I've got a 59 Edsel and when I start it, I have to keep the key in the start position, keeping the starter engaged to keep the car running. As soon as I let it go to the on position, it instantly shuts off. I replaced the battery, starter solenoid, and the ignition and it still did not fix the problem. Someone said something about a resistor, is that the solenoid? If not, what does it look like, or where would it be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! Cesare
sounds like your not wired up correctly, with the switch in the run position you should have power to the points, i bet you dont.
Ok, well, can you bare with me? This is my first old car. What wiring should I check? I know the ignition is right. How/Where should I check the wiring at. I probably should try and find a wiring diagram for the car.
You're wired incorrectly on one of the posts on your ignition switch. One wire needs to be taken of the "start" and returned to the "run" where it used to be. Or that wire came loose.
look for the ballast resistor..it a white ceramic deal with a wire on each end...it probably the culprit
well you need a test light or a multi meter, turn the switch to the run position and check to see if you have power to the coil, i kinda think you will find theres is no power, look around and see if you can find a wire that is just hanging there going no place, a loose wire, check to see if it has power with the switch in the run position, if it does hook it up to the coil, take some pics it makes things easy.
Did this problem just start, or like this when you got car? You might be able to find a wiring diagram at a town central library, or online. Shop here and online for books on basic automotive wiring. Did you do a search here for others with this type of problem? A simple test light will tell you a lot as to where/when you have power and not.
Yeah, I just got the car not too long ago and am finally finding some time to work on it. It has been sitting for around a year. The person I bought it off of said they drove it to their house and parked it, that is why I figured something has gone bad. I don't know what's going on with the red wire, looks like they just replaced an old one. Random wiring under the dash.
I took a test light to it, and I have power at all the circled spots. I have looked for the balast resistor and haven't been able to find it. Any idea on where it would be? Under the dash or under the hood?
its possible your car dosent have one. you had pwr at those spots with key in run position or cranking? if run, check the wire inside the dist between the points and the connection for the coil. it may be coming apart when the vac advance moves the breaker plate on start up.
At the run postion. The connection on the point near the two circles is definantly loose and won't really tighten up. I will get a new cable tomorrow then and see what happens. I pulled the cable out of the points and put the test light in it. I got nothing.
This is the Ford diagram but it may help as the ignition circuit should be the same. The symptoms you describe: runs while cranking but won't run with ignition on are usually caused by a break in the wire with the resistor ( or a miswire at the switch) as others have mentioned
What about running a jumper wire from the battery to the coil? Is the coil any good? Is it actually running with the starter engaged, or just turning over making the sounds of running with the key engaged? Is there spark? Is there fuel getting into the carb? Sounds to me like its either getting a weak spark or starving for fuel. I'd try to shoot/pour some gas down the carb and see if it'll bust off - But keep a fire extinguisher handy in case it backfires and lights up. I know with a lawnmower if you've got a weak spark you can pull the plug wire back a bit to make the spark 'jump' father to increase the spark. Dunno (and don't care) how it works, but it does. Might be somthing to try with your coil wire. Does the cap and rotor ****on have excess corrosion on them? Are the plug wires worth a ****? Are the plugs any good? All things that are minor to check and see if they'll solve the problem. But... I'd try the fuel in the carb and the jumper wire thing. Just something to note though - if you do run a jumper wire to the coil, it won't shut off from the key! You'll have to disconnect the wire to kill it.
The ballast resistor is USUALLY located on the firewall for ford products like your Edsel. It is a white hunk of ceramic maybe 3-4 inches long and maybe an inch square with a wire lead going in one end and another out the other end. You can by-p*** it to check if it is working by putting a jumper from the battery hot side to the end of the ballast on the side going to the coil not from the side going to the ignition switch. If it now runs with the jumper in place (you will have to pull the jumper to shut the engine off) just get a new ballast. They are there only to reduce the current going to the points so they last longer. DAM he ^^^ beat me by a bit curses slow typing fingers.
So, I jumped a wire from the coil to the battery and it ran. Went and bought a new ballast resistor and she now runs like a champ! The resistor was located on the firewall and the reason I could not find it before, was because it was not white. Thanks to everyone who helped! Cesare
Now, what I would do if *I* were you is to go back to the parts store and pick up a DUAL resistor for a Chrysler, or for the Ford (if one is available.) I would then mount it to the firewall, and use just the top pair or the bottom pair of prongs. The beauty of it is if this ever happens to you again, you should just be able to switch the wires to the second set of prongs and you're back on the road in less than 60 seconds! $10 plus shipping on ebay, dunno what they'll run in the parts store.
Now that is a fine piece of advice ^^. Amazing how much "Creative automotive thinking" goes on here. Great tip.
Carefull with prolonged use of the Chrysler unit as I think they have two different resistances and using the wrong side for a prolonged time will burn out points. Easier to just join the wires if the resistor ****s out and get a new one ASAP. Good thought though.
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