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How to put a GM tilt column in a 55 Chevy?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Edelbroke, Apr 23, 2009.

  1. Edelbroke
    Joined: Dec 12, 2008
    Posts: 770

    Edelbroke
    BANNED

    I have the steering column disasembled on my 55 chev down to the shaft itself. Does the shaft come out of the steering box? I have an early 80's GM tilt truck column that I want to put in, Do I have to cut the shaft and put a joint on to connect to the column? any info on this would be great.
     
  2. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 8,662

    Special Ed
    Member

    Shaft does not come out of the box. Are you keeping all steering components stock, and simply replacing the column?
     
  3. Edelbroke
    Joined: Dec 12, 2008
    Posts: 770

    Edelbroke
    BANNED

    I want to use the whole truck column and try to use my stock 55 steering wheel, I have a Painless wiring harness already in the car, the hard part here is how to connect the new column to the steering box
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 60,043

    squirrel
    Member

    The steering shaft is part of the steering gear, some guys cut it off to install a different column. I suggest you take the steering box apart, cut the shaft, and mill flats on it to use a double-D coupling, so it is strong enough that it won't break. I've seen it done by just putting a 1/4" bolt thru the shaft, and it's pretty scary for an engineer to see that kind of stuff.
     
  5. Edelbroke
    Joined: Dec 12, 2008
    Posts: 770

    Edelbroke
    BANNED

    Alrighty, thank you
     
  6. Rich Rogers
    Joined: Apr 8, 2006
    Posts: 2,018

    Rich Rogers
    Member

    I cut the shaft after measuring the new column and deciding where you want the steering wheel.One joint welded to each shaft end and joined there. Been on my 55 for 3 1/2 years now without a problem
     
  7. crustorod
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 9

    crustorod
    Member
    from wisconsin

    you should s**** the whole idea and trade it for a 52 dodge wayfarer!
     
  8. Chevy Gasser
    Joined: Jan 23, 2007
    Posts: 720

    Chevy Gasser
    Member

    I know you only want to replace the shaft, and yes it is part of the box. Now is the time to upgrade to the newer ps, such as a 605 or better yet, one of the newer ones. Then, connect it through a rag joint. Yes, a little more work but so much nicer.
     
  9. Rich Rogers
    Joined: Apr 8, 2006
    Posts: 2,018

    Rich Rogers
    Member

    wonder what he's smokin:rolleyes:
     
  10. Rich Rogers
    Joined: Apr 8, 2006
    Posts: 2,018

    Rich Rogers
    Member

    You don't need to do all that. My 55 steers fine as long as you're not trying to go 3 mph. Granted power steering is nice but these are hotrods I think:rolleyes: and we don't need no stinking power steering:D
     
  11. Power steering means less power to the rear wheels!

    I want to upgrade my '50 to a '54 box and picked up a '63 Riviera column - not a tilt but it has that cool chrome piece on the top - I figured I'd have to do the same thing, get a U-joint somewhere and cut the shaft down low and install the U-joint on it. Thinking about welding up a '69 Olds U-joint just because I have one here rather than spend money on a double-D u-joint, since the splines will fit the end of the Riv shaft on the other side.
     
  12. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 8,662

    Special Ed
    Member

    In some states it is illegal to weld on steering shafts. Machine flats onto your ends and connect with D/D u-joints, as previously suggested.
     
  13. Edelbroke
    Joined: Dec 12, 2008
    Posts: 770

    Edelbroke
    BANNED

    This is what i'll do, Big car show/swap meet this weekend in jefferson wi, i'll look for some D/D u-joints there
     
  14. nitrohonkey
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,332

    nitrohonkey
    Member

    The only "tilt" upgrade a 55 needs is a "tilt front-end"!!!
     
  15. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 25,239

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I did kind of the opposite with my 49. kept the stock column and tossed the box. I "milled" my original shaft for a DD U-joint with a 4" grinder.

    grind-fit-grind-fit-grind-fit. little bit at a time until it fits perfect.

    not familiar with the 55 box, but i would imagine you will need some sort of bearing in the stub of the column to hold the shaft from moving. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
     
  16. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    Guys Im having the same problem with my 55 chev. Some one left about two inches of the original steering shaft coming out of the steering box and threw a 63 buick tilt colum in it. Im having trouble connecting the two together. Does any one have some pics of some ideas. I want to be safe And the two last people that did the job. Its just not right. I want to do it right and I need help.
     
  17. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,522

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Look at the diameter of the shaft coming out of the steering box. If it is larger then it can be turned down to 3/4 " and machined with 2 flats for a proper Double D connection.

    Then find out what the spline- shaft size is on the column.
    If it is a common size you can buy an appropriate connection coupling or if needed a U joint from someone like Borgeson.
     
  19. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,845

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    A picture would help figure out what would make up your connection. Sometimes a double universal is a better fit than a single, if the two are close, or need more alignment than a single universal has.
     
  20. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    I know I have a double d coming out of the steering column and my steering box.
     
  21. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,152

    chopped
    Member

    Anyone see where the guy drills a 3/4 hole in a 2x4, cuts off enough to simulate a dd and grinds the shaft ?
     
  22. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,434

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    That was a "tech" post on here somewhere.....
     
  23. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    any pics of all this good stuff?
     
  24. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    Is there away I can use a rag joint some how?
     
  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,522

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

  26. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,845

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    If you have a DD at both ends now, then why not just put a DD shaft between them to connect them? I'm confused now?
     
  27. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

    I will have to get you guys some pics.
     
  28. As far as I know a rag joint requires a splined coupling. In a '55 Chevy it could be done by changing to a GM 605 box and using a stock bottom shaft on the column - some of them are collaspable and maybe you could adjust for length there, I know late van columns they come right apart in that section (and have two u-joints on them already too). Vans up to '96 use the same old standard GM column with a key swtich and so on. Tilt is common in conversion vans.
     
  29. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,514

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Early truck/ van col. Fit the 55-6 best. 67-72 truck. 67 to 83-4 van. Small mast jacket. Rag joint is a good idea to cut out the road noise and slight viberation coming up the col.
     
  30. Last edited: Aug 2, 2013

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