what to wipe car with before painting?

When I started painting that was all that I used as a cleaner, wash it down with 3812, tack and paint. It has been a long time since I've shot a enamel job, so I really don't remember what I used for reducer. I'll still use 3812 if I'm out of w&g.

One of my friends worked at this one shop and got a car prepped for paint (enamel), the owner handed him $0.25 to run up to the gas station for a gallon of gas to use as reducer. Back in the old days, they used almost anything for everything.

 

what about isopropyl rubbing alcohol , would that be anygood?

 

I use 50/50, isopropyl and water, always works for me and it's cheap.

 

can U use it straight,or does it have to be mixed with water----I think they sell it in 70% and 91% ??

 

DX 330 before work. DX 320 before paint. jw

 

Personally, I like the SPI Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover first (no solvents), followed by Glasurit 360-4 Metal Cleaner-I've seen the Glasurit Metal Cleaner turn a clean rag Black with contaminants no matter which W&G Remover I've tried-the Metal is squeaky clean (and don't forget to scuff w/180 before you clean)-

 

i agree!!! same method i have used for 12 years! Glass Plus works great too... mix 3/4 glass cleaner and 1/4 alcohol... (isopropyl not drinking kind)

 

I mix it , saw it in done in local body shop, long time ago,never tried it straight ?

 

You may want to ask this question to the paint manufacturer you plan to use. They have a tech line and likely a recommendation. I use House of Kolor paint, and they recommend their water-based, post-sanding cleaner. I've always used it, always had good results. If you use a random cleaner and have problems, the paint manufacturer will point the finger at whatever you're using if it's not theirs.

 

I'm guesing that most of the respondants don't paint for a living.

There's a major cost involved if you have to redo the paint due to bad prep.

Windex, Tide, etc, may be OK if you have to redo the job at your own expense and time.


In a real shop where you have to be right the first time, we use an actual wax and grease remover.

Whatever.

 

This is not going to be a high dollar paint job. The car was painted with JD Blitz Black in my garage at home by my son 2 years ago. It still looks fine except that since it was painted I changed the motor,cut the firewall ,new wiring,etc,etc. So I have scratched it ,dropped wrenches on it ETC,etc. So we are going to repaint it with the same paint---just scuff it down and paint---I just don't want to use some kind of solvent to wipe it down with that is going to come back and bite me

 

Don't know what your deffinition is of a real shop, but at the shop I work at, for the past 20-30 years, glass cleaner has worked great and no redues due to contamination, or lack of a good prep job. But then again, here in Indy, we don't have to worry about harsh cow shit floating in the air into our very real shops. Then i can see using some more volitile cleaner solutions.
If you get the results you're looking for in the end, then who gives a hoot how you do the things you do.
There's nothing like bodymen and painters getting into a pissing contest over nothing. I find it comical, that's why I usually don't post on any paint/bodywork threads or else I would put up a reply like this... sorry for the rant. The painter didn't show up today for work, and I had to fill in painting three cars today. I guess that's nothing compared to a 'real' shop

 

Painters and bodymen pissing contest ,that's funny. For some reason that quarrel never ends does it.

Since I usually paint around 100 cars a month at my shop, does that qualify as a real shop? (lol)

 

The only thing worse than painters are guitar players. Know how many guitar players it takes to change a light bulb? One to change the bulb and thirty to stand around and tell anyone who'll listen how they could do it better...

 

Windex works aswell, I know this from experience.

1shot

 

Tooshay

1shot

 

Aaaahhh C'mon now, were not "all" that bad.

 

YEAH! Damnit, we'r enot "all" bad lol.

 

another great product is standox silicone remover regular not the loc voc stuff, not sure of the part # but i swear by the stuff. i use it before any repairs to preclean and before paint is applied. i,ve tried final wash and a couple others but this stuff seems to work best for me. if i'm shooting synthol enamel over aged paint i sometimes clean with the reducer for the paint itself, it will show any problem areas immediately and these can be addressed by a more aggressive cleaner then. mind you this is mostly on farm equipment. just my .02

 

well it is synthetic enamel I'm using----so what your'e saying is that I can use the thinner that I will use in the paint to do the final wipedown with? Is that right?

 

Heheh, I know just try to add some lighter comments. But lots of painters are so "my way is the only way" that it's downright hilarious. I'm no wizard, but I bumble through and am happy with the results. With the painting, that is. My guitar playing still blows...

 

Prime Wash for a final wash.. it evaporates quick.. and does not soak in like wax and grease remover.. sprayed on with a pump bottle . and wipe it off.. keep clean towels on hand.. no sense in spreading around what you washed off another panel.. you can wash by hand also with one rag.... just keep your drying rags at arms length, again you dont want to spread the dirt or dust from one panel to the next.... Dont use thinner..You will have problems.. it Might swell what ever is underneath.. it soaks it quick.. it might look dry on top.. but underneath is another thing..

 

i like 901, tack rags and a good blow gun, be sure to blow every crevice every which way, because if you don't blow it out, chances are your spray gun will.

 

Another good window cleaner way (and I only know this because someone MADE me use it instead of just buying windex) is mixing a little bit of apple cider vinegar, ina spray bottle of water.
Works just as good as any windex or anything else man.

1shot

 

I use areosol glass cleaner or 409 it works great for me.

 

I always noticed my basecoat would pucker if I used vinegar.

 

Lippy,, maybe the vinagar has a acid content.. it seeps in.. break it down or mix with water.. and lightly mist it on the panel.. dont soak it. and dry it off right away..you have to give it lots of time to dry..it may look dry on the out side.. but it will be still damp .all primers and fillers absorb moisture..

 

Yeah lippy, I sprayed a coat ona panel to early, and it left a hill and valley kind of effect....and was you making cracks about my panel work you smartass????