Hey guys, Should the 36 get acid dipped or media blast it?? Not really sure which way to go. I know that if it gets dipped..that acid needs to cleaned out really good or it will bite me in the ass when it comes time to paint. Any advice. Thanks
I'm not a fan of dipping, I've seen too many doors & such rot thru quickly, because the acid didn't get neutralized. The only bad thing that can happen with blasting is that you might leave a few sand trails on your maiden voyage. (my $0.02)
I've never had a whole body dipped but I've done a few fenders. It looks like new stamped metal when you get it back and has a coating that keeps it from rusting if you let it set naked for awhile (indoors). Hidden areas and wood will hold the acid though. I'd remove all the wood from the body before dipping and also run a lot of water or even baking soda water throughout the body when I got it home to nuetralize any acid that wasn't rinsed out well. Getting the inside of the pillars and like areas coated again would be the hardest part. But those are the same areas that you can't reach with a blaster. Tom
Find a blaster. There's a good 'light' media guy in Hemet. Very economical. Plastic and walnut shell.
I am a fan of media blasting. I find that it works fast and effective. just make sure you find someone with a good rep to do the work and your sweet. Get primer on it asap once blasted to avoid rust!
Go with media, not sand. Seems to leave the metal a lot smoother. Just make sure the blaster knows what he's doing so he doesn't leave you with more problems than you started with.
not to swim upstream here, but my good friend and master metal man Mike Roberts was adament that we not blast our projects before doing the metal work. he only dips the stuff he works on, says blasting work hardens the metal. spray it down with gibbs when done and it will be fine indoors. probably wouldn't be an issue unless you were going to go all steel. We got them dipped in Santa Ana, forgot the name of the place but its off Brookhurst and Edinger I believe.
I always like the idea of dipping for the sake of making sure every nook and cranny is stripped, however I hear horror stories about people getting their car dipped and not getting much in return. I guess that could have been a sign though... I had mine media blasted. Is that a '36 with '35 front fenders and lights or a '35 with a '36 hood on it???
Its my buddies ride. Yes its a 35 not a 36. Thanks again for all the info. He just found it sitting in riverside ca. its complete with the original flatty.
I'd soda blast it (basically baking soda). Not as agressive on the metal as sand, or walnut shells, and it will dissolve and rinse out with water... I have never done either, but known folks who have done both and the soda blasting is their preference. My 2 cents.
He's right. A lot of people mistakenly think that it causes too much heat, but it doesn't. It's like hammering one side of the panel with tons of tiny little hammers. Makes that side hardened, and causes pulling and tucking from it.
We just finished a 37 chevy with no problems. The metal is still easy to work...We use very fine media at low pressure...just need to find a good blasting company...
Not to get picky, but the material that comes out of the end of the blast nozzle is the media. Sand, soda, beads, shells, they're all media. Since there are, now, so many choices people started using the term "media blasting" instead of the outdated "sand blasting".
True, though it's pretty well accepted that when someone refers to "media blasting" instead of "sand blasting" they are usually inferring silica. Just a thought.
Here is my 36 that I am working on and had it blasted and the metal is just fine. Make sure they use low pressure. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300942
I have dealt with all forms of stripping, blasting with sand does create problems, because of the pressure necessary to remove material builds friction, and its not fun to repair. Chemical seems to work better if you can afford it, plus you get a nice smooth surface in stead of a porous finish that requires some sanding to get it smooth which = material thickness removal.
A rodder here named Duke is making a Vinegar bath for his 28 and 34 Ford parts. Yes, I said VINEGAR. It eats off rust and in some cases paint too. Wash it down with soda and water and its neutralized. Our friend did the same trick on his 28 roadster... and it worked cats ass! Save some coin and to it with the fenders, doors and running boards and send in the cabin.