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Weighing all the options - 35 Ford engine replacement

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by coolstuff, Apr 22, 2009.

  1. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,307

    missysdad1
    Member

    X2 on this.

    If you are a relative newcomer to hot rod building I'd second the suggestion that you take the simple bolt-in route on your first project.

    A nice little Chevy will give you much better performance than a flathead and mounts/adaptors abound both new and used.

    A low-torque early 283 won't overtax the early Ford driveline as long as you use restraint in your driving technique. And, if you look around you can probably find a good used one for free!

    Rebuild the stock steering and switch to later Ford "juice brakes" and you're on the road...cheap and easy.

    Just go easy on the "loud pedal"...and keep a few rear axle keys in the glove box. Words of experience...

    Just my $.02 :)
     
  2. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,101

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    My 36 had a 265 sbc in 59...with a 56 chevy rear end with 36 ford sping hangers mounted to the original 36 rear spring.
    Same rear end set up I have now.
     
  3. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 6,067

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    How about a baby hemi?????????????????
     
  4. coolstuff
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,686

    coolstuff
    Member
    from Bettendorf

    no hemi - sorry - I am most likely going to go with Hydraulic brakes - a buddy of mine has the full set up and he never used it so we are working out a trade on those so it wont be a cost issue.......

    I am going to take out this orig. motor and see how much work it needs - then go from there........I really hope to just get the original fired up - but I dont have a good feeling about it..............
     
  5. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Just a heads up on the 8ba.
    I’m putting one in my 35 right now and Im finding that none of the 8ba pans (I have them all) will give me sufficient oil pan to tie rod clearance. Im going to notch my truck pan to make it work.
    If you don’t plan on lowering its probably not a problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2009
  6. I'd peddle that ***** like Fred Flintstone before I'd put a SBC in it .. just me ..
     
  7. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    59 will go in much easier than an 8BA, not just pan but front accessory length will be better.
    There was just a long discussion, maybe a week ago, on putting in a Chevy without cutting in a '36.
     
    Graffiti coupe likes this.
  8. hellonwheels
    Joined: Jan 16, 2007
    Posts: 779

    hellonwheels
    Member
    from Bastrop


    WTF??!!?? I can't believe you said it either. Too bad you did...
     
  9. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    49 - 54 CADILLAC will bolt right in. Starter in on correct side. That is the right side. Same as the flathead. Will not interfere with steering. Just a flat adapter plate will bolt it up to your ******. And if you don't plan to race it will be strong enough. Your hardest problem is a flywheel and I see them frequently on ebay.$2to$300bucks. You'll be the hit of every rod run and double or tripple the flathead H.P.
     
  10. Like the ultra-rare "Ford Experimental OHV" in my '38 Ford pickup (thinly disguised 307 Chevy painted Ford flathead green), Ford emblems and "Experimental OHV" on the valve covers. Complete with **** and bull story (including an intake manifold designed by Ford engineer Ed L. Brock). I've had people swallow the story hook, line, and sinker.
     
  11. teddyp
    Joined: May 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,195

    teddyp
    Member

    Sbc is still your best chioce
     
  12. duste01
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,209

    duste01
    Member

    I'd sell you my 21 stud to get a 24 stud.
     
  13. coolstuff
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,686

    coolstuff
    Member
    from Bettendorf

    hey - thanks for that info 296

    long term is to lower it - but that is YEARS down the road.......
     
  14. T-Time
    Joined: Jan 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,627

    T-Time
    Member
    from USA


    OK. I take it back. I must have been drinking the Kool-Aid that day. :)
     
  15. hiboy32
    Joined: Nov 7, 2001
    Posts: 2,797

    hiboy32
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    I vote for a flatty. the original flatty might not be the best choice, but I would try to see if you can get it running. I think that it looks like a good start.
     
  16. I see somebody finally set the record straight re the starter on an early Cad.:)

    Does everything else fit OK on the Cad to '35 swap? Firewall? I know the pan should clear everything.
     

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