around with, why bother? A little extra out up front will pay for itself over and over again

If you don't have access to a class, get books, videos, whatever, and practice. Practice a lot, then go to a local welding shop and ask questions about specific things you are trying to do, not generic welding questions. If they ask you what you know, tell them not much at all but you want to learn. You might get blown off a few times, but there are guys out there who will be willing to take the time to give you some help.

Good luck, welding is one of my most favorite things to do, very cathartic, for me at least...

 

Just don't grind on cage welds. The Tech Inspector will send you home.

 

Junk Fiend, This Trans Am front clip was done using a Miller 110 V welder. I think the wire was .O35 dia. I will get the model # of the welder if you are interested. Make a decision about what kind of welder to buy after you take your welding class. Buy the best you can afford. And remember...everyone is an expert.

 

Sign up at a technical colledge near you .
Welding is not something you learn from web sites i'm affraid.

 

I suspect learning to gas weld makes the rest much easier, oxy acetylene is fundamental automotive workshop plant isn't it?

 

I'm currently enrolled in oxy acetylene at a local tech school; and I'm having the time of my life! I'm gonna add myself to the line of folks recommending taking a course. Best money and time I've spent in a long long time. And it's not as expensive as you might think. Something like 350 bucks or so has gotten me several months, four hours a week, of unlimited consumables, some of the nicest equipment around, and mountains and mountains of steel to just burn up! With the price of metal and gas alone, I couldn't touch that kinda money doing the same in my garage. No way. Also, as someone stated here earlier, welding instructors are some of the most knowledgable guys around. Mine was a production welder for years, and he's got a head full of information that could fill novels. Once these guys figure out that you're serious about learning and actually using the knowledge, there's nothing they love more than passing on whatever they know to you.
I look forward to monday nights like you wouldn't believe.

 

In my small garage I have a cheap 110 flux core wire feed. I only use it because it is portable. It does stick stuff together but it is a nasty looking weld at best. I also have a 220 AC buzz box run off my drier plug in the utility room. I mostly like to run 7014 in it. I can walk across the yard and use a DC buzz box that is a little better, at least run 7018. My neighbor has a Lincoln SAE 250 diesel that will spoil you, and I can use it any time. I also have oxy-acetelene and do some wire welding and brazing. The big lincoln and 7018 makes the best weld.

 

I am a welding instructor in San Diego, and I encougage you to take a class. Ask a bunch of questions and don't allow yourself to get frustrated. There are many good replies to your question here. But an important aspect to consider when buying a welder is duty cycle. most of the 110 volt welders have a 20% to 30% duty cycle at full power, and if you are planning to weld roll cages, then it is going to need to be full power on those small units. In simple terms duty cycle is a percentage of time that the machine can be used in a given amount of time. For example 20% duty cycle can be explained like this; at full power the welder can be in use for only 2 minutes out of 10. You will know when you start reaching that threashold because you will start to loose penetration and you'll wish that you spent the extra money and got a 220v rig.
Important thing to realize that welding students all learn at different rates. I have had really smart guys in class who build rocket engines for a living and have had a harder time with it than the guy in the next booth who just got out of prison. What side of the tracks you come from has nothing to do with how you grasp the concept. Don't be in a race to keep up with the guy who started the class the same time as you. It is more important to understand the theory, because when welds fail people could die.
Some times there is a long wait list for these welding classes, ours currently is at around 70 people long, so sign up now. If you have trouble getting in and you have already purchased your welder, practice and post some pics we can let you know what needs to be adjusted. A big factor in welding strong joints is joint design and fit-up. take the time to bevel the joints and fit it as tight as you can get it. If you are using solid wire then a good gas to use is argon co2 mixture. The amount of mix is dependant on your application, spray arc transfer can only occur above 85% argon. But generally 75% argon 25% co2 is standard. The stick out of you wire from the gun is very important. Different wires have different stick out, know what the stickout is, most of the solid wires are 1/2 inch stick out from the CONTACT TIP not the nozzle. Clean the material really good, rust and oxidation melt at a much higher temp than the metal does and it will weaken your weld. Do not weld with out leathers on, welding gloves at least, a jacket as well is best but long sleaves will be okay for mig, but there is a good chance of getting burned. Welding with short sleaves will give you the worst sunburn on the inside of your elbows you have ever had.
Have fun and ask questions if you need to.