How about putting the rear window on an electric rear window track. You know, the kind that rolls straight up and down? That way you have a bunch of options and you didn't have to cut the rear window. Just a thought. Michael
I have ground them down with even 20 disk, not pretty but will come off in chunks, must be totally smooth on edge or might crack over time on endent. Save your sanity,call charlie at cl***ic gl***,860 489-1550, he does it from your pattern and ups to your front door, broke 5 shields on the aztec, he did the deed first shot old school. That idea, get the shield 1st, get 2 roofs, save quartering the top, unless you like welding.
that is just what i did,you got it,its not as hard as it sounds,fakeing the new rubber and stainless is the hardest
Anyone have a pic of this? My dad chopped my 56 and is no longer here to ask if he did this. My windshield cracked and I want to fix and issues before I replace it.
Hey, I've looked at a bunch of late 50s F100s & GM chopped pick ups over the years and all of the ones with broken windshields share a common theme: Either the factory pinch weld wasn't preserved ( save for the section removed) keeping the form the same, or the cut down gl*** was glued in with urethane/ silcone . The pinchweld MUST support the gl*** in a like and kind manner, all around the frame. The gasket serves not only to seal out the weather, but as a shock absorber! If the gl*** is held in some areas with glue, and floats in the gasket in some areas, one can expect the gl*** to crack! You may have to releave cut the cowl at the A posts bases, spred them with a porta power, and reweld them, to get 100% contact with gl***/gasket/pinchweld. S****ey Devils C.C. "Spending A Nation Into Generational Debt Is Not An Act Of Comp***ion!"
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