Pulled my intake, its ugly..am I screwed??

aawww ********! clean it best you can, use a vacuum inside, get it running and change the oil after a 1000 miles and enjoy.

 

Sludge usually builds up in this area due to the heat generated from the exhaust crossover. On later models, it will build up in the vacinity of the EGR valve.

 

Parrifin isn't it good stuff.........

 

A day later and I have 30 great posts.. I love this place.. and all of you guys too.. I appreciate it. I've cleaned all the sludge out with my shop vac and s****er, and have a friend who offered to steam the heads for me. The pan is pulled already and it'll get a new oil pump, thanks for all the extra tips.. I have alot more confidence this thing will run, and run good at that.
Thanks
Anthony

 

If it was my motor i would definatley pull off the heads and kind clean up the **** a little bit and just to be safe i would pull off the pan too to just kinda see what going on. You might wanna clean out the oil pickuptube a little bit too. Do a compression test to see if your rings are good too and then just kinda take it from there

 

When you buy the oil pump, get a steel sleeve for the drive rod. The stock sleeve is plastic and brittle. You're probably going to find it's 50 cents cheaper to buy a "performance" oil pump drive rod that's already got the steel sleeve attached.

You've come this far......RV cams are cheap and really wake up an engine. I'd personally want to remove the pushrods and sight thru them for sludge obstruction......which means you're going to have to readjust the valves anyway.

Yeah, I know, where do you stop before it becomes a full rebuild? But with a small block chevy, you just shouldn't stop til the cam has been replaced. If the engine has a design flaw, camshaft durability is it. Plus it's the cheapest horsepower you'll find.

Good luck!

 

My father(engine machist for 35+ years) gets to fix ALOT of rebuilds like this every year he calls them the "RIDGE REAMER SUPREMES". If you want it to be reliable and not leak, tear it down and do it properly. You might get lucky and only have to deglaze the block and put it back together. I would put a new cam,lifters,timing chain,oil pump/drive,and gaskets at minimum if it was mine

 

Good point... After re-reading my post, I hope you [or anyone else] didn't get the impression that a harbor freight press and a roll of emory cloth is in any way a subs***ute for a good machine shop, and I was not implying that anyone should go into business rebuilding engines in this fashion.

What I was trying to say is that there is a lot of stuff you can do at home. And if I was faced with the decision of paying a machine shop $700 to simply deglaze a worn, but otherwise decent core-rebuilder, I'd just do it myself using those tools.

 

I would pull the heads just to check and drop the oil pan to. Clean it a little and run it if you dont see anything major. I would do first oil change after 500 miles and dump some marvel in it.

 

Well, if its turning over. clean the valley out, compression test it, make sure its getting oil pressure, and try to fire it. thats what I'd do. Its just a small block. It will be fine, no need to tear the whole damn thing apart. UNLESS it dont run

 

Until he drives it 200 miles and it starts knocking then he wasted all his time

 

You beat me to it. I quit using Pennzoil years ago for this reason.

 

Or he could drive it 20,000 miles, who knows. You wont really waist much time by trying to get it going as is. In fact you might save a couple bucks.

 

I bet you could drive it to Alberta, and back.........twice, no problems!

 

You said the magic words. "I just want it to run". Then do like some have said, clean the gunk out of the valley, put the intake back on, throw it on an old irrigation stand with a radiator,change the oil and filter and start it!! put some mufflers on it so you can hear it. If it has good oil press and doesn't smoke for more than a few minutes , Run it!! JMO

 

well if there is rust in the cylinders then i would pull the heads, clean out the rust before i rolled it over, even if you pull the heads you may be able to reuse the head gaskets just by painting them, its been done before, if that was my engine thats what i would do, if i was going to sell it i would tell whoever was buying it what i had done.

 

I dont know much about Alberta , but I bet I could get it to run 120 ALL.....DAY.....LONG......ALL DAY!