I'm getting ready to get all the items together to wire my car. I have never wired a car and am pretty much clueless when it comes to electrical stuff. Anyway, awhile back I got a Ron Francis catalog and in the tech section there was a big thing about the danger of running a fusable link. They reccomend a maxi fuse instead. However most every other harness I see uses a fusable link. I am planning on using a Rebel harness and getting a install kit from www.madelectrical.com My question is what is the real deal? Should I get a Maxi fuse or stay with the fusable link? Thanks, Todd
Fuse is probably better; probably more accurate and certainly easier to change if you get a big overload for some reason. I put a circuit breaker in series with the maxifuse in my coupe just to be a belt and suspenders kind of guy. Others may have different thoughts.
your maxi fuse should be as close to the source as possible,like the battery,then run your individual fuse blocks off of it. if you run a rear mounted battery,should have a maxi fuse right off of the battery or one of the high amp breakers, you can get them in a high enough current to operate the starter. this protects the entire line running through the car. also if you have a rear mount battery need one inline with the alternator or generator, if you had a main cable short, the battery fuse would blow but the alternator would continue to put current into the short.
I wire a ton of cars, and always use the fuse. it is inline between the starter and fuse box in the main power line.
Go junk yarding for older Mercruiser equipped boats. Many use dual 50AMP fuses and/or dual 50AMP breakers. One for the start circuit, the other for the rest of the vehicle.
Definately use a maxi-fuse - it's the evolution of the PITA fusable link. Incidentally, one of my customers blew the maxi-fuse on his newly wired high dollar pro touring car this Monday while endlessly cranking his non-firing big block. Saves $$ in the long run (and is easier to diagnose). vic
Fusible links were used for years in OEM and were for protecting main batt feed to the igntion switch , charging system, and fuse block. There is nothing wrong with using links for protection. The OEM's went with maxi fuses when they were developed for packaging and a more accurate protection and ease of replacing. You really need to know what your electrical loads are the maxi is protecting and size the fuse to 135 % of that load for temp variations and avoiding nusiance fuse trips. Make sure the wire gage is proper to the fuse. Either one is OK its a matter of which is easier for you to do.
Fuse links blow slower than Maxi fuses. Thats why they're still used occasionally. I would go with the Maxi fuse for the ease of service.
In case it's not obvious, you don't run a Maxi fuse in between the starter and the battery. The Maxi fuse is for everything else. It's best to have it mounted close to the battery. You need to know what the maximum amount of current you might need to go through the Maxifuse to be able to pick out the right fuse, and then the wire that goes from the Maxifuse to your wiring panel or to a power distribution stud has to be able to handle the current that it would take to blow the Maxifuse. You should know how much your alternator puts out, and whether you have any big high current devices like electric fans or a big car stereo so you can figure out what current rating you want the fuse to be, and what size wiring to use to and from it. I like to run the 12V+ to a master kill switch, then the other terminal of the kill switch has one fat welding wire that goes to the starter, and a 6 gauge lead going a short distance to the Maxifuse.
Run the maxi fuse... what happens if you burn up the fusable link out on the road somewhere....? Do you carry tools to cut and wire in a new one... maxi fuse , just carry a spare fuse and if you have a problem it will be easy to change....
My 96 Chevy truck had some battery cable wiring problems due to it's previous owner. He had hacked the cables with your good old one-size-fits-none replacement piece of **** cable ends. I had to replace the alternator lead with 8 gauge wire and a maxi fuse receptacle, 85 amp fuse in line. My fuse choice may be too high amperage, but the alternator is a 110 amp unit.
That's right. Take that fusible link and drive a stake thru it and set it on fire. I hate those things Maxi fuse on everything.
Until it becomes national headline news that all the late model Fords with the millions of fusible links have all burnt to the ground, I'll keep on using them. JMO Maybe I missed that consumer protection show?
Tugmaster, Not to highjack your thread, but you mention Mad Electrical. I've bought alot of components from Mark at Mad and have several of his How to pamphlets and learned alot from them, but about a year ago I couldn't get him on the phone anymore, and no response to a written order I sent, even though the website is up. Have you had any comunication with him recently??
Technically, Gregg, that would be about one half of one car. Sorry, I didn't add a damn thing to this thread.
you can get 12 volt breakers to protect the starter circuit, I may be paranoid, but having a heavy gauge battery cable running through my car with no short protection, is a recipe for disaster, if you don't want to run one that big, use a maxi fuse,then use one of those heavy solonoids they use for golf carts to byp*** the maxifuse on start. you can get them in 12 volts. if the thing accidentally trips, the breaker,you can reset it with a push. I have a little fuse breaker thats rated at 150 amps, right off of the battery,actually in the battery box, but it's running a four cyl with a geared starter, so thats plenty of amperage. you can get them in higher amps. I tell people to protect that rear battery, because i've seen car fires started due to a primary battery cable short.
I use breakers. much easer to reset. And thy don't cost to reset. And when you blow one of these big guys it cost to replace.
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