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*** 1936 ford acid dip?????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SOCAL1, May 4, 2009.

  1. Hey guys, Should the 36 get acid dipped or media blast it?? Not really sure which way to go. I know that if it gets dipped..that acid needs to cleaned out really good or it will bite me in the ass when it comes time to paint. Any advice. Thanks

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  2. safari-wagon
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,457

    safari-wagon
    Member

    I'm not a fan of dipping, I've seen too many doors & such rot thru quickly, because the acid didn't get neutralized.
    The only bad thing that can happen with blasting is that you might leave a few sand trails on your maiden voyage.
    (my $0.02)
     
  3. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    just find a good sandblaster that wont warp all your metal...

    matt
     
  4. 39delux
    Joined: Nov 1, 2002
    Posts: 332

    39delux
    Member

    I've never had a whole body dipped but I've done a few fenders. It looks like new stamped metal when you get it back and has a coating that keeps it from rusting if you let it set naked for awhile (indoors). Hidden areas and wood will hold the acid though. I'd remove all the wood from the body before dipping and also run a lot of water or even baking soda water throughout the body when I got it home to nuetralize any acid that wasn't rinsed out well. Getting the inside of the pillars and like areas coated again would be the hardest part. But those are the same areas that you can't reach with a blaster.

    Tom
     
  5. Is it still around $1000-$1500 for blasting?
     
  6. Find a blaster. There's a good 'light' media guy in Hemet. Very economical. Plastic and walnut shell.
     
  7. garth slater
    Joined: Apr 17, 2008
    Posts: 271

    garth slater
    Member
    from Melbourne

    I am a fan of media blasting. I find that it works fast and effective. just make sure you find someone with a good rep to do the work and your sweet. Get primer on it asap once blasted to avoid rust!
     
  8. Streetwerkz
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 718

    Streetwerkz
    Member

    I say media cleaning.... I'm not biased at all however
     
  9. Streetwerkz
    Joined: Oct 1, 2008
    Posts: 718

    Streetwerkz
    Member

    usually unless there's a ton paint, and mud on it
     
  10. 3windowford
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 166

    3windowford
    Member
    from Edison NJ

    I would rather have it blasted. I feel it's better than having it dipped.
     
  11. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,218

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    Go with media, not sand. Seems to leave the metal a lot smoother. Just make sure the blaster knows what he's doing so he doesn't leave you with more problems than you started with.
     
  12. sounds like media is the way to go. Thanks guys.
     
  13. bardahl1
    Joined: Oct 16, 2005
    Posts: 353

    bardahl1
    Member

    not to swim upstream here, but my good friend and master metal man Mike Roberts was adament that we not blast our projects before doing the metal work. he only dips the stuff he works on, says blasting work hardens the metal.

    spray it down with gibbs when done and it will be fine indoors.

    probably wouldn't be an issue unless you were going to go all steel. We got them dipped in Santa Ana, forgot the name of the place but its off Brookhurst and Edinger I believe.
     

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  14. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    I always like the idea of dipping for the sake of making sure every nook and cranny is stripped, however I hear horror stories about people getting their car dipped and not getting much in return. I guess that could have been a sign though... I had mine media blasted.

    Is that a '36 with '35 front fenders and lights or a '35 with a '36 hood on it???
     
  15. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    We dip all our stuff.

    Since the hood is the wrong color, I'd say 35 with a '36 hood. ;)
     
  16. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    :D:D;) LOL!

    Well, if that's the stock running gear under there, it's DEFINITELY not a 36.
     
  17. Its my buddies ride. Yes its a 35 not a 36. Thanks again for all the info.
    He just found it sitting in riverside ca. its complete with the original flatty.
     
  18. I'd soda blast it (basically baking soda).

    Not as agressive on the metal as sand, or walnut shells, and it will dissolve and rinse out with water...

    I have never done either, but known folks who have done both and the soda blasting is their preference. My 2 cents.
     
  19. mpls|cafe|racer
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,323

    mpls|cafe|racer
    BANNED

    He's right. A lot of people mistakenly think that it causes too much heat, but it doesn't.

    It's like hammering one side of the panel with tons of tiny little hammers. Makes that side hardened, and causes pulling and tucking from it. :)
     
  20. ntxcustoms
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 908

    ntxcustoms
    Member
    from dfw

    We just finished a 37 chevy with no problems. The metal is still easy to work...We use very fine media at low pressure...just need to find a good blasting company...
     
  21. greasy50chevy
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 547

    greasy50chevy
    Member

    i would blast it
     
  22. Not to get picky, but the material that comes out of the end of the blast nozzle is the media. Sand, soda, beads, shells, they're all media. Since there are, now, so many choices people started using the term "media blasting" instead of the outdated "sand blasting".
     
  23. mpls|cafe|racer
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,323

    mpls|cafe|racer
    BANNED

    True, though it's pretty well accepted that when someone refers to "media blasting" instead of "sand blasting" they are usually inferring silica.

    Just a thought.
     
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    HEY! Who let you back on here!?? ;);):D
     
  25. mpls|cafe|racer
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,323

    mpls|cafe|racer
    BANNED

    Don't step, foo!
     
  26. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    LOL! :p
     
  27. 51Gringo
    Joined: Jul 22, 2006
    Posts: 652

    51Gringo
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    I have dealt with all forms of stripping, blasting with sand does create problems, because of the pressure necessary to remove material builds friction, and its not fun to repair. Chemical seems to work better if you can afford it, plus you get a nice smooth surface in stead of a porous finish that requires some sanding to get it smooth which = material thickness removal.
     
  28. Lono
    Joined: May 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,656

    Lono
    Member

    A rodder here named Duke is making a Vinegar bath for his 28 and 34 Ford parts.
    Yes, I said VINEGAR. It eats off rust and in some cases paint too. Wash it down with soda and water and its neutralized.
    Our friend did the same trick on his 28 roadster... and it worked cats ass! Save some coin and to it with the fenders, doors and running boards and send in the cabin.
     

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